Misfire running on 3 cylinders

you had a late model, mine was a '51

mine was 1960

The house I grew up in back in Ireland, circa 1962 maybe.
Volkswagen beetle and Morris Minor were the main cars of the day.
Of course you had the Hillman Avenger and Hunter with Vauxhall on occasion.
My first car was a Mini Clubman that my brother and I bought for 15 pound.
What fun pumping those brakes. But who wanted to stop when you're 15/16.
I can certainly relate to those Lucas electrical gremlins. Great idea with the glove on distributor cap. Many a wet Irish morning we had a no start.
Remove distributor o dry, check points for spark, listen for whirr of electrical petrol pump.
Pour a cup of gas into carburetor and hopefully start.
Then we graduated to 1600 GT cortina and 1725 sunbeam rapier.
Simple times. Sorry for trip down memory lane. Now back to regularly scheduled
Program.

I got an Avenger as a rental in London. what a piece of poop. Cortinas were fun to drive, especially the cream colored ones with the green trim...

Ok so I got the cylinder Honed with nice cross hatch.



Quick question, would it do any harm to run the hone in the other cylinders to clean up and refresh the hatch?
I'm awaiting the new rings and shells.

This hone works great.

I would think the rings are seated in the other three cylinders so I would leave them alone. Don't try to fix what's not broke.

Ya don't mess with the other cylinders unless you're pulling the pistons out and changing the rings

that is correct, don't touch the other cyls

now you have your new dingle berry hone, you now want to hone everything. you can now retire that other hone

thundershorts said:

now you have your new dingle berry hone, you now want to hone everything. you can now retire that other hone

Click to expand...

Have to admit I was tempted to hit the other cylinders but I had to restrain myself
The rings haven't shown up. Should I assemble the manifolds onto head and put it back together in one piece.
Or just install the head and bolt up manifold and turbo afterward?
I know it would be easier handling the head without the added weight to get it aligned and torqued.
Then I have to get those pesky manifold screws.

Personally, I would install the head alone and then peice everything together after that. It does go together much easier than it came apart. Buy yourself a nice set of extended reach ball end allen sockets as these will make life much easier.

You have to take care to place the head over the locating dowels without damaging the gasket surface of the head. You want this to be as easy as possible so no extra weight will leave you money ahead....literally.

More often than not I do it like that as well.. The ALH cars I'll sometimes put them on fully assembled but the PD's seem to go together better piece by piece.

The UPS man showed up with Rings And shells.

Couple of questions,
The bearings for rod have upper and lower. How can you tell which is which.
I didn't take out of wrapper yet to determine if marked or if there is a noticable size
Difference.


Also on the rings it gives a clear description/ diagram of where they go. But the rings from what I remember also have to be installed with top and bottom orientation.

They do have a stamp and from what I can decipher it says top?

A is upper and B is lower.
Other German engines use that same system for some reason!
The top bearings have a hidden layer of brass in them.

Thanks Phil.

The stainless looking one actually feels heavier, could be my imagination.



I just noticed that 701-A. & 701 B is stamped on the bottom edge. Definitely need your bifocals to see.

Sure thats brass not copper? trpical tri metal bearing is steel/copper/babbit(lead alloy)

look carefully at the rings, they should have some pretty small writing on them that says "top" right near the end gap.. I think it's showing in the one picture..

thundershorts said:

Sure thats brass not copper? trpical tri metal bearing is steel/copper/babbit(lead alloy)

Click to expand...

I have seen copper used in old north american ford engines but the german ones lately are using yellow brass or bronze.
I am talking different brands and types from Germany
Some diesel and some gas.
Not sure about VW though!

Thanks Jason,
Yea the rings have top stamped on there. I didn't see it as plainly on the bottom ring.
The one with the spring?

The bearings are stamped also A & B

Oil rings (bottom groove, two thin rings, with spring) often have no top/bottom stamp and can go either way. Not sure of the tdi, never got that deep into one.

Ok its time to get this back on its feet. I have been involved in other things including a trip to Ireland and this has taken a back seat.
I had a 5 speed Octavia/skoda.
Basically a passat in a different skin. I had booked an Opel Insignia and was hoping for a look at the diesel offered in Europe.
But as in car rental bookings the fine print said "or similar". So I had the "or similar"

The Skoda brand have made a comeback from back in the day. The old joke about a heated rear window on a Skoda, keeps your hands warm when pushing it, seems to have dissipated.

These are definitely a fun car to drive in stick and will be my next adventure. I have a cousin in the business, whom I met during Family gathering and he's going to scout the "Breakers" by him.
S back to the task at hand.
I have the piston installed new with new rings etc. I got the pan back and the bottom end all buttoned up.
I did have a small "ball breaking" moment when that rear bolt on pan that goes up by the flywheel dropped off the socket and fell into a cavity in the bellhousing.
I had to get creative with small magnet and a wire to fish it out.
Now the scary part of timing this and getting the head on. I have the cam lock tool for timing and would like to know the sequence to bet this in sync.
Do i put the#1 piston (nearest belt) TDC and if so should the corresponding valve be open on the head.
Anyone know of a "idiots guide" to timing this

myturbodiesel dot com has a very detailed how-to on timing the passat bhw. Watch all of the videos more than once, read more than once and you should be fine. Do you already have the cylinder head on? IF not, back the number one piston off top dead center so all of the pistons are sitting down in their holes, install the head and move the cam into position and lock it into place. Now you are ready to bring the number one piston back up to tdc, go slowly and lock the crank into position. Once you have both the cam lock and the crank lock secured it is a matter of simply installing the belt, idler, and tensioner in the correct order outlined in the how-to. The how-to illustrates how to properly set the tensioner, how much slack should be present on the belt during each step and once you have everything set, remove the locks and very carefully rotate the engine clockwise making sure to stop if you feel anything out of the norm. Once you have rotated the engine a few times re-install the crank lock. If you did it right you should also be able to install the cam lock...you may have to bump the cam back or forth just a hair with a wrench on the cam bolt but otherwise the cam lock should line up.

Hope this helps, now go over to the how-to section and make it happen.

Thanks for pep talk and advice Newlite. I don't have the head on as yet. I was just getting used to having clean fingernails again.
I'm replacing the thermostat and housing first as I believe this is the pertinent thing to do when head is off and somewhat easier access. I do have all the parts but I have to get my head back in the game
I will give those videos a watch and figure it out.

Does anyone know which way these gaskets go in exhaust manifold?
The old one was a one piece job but the new ones are individual with a smooth metal side and something like a textured material on the other.
I searched the web with varying opinions. Mainly the metal/smooth side to head but conflicting thoughts.

you have the old gasket to go by as to which side goes where.

Thunder, the old gasket is all metal.
The new one has a smooth side and what looks like a carborundum side.

Just curious. From what I've researched the smoothside goes toward head and the
Textured side towaed exaust.
Something to do with heat transfer.

smooth metal side will typically go towards the manifold..

Make sure the port lines up with the hole in the gaskets.. If in doubt, just put the old one back on..

Thanks Jason, I appreciate it.
On the cylinder head gasket itself, is there a topside or bottomside?

I don't see any markings for up etc.
The only noticeable difference is in the holes and teardrop holes on oil filter side.

Ok I figured it out. Its the right way in the picture as the gasket is in three layers and the portion with holes sits flat on head.
Even though nothing flows through those holes as they are partially overhanging the head.

Ya you have it right in the pictures.. all of the holes will only line up one way..