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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2015 +)

VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2015 +) Discussions area for the Mk7 (2015+) Golf and Golf Wagon TDIs based on the MQB (Modularer Querbaukasten) platform.

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Old May 6th, 2019, 08:48   #106
mopower
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My GSW has had a few 'cool' morning starts where it cranks longer than normal, I'm following this thread now. Like all the others, when it is cold out it starts normally, and when its been run in the last few hours it also starts normally.
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Old May 15th, 2019, 03:11   #107
Gonesouth
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Please excuse this post from a newbie, but I've had this problem on my 2015 2.0TDI 150 Jetta.

Symptoms: extended cranking on first start of the day (not necessarily a cold day), additionally sometimes stutters when firing up, and sometimes "farts" immediately after firing up.

Only once created a "pending" P0341 fault code which led me to the "Diagnose Dan VVT valve" video on YouTube and other forums etc.


Was going to throw it back at dealer but checked 12v battery first as thought it may not have grunt to turn over the engine correctly.

Sure enough, battery low on overall charge and only produced 12.2v max after resting overnight. Using a smart charger to replenish battery had no effect. Incidentally, my car has auto stop/start, and the coasting function which increases alternator output.

Bought a new battery (AGM type) and not had the problem in over two weeks.

Original battery was the standard 68Ah Varta which is also found in my Audi A3.

Hope this helps at least some owners to find a fix. Incidentally this issue can be found on Skoda forums too - battery fix was mentioned.

EDIT:
There's an Audi video on Youtube which demonstrates how the VVT mechanism operates in the EA288 1.6 and 2.0 TDI engines.

See here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-4xbGeIr58

Think its about 3mins in.

Last edited by Gonesouth; May 21st, 2019 at 08:15. Reason: Additional info
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Old January 8th, 2020, 05:33   #108
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https://youtu.be/DXvHdmq0reA

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Old January 14th, 2020, 01:12   #109
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I used to have this issue with my 2.0TDI 184HP (live in germany) CUNA aswell.
Got a software update from the dealer which did not help. If anything it seemed to make it worse.
Since turning the key and waiting until all (!) check lights that come on in the dash go off, before actually starting the engine, the car has started right away. 3 weeks so far...
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Old January 14th, 2020, 10:03   #110
andymac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smertrios View Post
Check out "Diagnose Dan" on youtube. He seems to have fixed a similar issue on a GTD - determined it was the Variable Valve Timing (vvt). It appears to be a redesigned replacement part - worth seeing if a VW recall may appy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXvHdmq0reA
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcusku View Post
Nice find! I think this really likely the issue. It would account for it happening intermittently and varying crank times depending on if the valve stuck or not. Maybe it's possible the valve could stick halfway open allowing for some of the oil to come out. I'll have to check to see which one I have, should be able to tell visually. Now the question is how we get the updated part. Should be a warranty issue though I'm not sure I trust the dealer to do the work.
I had the same problem and wanted the stealership to replace the VVT Oil Control valve too since the part numbers were superseded, but they didn't want to do this until I paid for the diagnosis they do fist. No problem, I paid. The next morning (since I told them to check the crank time in the am) they said my battery was dead. I had the battery tested at an independent shop and it was tested good. I guess they didn't test it properly because after replacing the factory battery with a newer higher CCA battery the issue was gone. The factory battery is much smaller and lower CCA Rating than what is capable of being installed, so I used all the space provided in the battery tray and installed the highest CCA rated battery I could get from Costco. Issue gone for me.
It definitely could be the oil control valve otherwise, for others having the same issue. Definitely check your battery first however, even if it's not that old. Sometimes batteries go bad early for various reasons. Battery is cheaper and easier to test first.
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Old January 14th, 2020, 14:55   #111
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Which battery size did you get from Costco that fit the battery tray?
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Old January 14th, 2020, 15:24   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportwagen3 View Post
Which battery size did you get from Costco that fit the battery tray?


Yeah I saw a write up on this before too, but it was over my head as far as write up goes. Id like to know so that when my battery does go, I can just get the next size up no issue. Just the battery? Or was there any extra mounting hardware? I am far from someone good with electric stuff lol, I am color blind so generally avoid anything other than plug and play stuff.


