89 Jetta Turbo Diesel Crank no start after engine swap

Title basically says it all. I've bled the injector lines from the pump and it cranks over and wants to fire but doesnt start despite anything I do. I'm at a loss as this is my first diesel and could use some tips as go what is wrong or things to try.

If you've confirmed the injectors are getting fuel, it might be worthwhile to check compression. What's the history of the new-to-you motor? Is the physical timing verified?

STDOUBT said:

If you've confirmed the injectors are getting fuel, it might be worthwhile to check compression. What's the history of the new-to-you motor? Is the physical timing verified?

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Planning on doing compression check tonight. Engine apparently has 50-60000km on it. Timing is next up because I'm not sure if it's in time

It will be very helpful for you to have access to the proper dial indicator which is used in the delivery side of the pump. Do you know anyone who would have a Bentley manual?

You better have the cam and crank properly timed at least. There is lots of info on the internet for these old dinosaurs. Also helpful would be the gtd forum.....which is vwdiesel.net

Lots of reading on that forum for you.

So i've been in and out of the dealership and with me journeyman buddy trying to figure this thing out. Compression test has yet to be completed but another issue I was informed of might be the injector pump. Anyone have a way to test if its working? I currently have the shut-off solenoid jumped to the battery as the actual connection was spliced out. I don't have any of the tools required to do the timing so that will take time to do, so im hoping that if it's just the pump failing than it will fire with a new one. I don't want to just dump money into it until I know for sure it's what I need.

Make sure the glow plugs work. You can put a volt meter probe to the wire harness that connects to the glow plugs and another probe to ground, turn the key to on, and you should see battery voltage for a few seconds.

Also take the glow plugs out and touch the connector end to +12V and the body to ground, and you should see them get red hot in a second or two.

I'll make sure to test the glow plugs. Quick update from the guys I bought it from and its condition. When the new engine was put in, it ran. Ran well for a little bit but smoked out like you were spraying sea foam. After that it didnt start again. Doesnt sound very good to me. On top of that the IP doesnt seem to be firing at all when I took the HPF lines off the side going to the injectors. All this seems to be adding up to something but I'm new to this and absolutely lost.

Nastyman99 said:

I'll make sure to test the glow plugs. Quick update from the guys I bought it from and its condition. When the new engine was put in, it ran. Ran well for a little bit but smoked out like you were spraying sea foam. After that it didnt start again. Doesnt sound very good to me. On top of that the IP doesnt seem to be firing at all when I took the HPF lines off the side going to the injectors. All this seems to be adding up to something but I'm new to this and absolutely lost.

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Note that the smoke was white and then sputtered to black when it died. May be important

Nastyman99 said:

So i've been in and out of the dealership and with me journeyman buddy trying to figure this thing out. Compression test has yet to be completed but another issue I was informed of might be the injector pump. Anyone have a way to test if its working? I currently have the shut-off solenoid jumped to the battery as the actual connection was spliced out. I don't have any of the tools required to do the timing so that will take time to do, so im hoping that if it's just the pump failing than it will fire with a new one. I don't want to just dump money into it until I know for sure it's what I need.

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Timing tools are a lot cheaper than an injection pump. Without the tools you won't be able to properly install a new pump anyhow.

jackfolstam said:

Timing tools are a lot cheaper than an injection pump. Without the tools you won't be able to properly install a new pump anyhow.

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Well I'll pick some up here in my travels. I pulled the HPF lines off and have no fuel coming out of the pump. I'm going to pull the line off at the other end of the pump and see if its airlocks and go from there.

Ok. So it's been a while since I've touched the Jetta. I haven't picked up any timing tools yet. I have however found some wires that are disconnected and cut up that seem to run some sensors. I found it located on the drivers side on top of the transmission with 3 wires coming off the top. 2 are black and 1 is yellow, on the part it has these numbers. 171 972 509 and 3718/2.7. I'm not sure what it is but it was chopped off the wiring harness and simply sitting in its spot. In the same vicinity on the side of the block drivers side has a small blue wire with a white stripe that mounts on a circular metal post. Does anyone know what these are? I cant afford the bentley manual till next month and nothing comes up online as to what it may control. Any help would be appreciated.

Try http://vwdiesel.net/forum/

Yup, that's a good suggestion.

OP: perhaps you know this already, but you have an IDI (Indirect Diesel Injection) engine, the pre-cursor to the TDI (Turbo Direct Injection) engines this forum focuses on. The link Andy's posted is for a forum that focuses on your engine type primarily.

Your engine has a fully-mechanical injection pump with throttle cable control (no computers or other sensors to worry about) so the good news is that in order to run all the engine needs is 12V to the fuel shutoff solenoid (sparkplug-looking thing in the center of the driver's side of the injection pump where the high pressure lines to the injectors come out).

In order to start (particularly in the middle of an Alberta winter) you need:

- a strong battery and starter that can spin the engine well
- at least three working glowplugs... ideally all four. You have to disconnect the copper buss bar to test them individually for current draw (8-10 amps each), and it's a tight fit, particularly the one behind the pump.
- proper timing... set using a dial indicator and special pump adapter. 0.90mm- 1mm is a good guideline, but there are specs specific to your model year.
- good compression... at least 350 psi for winter starting is a good guideline
- injectors that pop and mist properly
- an injection pump capable of drawing fuel all the way from the tank, thru the filter, and then into the engine (the one pump does it all)
- a fuel filter that flows freely

So, lots of stuff to check, and unfortunately fewer and fewer mechanics have the tools and know-how. That's where the forum and the service manual will help.

One last suggestion: resist the urge to use (or let a mechanic use) starter fluid. On your engine the fuel actually burns inside a alloy chamber insert that's fitted into the head, and the detonative effects of ether have been known to bust 'em loose... which then grenades the engine as it jams against a piston.

Ditto everything Vince posted with emphasis on not to use of ether!


The way I set timing before I got the tools was to align the V in the black support bracket with the mark ^ on the IP.......... once I found it, I'd tweak it by ear to the sweet spot. There is also a mark on the backside of the IP Sprocket Cog.

Rotating the top of the IP toward the engine (counter-clockwise facing IP from passenger fender side) advances timing.... the opposite retards timing.

Below, you can see the ^ on the pump body (reference to the red mark and straight under the 3)



Below, you can see the mark on the backside of the IP sprocket cog.