Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

An adjustment problem? I know it works, it cancels cruise, and prevents engine start as expected.

If it cancels cruise it may not be the problem, on my 02 wagon it did the same rpm blip but it would not cancel cruise. When I went to replace the switch I found it was broken.

I don't use cruise that often, so I will double check that it works on my way home.

hi,...i did my swap with excellent results thanxx to all the people involved in the hard work i have a question for all my TDI club members...is there anyone in the metro Atlanta area that can do a recode on my computer for me? i have a 2001 jetta i need it coded from auto to manual i do not have the money for a VAG-COM cable as yet... the swap hit my finances a little hard. please contact me anytime 503-309-7582. ill drive a couple hundres miles if i have to. thanxx in advance

Hi to All !! (TDI Community). I'm finally there, in that great company of completing my 5 spd. swap today. "1st things 1st". My thanks go out to a long list of whom I consider experts on this project,(1st and foremost, Alphaseinor ) as I have read this entire thread. Well, I did speed read through the 1.8T,and BEW questions and answers. Fabulous work on putting this all together guys. "True Pioneers" , as has been said many times before. I basically followed Boertje's file to the letter on electrical work especially, as my '03 Jetta's wires corresponded perfectly with his all the way. I purchased an '03 Jetta donor car with 195,000mi totaled on the R/F corner for $1,200 ( Yeah, I know I scored big time there! Looked, and Waited and Waited, and finally trailered one home from 100mi away.) R/Axle was destroyed,( but I had a spare 2.0 standard R/S) I used "everything else" including the shortened brake pedal, but not the coolant glow plugs. I don't mind saying that I believe, that's the only way to go. But I've been in the auto wrecking business most of my life, used all donor cars, all of the time. Anyway, everything went as good as it could. I'm happy to say, I have it all, reverse lights, speedo, cruise and cancel as it should be. Had to do the hammer mod,which was to be expected. Boertje's file right on again as I had a .05 IQ that I bumped up to a 4.8-5 If that turns out to be a little high I'll go back and bump it down to 4. Drove it around town about 35mi today, smiling all the way, can't tell you all how good it feels, but you already know if you've done it. Smooth as a baby's ass !! And lot's more get up and go!! Purchased all new items from Aaron (Boraparts.com,Great business man BTW.) VR6 Silent clutch kit, and all new seals and parts for the "forbidden zone". I had 252,000mi on at removal of my 01M, which I'm sure I don't have to tell anyone what that was like!! I was getting 40mpg highway when I could keep the torque convertor locked-up, but that wasn't easy in hills. Incidentally, I did discover that with my Scan Guage II, I could clear the PO811 code on the fly and lock the convertor back up without missing a beat. And that sure beat the hell out of pulling over, resetting and resuming again. I think that's what took me so long to start the swap.

Sorry for such a BIG 1st post and all that rambling, only happens when I'm excited. And I AM EXCITED !!!!

Thanks Again to all for paving the way, for me to continue to love my TDI.
I'll let you know about mpg improvements.

John LoGuirato

John, great that you got it all going well! Enjoy your increased mileage and the new pleasure with driving a stick.

alphaseinor said:

Not a problem

tdi swap

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Hey alphasenior, I swapped out my automatic this last weekend, but its still kinda half way on being finalized. The car drives and I did not do any wiring yet, what Ive done was just slip the 53 relay in the 175 slot and use it as that.

Now yesterday I went with VCDS to program the ECU to manual, and the engine now runs really rough at Idle, its as if it's misfiring (if it were a gas engine) and idle RPM rose to about 1100 from previous setting (auto) of 900. today im going to try lower the idle with vcds and maybe the fuel IQ. Also before I did the ECU reprogram I had a check engine on, it was for a valve (but i dont remember which one, "N......") I erased it and it did not come back, as well as with automatic coding on ECU the engine idles ok - a little rough when cold.

Do you have any other suggestions?

Yes, get the howto in my sig and look at the wiring section. That needs to be done. Your ground for the starter is now going through your backup light circuit. Do not change the idle. By recoding to manual, your IQ will now be something really low like 0.2 or in that neighborhood which will give you a very erratic idle and in fact, it can run like crap. This is also covered in the how to. Do the hammer mod and set to something like 3-4 and see how that works.
Good luck!

boertje said:

Yes, get the howto in my sig and look at the wiring section. That needs to be done. Your ground for the starter is now going through your backup light circuit. Do not change the idle. By recoding to manual, your IQ will now be something really low like 0.2 or in that neighborhood which will give you a very erratic idle and in fact, it can run like crap. This is also covered in the how to. Do the hammer mod and set to something like 3-4 and see how that works.
Good luck!

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thanks

yeah I saw that yesterday, I went with VCDS and saw that the IQ was jumping from .2~2.4 then I increased the IQ and the problem went away. Kinda weird I was expecting the Coding of the ECU to take care of IQ. But the highest amount i was able to achieve with the VCDS was 2.0IQ i've read that a lot of people get at least between 3-5 (5 being maxed out)

at the same time I lowered the idle cuz it was too high as well.

so everything is good now . I actually have a 2.0 transmission in mine >.< the "price was right" paid 250$ for a whole car with all the **** in it... going to get the TDI transmission when i save up some money. still better than what I had before with automatic which was Gear 1 and Gear 2 (both slipping) 3 and 4 were gone

First of all thank you to all who have contributed in this thread I completed my swap this past weekend thanks to alphasenior's guide.

My only problem is wen i tested this up on jack stands I can not get cruise to set? I followed the guide to the extent with the process except I did not completely remove the tcm. Could that be the problem with the cruise not working? I did recode the ecm to manual but it doesn't want to let me set the cruise and also the press brake light is on and the automatic gear indicator on the dash has all of the gears lit up?


