Audi A6 Avant 2.5 V6 TDI Quattro

Any intercooler is good for xxx hp depends on what exterior temp works,ie if it's -20 degrees celsius outside i think even a stock 101pd smic is good for 300+ hp.Intercooler's only role is to make the air coming from the turbo as cold as possible.So to answer your question oem fmic/fmics (some v6 have 2 of them near the fog lights) are good for max. 260-270hp in summer,and 300+ hp in winter .

150mph on the clock, ran out of room for any more, unfortunately sat nav not in but previous experience indicates 145-146 genuine. Suspect N75 (boost control) has gone, big cloud very black smoke at any load under acceleration, same symptoms as happened once before long before any mods. This is where we find out if turbodynamics warranty is any good. Back to the workshop....

150mph have you done anything to the gerabox.at what revs is 150mph ??

6th speed is around 4300 @ 150mph.

Plenty of room till 5000 rpm ,need more power

Gearbox standard
Yes 4300 just below red line bit more to come
5000 rpm maybe, i'll be happy to rev to the red line in 6th, that was my original ambition, any more is bonus. It goes there easily in first 4 gears, don't think i've revved it to 5k in 5th.

sometimes i wish i had a 6 speed box

fjtwelve said:

Gearbox standard
Yes 4300 just below red line bit more to come
5000 rpm maybe, i'll be happy to rev to the red line in 6th, that was my original ambition, any more is bonus. It goes there easily in first 4 gears, don't think i've revved it to 5k in 5th.

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You need more power to the high revs, opposite what your dynosheet was.

Thats pretty impressive. My headgasket blew at 124

what's the oil temerature at that speed 120 C.Is there an option to change just the 6-th gear with longer??

Wasn't N75, had shed another rocker arm. Have lost cap off tappet this time. Also fuel filter empty when removed, and lots of air in fuel line. Will drop sump and change oil and filters to look for cap, but wherever it is think i would know it was a problem by now as have done a high speed 500 miles since the power went. Have also ordered new in tank fuel pump.

Oil temp varies between 90 and 120C when driving hard, water temp never moves from a needles width under 90C.
Maybe you could change the 6th gear ratio but you'd need plenty more power to make it worthwhile. As it is the gearing will give nearly 160mph at the red line, and acceleration beyond 140 is fairly slow.

I still find it unbelievable that Audi could have produced and sold a motor that just spits its rockers out at will

I bought all new OEM hydraulic lifters for mine in the hope that that will make it stay together. If it spits rockers out after all the hard work I've put in to rebuild it I shall be deeply pissed off!

2 rockers out, they are worn and so is the cam. The reason they are coming out is the wear Celtic think. As they were replaced 7000 miles ago they are going back to the garage that carried out the work. We found the cap off the tappet in the sump.

fjtwelve said:

2 rockers out, they are worn and so is the cam. The reason they are coming out is the wear Celtic think. As they were replaced 7000 miles ago they are going back to the garage that carried out the work. We found the cap off the tappet in the sump.

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What oil are you using ? Were the cams genuine or cheap turkish/chinese knock-off's ? I drive me car really hard, the cams are genuine audi ones, no wear at 180k.

Ooo thats a good point. Mine had it's cams done, but by a bunch of cost-cutting f***tards. How do you tell if they're genuine or knock-offs? They have 059 numbers etched in to the sprocket end, but no Audi logos anywhere

Take the rocker cover and check for "059 RS4 and oooo" cast where the piston nr 1 and 2 are... they would be genuine if the marks are there ! If no markings, then they are repro's ! I could show you the difference between genuine cams and repro ones in the morning, when i can look in the back of me van !

Thanks. There's nothing like that on mine. I think this is appropriate:



They look perfect at the moment, but they've only done 20K or so. How long can they be expected to last?

If you use quality expensive synthetic oils, then i would say at least 50k. I use castrol edge 5w30 fully synthetic and apart from the need to top up 500ml of oil or so (freqvent drive at high speeds) between changes, i found the engine really performs as it should ! Its on 180k now, the last 20k been really hard on the engine. I also change oils every 6-8K as i found that hard drives makes it thicker... The same oil stays the same in me other v6 tdi's.

First time I changed mine 165Kkm then again ~255Kkm. 3rd set inside.
5 intake valves were taken out because rockers dropout. I decided to change all...

Some pics.. http://evvk.1g.fi/kuvat/Diudi/venakannetauki/SDC10347.JPG


Edit. You guys are from Uk so what's your opinion about Estas-camshafts? The new ones I have are from Estas.

Thats about 18 months then

It would have been fed Audi's 5W30 synthetic, but I think I might have now reached the point where its cheaper just to break the car for parts and buy something with a proper engine. I'm not putting it back together to then have to spend another £800 on camshafts in a year and a bit

Thanks.

