It was sealed up good and I found a piece of metal that may have been a failed dmf...it was buried in sludge
Thanks! I happen to have a New set of nozzles that have been in box on the shelf for about 7 years or more. I harvested the copper washer out of them. I read a procedure of certain steps and then tapping the top of the body with a "1lbs hammer from 6-8 inch drop" Looks like i have a seal, no bubbles that I can see.
I pulled injectors from my 2000 with 318k...that was a real pain...I used the EGR cooler vent hose and a vacuum to suck the loose stuff and blue towels and a straight blade screwdriver to finish cleaning the bores
With the torque on that bolt, I don't see how you remove or replace it without a proper counterhold tool. I bought the knock-off one from IDParts for $34.95 (https://www.idparts.com/crankshaft-counter-hold-tool-p-6246.html). They sell the VW version for north of $100 but don't know how it could be any better. With the car on jack stands and the wheel off, I attached the counterhold tool at roughly the 8 o'clock position where the end of the handle was against the garage floor. Then used a 12-pt 19mm socket on a Harbor Freight 20-in breaker bar (https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-drive-20-inch-quick-release-breaker-bar-98270.html.
Also, if you're resealing the seal holder to the block, you have to take the pan off. A 2x4 on one of the crank counterweights sure work.
Oh man! So glad you lived to post about it!
The nut that holds the linkage to the motor fell off. Fixed it at work before I left. Nice find on the wheels!Oh man! So glad you lived to post about it!
Today I bought my '03 a set of Avus wheels complete with Toyos with >3/4 tread left on CL for $200. I was really surprised how light they are. Woot!
It was the ride in the back that notified you?New exhaust on IBW.
Apparently I'd blown out the resonator in my 2.5" system and it was getting louder and louder, especially on long drives. I was going to replace the resonator, but one thing lead to another and ended up putting in a new 2" stainless downpipe with no cat and a stock Bosal muffler and tailpipe. Much quieter, and with the improved flow of the 2" pipe (better bend coming out of the turbo and larger flex) I'm hoping there isn't too much of a penalty in flow.
Now I have to remove the 4-motion rear valance and put the stock one back on.
That's something I didn't think of doing; I'm kinda scared to put back on the hose however. It's cracked at the end and I don't want a chunk to fall in and go into either the brake booster or vacuum pump. Just hope it comes in sooner rather than later. I paid $35 for an aftermarket one, how much is the one for the BEW?
If you need a temporary fix that will work (and maybe even a long time) look at Scotch 2288 mastic tape. It WILL seal cracks... You can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot
As I said earlier, 3M electrical tape did the trick.
Just suggesting a better solution is all. You're trying to hold things under 25-30 Hg of vac... Why even risk failure? It's your brakes,which puts other people at risk. Electrical tape is going to fail, hopefully not before the new part arrives