Any wisdom on this is appreciated.

Thanks

remove the tcm, try again

chevyboy91188 said:

First of all thank you to all who have contributed in this thread I completed my swap this past weekend thanks to alphasenior's guide.

My only problem is wen i tested this up on jack stands I can not get cruise to set? I followed the guide to the extent with the process except I did not completely remove the tcm. Could that be the problem with the cruise not working? I did recode the ecm to manual but it doesn't want to let me set the cruise and also the press brake light is on and the automatic gear indicator on the dash has all of the gears lit up?


Any wisdom on this is appreciated.

Thanks

Click to expand...

you can check cruise control inputs like clutch switch and brake switch with vagcom.

As I wire up a conversion, I hook the wire up with aligator clips, then I put vagcom on and verify the inputs work, then I solder and heat shrink the wires in "permanantly".

Edit: I just noticed you said, "on jackstands". Cruise may not work in that manner. You better get that thing out on the road to be sure.

alphaseinor said:

remove the tcm, try again

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I will unplug it and try again

CoolAirVw said:

you can check cruise control inputs like clutch switch and brake switch with vagcom.

As I wire up a conversion, I hook the wire up with aligator clips, then I put vagcom on and verify the inputs work, then I solder and heat shrink the wires in "permanantly".

Edit: I just noticed you said, "on jackstands". Cruise may not work in that manner. You better get that thing out on the road to be sure.

Click to expand...

it had a water leak (like most of these jettas seem to) so the interior isnt in it, but I think I am going to put the driver seat in while I wait for the carpet to dry from its cleaning and go for a true test run. I'll update once I do

took it out on the street, drives great, but all the cruise and lights problems remained, didn't want to unplug the tcu because I was testing for leaks with the hose, I'll pull the tcu and try it again.

Also, seems to have a big lope at idle after stopping when warm, can you adjust idle with vagcom?

You must unplug the TCU after doing the wiring and vag-com recode. You also need to check your IQ after the recode since your IQ might be as low as 0.3 or less and needs to be reset via hammer mod. A setting of 3-5 is a good place to start.

I think I will finally have time this evening to pull the plug on the tcu and take a test drive again, then I will check the IQ and see if I can get it to smooth out.

Any suggestions on what to do with the tcu plug? I imagine I should wrap it with multiple layers of electrical tape to keep water out of it?

chevyboy91188 said:

I think I will finally have time this evening to pull the plug on the tcu and take a test drive again, then I will check the IQ and see if I can get it to smooth out.

Any suggestions on what to do with the tcu plug? I imagine I should wrap it with multiple layers of electrical tape to keep water out of it?

Click to expand...

Put it in a ziplock and seal it closed with duct tape.

I wrap it with friction tape, never had a problem

ok unplugged tcu lights for pedal and gears went away, moved the IQ until reading 3.0 was reading 1.

But still no cruise, how do you check the inputs at the ecu using vagcom? I'm googling it but have had no luck?

you check measuring block #006

see this page for what each 0 and 1 means

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Checking_Cruise_Control_using_Measuring_Values

My guess is it's not getting +12v to the correct pin

this is what i see with no feet on the pedals and pushing either pedal changes nothing

yeah, you are not getting +12v to the ECU.

To troubleshoot
Make sure you are getting +12v to one side of the lower switch. if you don't then you don't have the wiring right from the black/green wire

Check for voltage at the other side of the switch when the pedal is up. If you don't have voltage to both sides, it could be a bad switch.

Check for a continuity between pins only with the pedal up, as soon as the pedal is down it should be open.

Check for voltage at the ecu pin itself, if you don't have voltage at that pin then there is something wrong between the pedal and the ECU.

Last thing I see a LOT of people who put the pin in on the wrong side of the connector (it will be counting down on the other side). Sometimes the pin comes out if it doesn't have enough slack in the wire, or if the lock isn't holding.

pin is in the correct slot i just verified it is the forth pin from the bottom left corner labeled 63, it is clicked into its slot still, it has continuity to the pedal i checked that too, but it seems to not be getting power on the other side. and it is in fact connected to the black and green wire. where is the black and green wires source of power at i think i need to check there?

Just check at the switch, with the pedal up, you should have +12v on both sides of the connector on the lower clutch pedal switch

Did you rewire the connection at the TCU? There should be two wires cut at the TCU and spliced together in order to get +12v to the ECU.

i followed your guide to the T i have connectivity from the black clutch switch all the way to the pin 66 on the ecm i check and double checked i am not getting any power from the balck/green wire that is supposed to have 12v do you know where its power supply point is??

it has to come from the harness side of the connection, not the relay side... Just making sure that's how you have it.

originally from pin 5, it comes from bus B163 which is fuse S7 (10A) it also should feed the K142 light (IIRC the K142 light is in the center console, and turns the "foot" light on the shifter).

oh gosh dont tell me that means i have to have my console in the car for it to work lol

yes i have it connected to the harness side (ps i've done 3 ls1 conversions making my own harnesses im usually very good with wiring, this is my first time trying to read vw diagrams though mitchels gm diagrams were much easier to read)

do you know if s7 is battery or switched power?

switched

I was using a meter that wasn't mine and in didn't notice the dc setting only measured to 2v so I saw that and I am getting 12v on the green black wire side, my computer with vagcom died so I threw in the towel for the night as i was gettingbthe cable out I noticed the brake pedal switch had fallen out....so I plugged it back in and ran out for a test drive but still no cruise, well have to wait until Sunday before I can get the computer back on the and try again I think, feeling a little defeated tonight :\