Order from the Germany they are from 600euros the fullset.

Garage has just said they didn't replace all the rockers last Christmas. Only done 7000miles since. AARGH. So old rocker and new cam? Don't throw away your engine yet Mikkijayne. Rocker that came out is badly worn. Haven't seen the cam. Engine is back together minus rocker and drives, so driven back to garage that did the work. Left it with them for the week to investigate. Garage is a Skoda dealer and ordered all the parts through VAG. And you wonder why I drink?

diffas said:

First time I changed mine 165Kkm then again ~255Kkm. 3rd set inside.
5 intake valves were taken out because rockers dropout. I decided to change all...

Some pics.. http://evvk.1g.fi/kuvat/Diudi/venakannetauki/SDC10347.JPG


Edit. You guys are from Uk so what's your opinion about Estas-camshafts? The new ones I have are from Estas.

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Dont know them but, a chap i know bought a full set of cams and lifters from german ebay 2 years ago and gues what, the seller was turkish and he sent us cheap cams wich kept bending valves as they were not set-up right ! Had to rebuild that engine 3 times !!! The locking tools did not work as the valves on the right cyl. head were kissing the pistons... Gave up in the end and fitted a known good engine and kept the other as a spare. Looking at them cams, it shown that they were using genuine gears but the casts were rough and with slimmer cam lobes... I had used the LHSide cylinder head into me missus passat and all good so far. Did not use the lifters as they were very stiff and thats the reason why the engine kept bending valves ! Will pull the rocker covers in the spring to check for wear. Done just 2000 miles though, not enough mileage, methinks !

fjtwelve said:

Garage has just said they didn't replace all the rockers last Christmas. Only done 7000miles since. AARGH. So old rocker and new cam? Don't throw away your engine yet Mikkijayne. Rocker that came out is badly worn. Haven't seen the cam. Engine is back together minus rocker and drives, so driven back to garage that did the work. Left it with them for the week to investigate. Garage is a Skoda dealer and ordered all the parts through VAG. And you wonder why I drink?

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Thats really bad practice ! Even back street garages do rebuild top ends with new lifters and rocker arms- its false economy not to ! How can you mix new/worn lifters with new cams ? I change every spacer, lifter and rocker arm if the cams are out and they show wear.

iirc some of the v6 tdi haves redesigned cams because of this problem.
Anyway high oil temp,120 degrees celsius is really very high numbers for a tdi,i could see huge the difference in power between 90 degrees and 110 on my tdi,that was before i installed an oil cooler,which helped a lot!Now the oil temp doesn't go over 90 degrees no matter what i do.

guys would you say the cam wear is due to low oil pressure (maybe a high pressure pump might help) or due to heat? as i know the v6 has a standard water cooled oil cooler..

no one seems to have come up with a solution for the obvious design flaw in these v6 tdi engines?

what exactly did audi do to the later v6 tdi engines where people are saying that they do not suffer from cam wear? its not just a case of hardened cams is it?

Hi elias, can I ask who installed the turbo to your car and where will you be going for the remap. Is your a4 a quattro?

Reason I ask is I'm looking for someone to fit a turbo on my car in London.

I'm not sure but I think later v6 had roller followers.. I would not let the car idle too much, especially not after a cold startup..

What I've been noticed is that after cold start there is enuff oil on upper intake cams. Checked few times on this winter on -25c.
I have like 20+ startups daily on my job and short distance drive-arounds, so that kills cams for sure and is bad for the car anyway.

Adamss24 - yep, not good practice, its knocked my confidence. We'll see what they do this week
im570rm - Oil temperature - generally it is below 100C in normal use. I like to get it over 100C regularly so any water in the oil will evaporate. Its only when i cane it that the temp rises to anywhere near 120 and it drops back fairly rapidly. Anyway I can't cane it too much more as they'll take my licence away if i get caught again
eliasuk98 - i had the oil pump replaced when the cams were done last year, so i'd like to think the oil pressure is ok. I think my problem is that they didn't replace the old rockers. The dud cams were either a faulty batch or they cocked up the specification, i've read a few theories, but yes the later engines were designed with different heads to solve the problem and cam problems do not appear to affect post 2001 engines. The later replacement cams for this engine had a changed spec and were not supposed to wear but there are a lot of fakes around which has clouded the picture somewhat. If you are going to buy go to VAG. If the price elsewhere seems cheaper then there's probably a reason.
Fez - adamss24 is in London
Rub87 - i have always tried to drive away as soon as possible after starting and drive gently until the engine warms up, if you leave it idling it takes forever. Someone posted somewhere that you should keep above 1400rpm for a healthy oil pressure. On longer trips I have noticed that after 140-150 miles everything really smoothes out.