BakoTDI
Veteran Member
So i have upgraded (some) nozzles and a tune in it. Would that be enough to consider knowing EGTs? Or are we talking bigger turbo?
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What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
So i have upgraded (some) nozzles and a tune in it. Would that be enough to consider knowing EGTs? Or are we talking bigger turbo?
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Caddy 16v
Veteran Member
How big are your nozzles and what stage tune?
Back when I still had the stock turbo and .230 nozzles with a stage 3 tune it ran higher temperatures than stage 5 and 17/22 turbo now.
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BakoTDI
Veteran Member
Stage 3 tune for the Firad 502 (0.216) injectors
Stock turbo
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Fix_Until_Broke
Top Post Dawg
On a stock car, not much, it'll rarely go over 1000F. On a modified car it's a nice to know, particularly if you're pulling a trailer or long term/high load conditions (driving 120 MPH for example).
For short highway stints, on-ramp bursts, passing someone, etc, as long as you don't have a solar eclipse of smoke behind you, you won't run into much issues with EGT causing any engine damage in that short amount of time.
Sustained 2000 RPM, high load operation with nozzles too small can result in low/no smoke, high EGT's and two piece pistons. Below was run at 1400-1600F sustained for several hours with no smoke.
BakoTDI
Veteran Member
Also, with EGR still installed, where would the probe for EGT be installed? I’ve seen how guys install it on the block off plate after the EGR is deleted. Being in Cali, I’m not supposed to be without EGR.
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Caddy 16v
Veteran Member
Ok it might be beneficial but you would probably be fine without one. I ran the stage 3 and 230s for over a year without an EGT gauge and nothing happened but if you hammer on it all the time I'd get one. But it involves drilling and tapping your exhaust manifold before the turbo, so a little bit involved, can be done without removing the turbo but a bit of a pain in the rear. [emoji6]
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Caddy 16v
Veteran Member
You can fit the sensor with the EGR still intact, it's a bit tight but doable. You basically drill on the "R" from Garrett that's on your manifold.
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IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
On track days with a pretty aggressively tuned car I would peg my EGT gauge at 1600 on every straight. It was important to know to back off or reduce fueling to keep from cooking my turbo. But the only time it's been a concern on the street is when towing.
BakoTDI
Veteran Member
Great info guys! Thanks for the insight. Sounds like I’ll be fine for now although gauges make the inside of the car look a tad more attractive [emoji28]
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gmenounos
Vendor
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Watertown, MA, USA
- TDI
- '99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
My wife broke a rusty front spring in the wagon so installed new Suplex 2-blue 2-white VR6 springs and 034 Motorsport track density strut mounts. Unfortunately didn't have time to deal with the super rusty STR.T struts. I really wish Koni did a better job painting those.
Judson
Veteran Member
Changed the oil, took a sample and sent it off for analysis (first time at 235k miles). I am losing coolant steadily now and not sure how. No white smoke.
Have a glow plug code. Having already tested the plugs (all good), cleaned the connection at the harness. I have the nice upgraded VW-style connector from IDParts. This code has been going in for a long time and won’t clear, but the car starts fine...
Have a glow plug code. Having already tested the plugs (all good), cleaned the connection at the harness. I have the nice upgraded VW-style connector from IDParts. This code has been going in for a long time and won’t clear, but the car starts fine...
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Only a handful of places that the coolant can be leaking from if it's not going into your oil.
If you've already checked the obvious, pull the timing belt cover and look around the waterpump for it leaking down there. The WP seals can fail.
Judson
Veteran Member
Hey KrashDH -
Yeah, what's weird is last year the timing belt and water pump were changed. So, I can't imagine it's that.
I guess there's a hose that goes into the block on the bottom, passenger's side, that some people have mentioned. Maybe that's it.
But I'll wait until the oil analysis comes back before throwing her into the shop. I need to have other work done as well anyway.
Yeah, what's weird is last year the timing belt and water pump were changed. So, I can't imagine it's that.
I guess there's a hose that goes into the block on the bottom, passenger's side, that some people have mentioned. Maybe that's it.
But I'll wait until the oil analysis comes back before throwing her into the shop. I need to have other work done as well anyway.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
I thought that too, until 100k TB kit WP seal failed at 60k. Granted it lasted 2 years instead of 1. There's a few sneaker spots it can leak, check the t-stat housing, and then there is a hard pipe that enters below and behind that housing. I had that hard pipe leak, the seal was just trashed. No more leaks after that though, it was the final seal in the coolant system that I had not replaced. All was good after.
I thought I took some pictures yesterday but guess not, but I added parking brake return springs on the rear calipers, and I added some sequential LED side turn makers for some jazzzzzz...
Judson
Veteran Member
Well, the weird thing for my leak it that it doesn't at all at idle, at a stop, or in the garage. This is why I'm thinking it might be going out the tailpipe.
