Inner Ball Joint Replacement

My 2000 Jetta is at 240K and I plan to drive it to 500 so am in ithe process of redoing the front suspension and steering. New Bilstein struts and drivers side ball joint already done by myself. Inner ball joint on drivers side has some play and I can hear a whell bearing so am talking to a local dealer (Not VW as too far away, but reputable) asking him to do the wheelbearings as well as both tie rod assemblies and the passenger ball joint while it is apart. He quotes $750 for the labour,with an allignment. (I have the parts). He says that his books indicate the rack must be removed to change the inner ball joints. My searches in here seem to indicate that it can be done by working through the gap in the lower control arm. Can anyone confirm this ? I had a peek but with the boot on I can't tell what I'm up against. The thread looks 16MM so if there is a nut it would be 24MM ? or do you just use a big 32MM on the inner tie rod and screw the 16MM directly into the rack. I'm prepared to grind down one or two of my wrenches to give him if he can do the job without removing the rack and all the extra labour charges that would be associated. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Inner ball joints???????? if you mean inner tie rod ends, you do not have to remove the rack---done on the car. $750 laabor seems quite high. ball joints and tie rod assemblies are not rocket science and if he tells you the rack needs to come out, then i'm missing something. or i.ve discovered a miraculous way of doing them in the car.
good luck.

Yes, The inner tie rod end of course!! I must have ball joint on the brain. Is there a nut at the rack end or does the knuckle assembly just screw into the rack ? My new assy has a new nut for the outer but just a threaded end on the inner. The slot in the suspension looks so small for a 32mm wrench, but if you did it he should be able to do it too. I'd even grind down one of my old 1 1/4 inch wrenches to get it in there. Looks to me that getting the new boot on might be quite a challenge too. Thanks.

you'll be fine. channel locks can work or you could make a tool. the boot is ok, just have a couple of new worm clamps on hand. more than likely you'll break the old clamps.
I have a special tool to remove the inner tie rod ends (a really long socket).
rich

Thanks again. I'll be discussing a better deal on the labour. I took an extra old 22mm crowsfoot open end I had in my toolbox and ground it out to 1 1/2 inch or 32mm. It fits nicely on the inner square nut and the 3/8 inch extension should lie close to the rod so I think it will do the job. I couldn't quite picture how you made the special socket?

yeah, you'd have to see it to understand. i didn't make it, i purchased it. it's basically a 16" piece of appx 2" diameter pipe with a 1/2" rachet fitting on one end and an oblong hole with a small bolt threaded into it on the other end. slip it over the tie rod end, tighten the bold on the fitting and take a 1/2 drive ratchet and turn it off. Like i said, you'd probably have to see it.
glad you're makeing progress

Well I made a tool as you described. Had a look at the pictures of the commercial tool (in search) but it would be harder to make and this is likely one time only so should do the job. May even give the garage the tool for some labor credit. Thanks again.

Glad to help---but man you're good!!!! you actually figured that out from my crappy description!!!

Northman said:

Well I made a tool as you described.

Click to expand...

Pictures !!! We want Pictures !!!!

Nice going,

Yuri.

Will try pics if it works OK. Why does bentley and other manuals insist the rack has to be removed from the car to change the inners. Could it be that when you have it out of the car you can support the rack better for torquing ?? By the way I can't find the torque values for the inner in search. Does anyone have any further info on this.?