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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old March 4th, 2011, 10:26   #16
Kibbs
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OK so here is my results and an experiment. I replaced a great majority of the hoses, while under the car hooked my mity vac to the actuator and it moves freely, hardly squeeze before it begins moving and appears about 18" to stop.

Next take a reading at the N75 Vac port line measures about 3". Next pull the booster line off and plug the end and take a reading at N75 again 25" + rev the engine and a nice little whistle under the hood so it appears the turbo kicks. A short drive in the parking lot with a couple pops of the throttle and it appears nice and torquey. So I think I have a very badly blown booster I cannot come to any other conclusion.

Now the fix, and where to take it. Doing myself is not in the cards I do not have enough free time, the gear and it is still in the 30's F 0 C in my neck of the woods.

Any other feedback?

Thanks all!
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Old March 4th, 2011, 10:38   #17
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Is it possible the rubber grommet that seals the hard plastic line to the brake booster is bad? You might just want to spend a few dollars and replace it and if that does not work, consider replacing the brake booster.

--Nate
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Old March 4th, 2011, 11:40   #18
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I would think that would be pretty noticeable while under the hood. I can test the area and see if it is leaking I guess. I also want to look a the other end under the white plastic piece inside the car. There was another post where a suggestion was to spray some white lithium grease there to help with a seal. Will attempt both ends.

This has to be pretty severe as I have next to no vacuum to power the remainder of the system and thus regularly get a P1556 Charge Pressure Control-Negative.

Thanks
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Old March 5th, 2011, 14:15   #19
rtz
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The factory crimp bands on the short length of hose that goes from the pump to the valve(on it's way to the booster) were loose enough to allow the hose to spin. Also, the metal tube that sticks out of the vacuum pump can be wiggled and spun around. I've got 20" of vacuum with the new worm drive clamps installed on that short piece of hose. Metal tube is still loose though(normal?).
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Old March 5th, 2011, 15:15   #20
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The metal tube being real loose is a sign of a leaking seal.

I usually use JB Kwik Weld if I am in a hurry, or RTV if it can sit for at least 24 hours to seal up that joint. Make sure you have the temperatures for whatever you use to cure properly.

The new ones are solid, the old ones have an elasomeric seal that goes bad.

Just seal it up and I bet your vacuum improves. It usually does.
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Old March 6th, 2011, 13:48   #21
PDJetta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtz View Post
The factory crimp bands on the short length of hose that goes from the pump to the valve(on it's way to the booster) were loose enough to allow the hose to spin. Also, the metal tube that sticks out of the vacuum pump can be wiggled and spun around. I've got 20" of vacuum with the new worm drive clamps installed on that short piece of hose. Metal tube is still loose though(normal?).
That metal tube is crimped into the vacuum pump. Both the tubes on my PD (the tandem pump--fuel feed and vacuum pump in one) and my mother's 2000 Jetta's vacuum pump wiggle and swivel.

Yesterday I replaced the tandem pump (it was leaking fuel) on my '04 and the new pump superceded to a different part number. I noticed that the vacuum nipple for the brake booster line is cast with the pump body and is rigid and does not swivel. This was a Bosch unit from the VW dealer. Maybe the ALH pumps have superceded to to an imroved part without a swivel fitting too. It does appear this could be a vacuum leak source.

--Nate
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Old March 6th, 2011, 14:54   #22
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Yes, replacement ALH vacuum pumps also have a solid nipple. The wobbly fitting is a very common place for a very bad vacuum leak.

If you seal it up, then you do not have to buy a new vacuum pump. The pumps very rarely wear out; it is mostly just the outlet fitting that leaks and causes poor performance.
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Old March 6th, 2011, 16:07   #23
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That is good to know. The one on my mother's 2000 Jetta TDI is pretty loose. Time to get the JB Weld out!

--Nate
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Old April 8th, 2018, 08:41   #24
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Default Vacuum pump seal at metal outlet to brake booster, ALH TDI

Throwing the 1556 charge pressure control negative deviation code on a boosted '03 Golf automatic. When I noticed the oversized hose on that outlet and the spinning nipple, I wondered if the whistle under throttle that I'd been hearing was my pressure leak. Thanks for the help, guys. We're going with the JB Weld solution first.
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Last edited by cumminsfromthecold; April 8th, 2018 at 08:50. Reason: .....
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Old April 19th, 2018, 11:02   #25
djrhetoric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cumminsfromthecold View Post
Throwing the 1556 charge pressure control negative deviation code on a boosted '03 Golf automatic. When I noticed the oversized hose on that outlet and the spinning nipple, I wondered if the whistle under throttle that I'd been hearing was my pressure leak. Thanks for the help, guys. We're going with the JB Weld solution first.
Did that end up being your issue? I'm having the same whistling under throttle and it's causing some fun boost issues.
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Old April 29th, 2018, 09:02   #26
cumminsfromthecold
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Default TDI leaking vac pump and boost

Djrhetoric, the leaking vacuum pump didn't end up being the issue. There's something going on with the car's new oversized turbo. Something not good, I fear.

Keep rollin' rhetorical coal
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