Caddy 16v
Veteran Member
Have you checked the o-ring where the coolant flange meets the head by the coolant glow plugs? It's quite hard to spot if it leaks there but can be a significant amount.
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Judson
Veteran Member
I have not checked that, but will ! Thanks.
Andyinchville1
Veteran Member
I sent my oil sample to Blackstone lab today .... looking forward to getting results .... I paid for the standard test along with the TBN test ... I went about 16200 miles on the oil change using rotella t6 5w40 synthetic oil.
Hoping they come back with good news and maybe I can go 20K for an oil change just to keep things even.
I did have to add a little oil to keep it full ... the oil was about a 1/16 of an inch below the low part of the oil operating zone .... since I was pouring the oils from a partially full one gallon jug does anybody know how much oil I used to go from 1/16 low to full?
Hoping they come back with good news and maybe I can go 20K for an oil change just to keep things even.
I did have to add a little oil to keep it full ... the oil was about a 1/16 of an inch below the low part of the oil operating zone .... since I was pouring the oils from a partially full one gallon jug does anybody know how much oil I used to go from 1/16 low to full?
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
It's not much, I would say maybe a quart or just shy.
Every 5k I check my oil and I'm usually halfway down the full mark and it takes about half a quart to get er back up.
RexNICO
Veteran Member
If it comes back with good results and you consider a 20k change, would you change the filter during the 20k?
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
This diesel oil we use has been proven by analysis to actually increase efficacy well beyond 10k. Filters are different, I'd want a new one at 10k, but with improved materials, who knows. They will still collect small amounts of particulate.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
I'm in the 10k boat for oil and filter changes.
Same with the Cummins. No reason to push it even if you can, oil changes are cheap insurance.
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
No argument from me, I do all my maintenance by the book as well.
And I should know better than to even broach this topic!
And I should know better than to even broach this topic!
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Just change it out when you add blinker fluid
Cptcrnch
Veteran Member
New front brake pads and rotors (went with the ID Parts kit), guide pins, and caps and sleeves. The car no longer shakes like a scared Chihuahua when braking! I think the previous owner went with cheap Chinese Replacement Auto Parts stuff and the car ate them for lunch very quickly lol. Hopefully the quality stuff for ID Parts lasts a lot longer.
Also changed the oil and replaced the filter.
Also changed the oil and replaced the filter.
JDSwan87
Black Swamp Thing
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2014
- Location
- Michigan near Toledo
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI, 5 speed Lagoon Blue Metallic(sold); 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon auto
Renewed tags today on Stella. Requested a different vanity plate, getting rid of HOAXWGN and going back to S1PNDZL. Also, secured the Husky liner front mat that was sliding all over with 2 stainless self tappers and 2 rubber o-rings.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
Bought a turbo diesel today, now tagged, insured and the state is sending me
a title. Still have to get a PA safety inspection, there will undoubtedly be a
couple odds and ends to do, parking brake for one, set of tires on the way.
It's a Jeep Liberty CRD, 2.8l with a Garrett turbo, I figure it's MkIV vintage at 2005.
Only fly in the ointment is the automatic tranny.
Dieselling along,,,,,,,,, {)
a title. Still have to get a PA safety inspection, there will undoubtedly be a
couple odds and ends to do, parking brake for one, set of tires on the way.
It's a Jeep Liberty CRD, 2.8l with a Garrett turbo, I figure it's MkIV vintage at 2005.
Only fly in the ointment is the automatic tranny.
Dieselling along,,,,,,,,, {
)Andyinchville1
Veteran Member
I have read that some people Change the filter every 10,000 miles, even if they push oil changes to 20,000 miles.
On the flip side, I have heard that sometimes as filters get dirtier they actually filter better. So unless the filter is becoming so restrictive that oil pressure is affected. I would imagine that It's okay to run the oil filter longer.
Of course I say it's okay to maybe to run 20,000 miles on an oil filter but that assumes you do enough miles fast enough that the oil filter won't start getting old and falling apart..... I'm not sure how long and oil filter can last physically before maybe it just starts deteriorating from old age.
Personally, I think if my oil change interval can safely be extended to 20,000 miles I would probably leave the filter in Until the oil change Since I do that fairly quickly ...
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
Personally, I think if my oil change interval can safely be extended to 20,000 miles I would probably leave the filter in Until the oil change Since I do that fairly quickly ...
Nope. Change it out at 10,000. Your oil will actually perform better for around 5,000-7,000 miles afterwards.
Today I replaced the burnt-out bumper side marker bulbs on the '01 (shamefully unsure how long they were like that!)
Nope. Change it out at 10,000. Your oil will actually perform better for around 5,000-7,000 miles afterwards.
Today I replaced the burnt-out bumper side marker bulbs on the '01 (shamefully unsure how long they were like that!)