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Old January 15th, 2020, 04:34   #113
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Batteries are built according to what price they are going to be sold for. The oe battery is relatively high quality as many have lasted 5 years or longer. A quality battery of same size is all most of us need unless we live in extreme climate, Cheap batteries are really no bargain.
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Old January 15th, 2020, 11:09   #114
andymac
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I'll check when I get home tonight on the size, but it was over ~700 CCA. The OEM battery didn't take up the full size of the battery tray, so I suppose they installed a battery with just enough power to start the vehicle. They knew what they're doing and engineered the correct battery I'm sure, but more cranking amps are never a bad idea. A more robust battery will give you more wiggle room if you leave the lights on too long or work on your car with the ignition on longer than usual etc.

I also just read about the ECU coding for the battery on another forum. Apparently the factory batteries made in Germany are "better" because they have very detailed specification/build information on them from the battery manufactures (they probably use better quality materials too, because: Germany). VW is also able to tune the vehicle's charging system ("BMS", battery management system, I suppose) for the specific battery in the ECU. This might lend credence as to why they last as long as they do, the charging system is tuned for a specific battery. When you swap your battery, especially with a different amp rating, the system will work fine, but it won't be as efficient as it was with a known battery rating, possibly reducing the max lifespan of the battery.

The amount batteries are charged nearing the full capacity mark is important apparently (State of Charge "SOC"). Consistent under or over charging the battery is possible in these more modern cars, so maximum life is achieved when the vehicle knows the battery amp rating etc. The system observes the overall energy output of the battery (health) and instructs ancillary systems to shed loads when necessary. Interesting.

I'll have to try coding my battery when my VCDS comes in the mail. ;-)

Central California if anyone needs VCDS Services, I need to pay off this bill... :-D

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonesouth View Post
Please excuse this post from a newbie, but I've had this problem on my 2015 2.0TDI 150 Jetta.

Symptoms: extended cranking on first start of the day (not necessarily a cold day), additionally sometimes stutters when firing up, and sometimes "farts" immediately after firing up.

Only once created a "pending" P0341 fault code which led me to the "Diagnose Dan VVT valve" video on YouTube and other forums etc.


Was going to throw it back at dealer but checked 12v battery first as thought it may not have grunt to turn over the engine correctly.

Sure enough, battery low on overall charge and only produced 12.2v max after resting overnight. Using a smart charger to replenish battery had no effect. Incidentally, my car has auto stop/start, and the coasting function which increases alternator output.

Bought a new battery (AGM type) and not had the problem in over two weeks.

Original battery was the standard 68Ah Varta which is also found in my Audi A3.

Hope this helps at least some owners to find a fix. Incidentally this issue can be found on Skoda forums too - battery fix was mentioned.

EDIT:
There's an Audi video on Youtube which demonstrates how the VVT mechanism operates in the EA288 1.6 and 2.0 TDI engines.

See here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-4xbGeIr58

Think its about 3mins in.
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Old January 15th, 2020, 12:20   #115
andymac
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I'll check the size of the Costco battery when I get home tonight, but it was over ~700 CCA if I remember correctly. The OEM battery didn't take up the full size of the battery tray, so I suppose they installed a battery with just enough power to start the vehicle. They know what they're doing and engineered the correct battery I'm sure, but more cranking amps are never a bad idea. A more robust battery will give you more wiggle room if you leave the lights on too long or work on your car with the ignition on longer than usual etc.
I also just read about the ECU coding for the battery on another forum. Apparently the factory batteries made in Germany are "better" because they have very detailed specification/build/chemistry information on them from the battery manufactures (they probably use better quality materials too, because: Germany). VW is also able to tune the vehicle's charging system ("BMS", battery management system, I suppose is what it stands for) for the specific battery in the ECU. This might lend credence as to why they last as long as they do from the factory, they tune the charging system for the specific battery. When you swap your battery, especially with a different amp rating, the system will work fine, but it won't be as efficient as it was with a known battery rating, possibly reducing the max lifespan of the replacement battery.
The amount batteries are charged when nearing the full capacity mark is important apparently (State of Charge "SOC").
Consistent under or over charging the battery is possible in these more modern cars, so maximum life is achieved when the vehicle knows the battery amp rating etc. The system also observes the overall energy output of the battery (health) and instructs ancillary systems to shed loads when necessary. Interesting.
I'll have to try coding my battery when my VCDS comes in the mail. ;-)
Central California if anyone needs VCDS Services, I need to pay off this bill... :-D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gonesouth View Post
Please excuse this post from a newbie, but I've had this problem on my 2015 2.0TDI 150 Jetta.
Symptoms: extended cranking on first start of the day (not necessarily a cold day), additionally sometimes stutters when firing up, and sometimes "farts" immediately after firing up.
Only once created a "pending" P0341 fault code which led me to the "Diagnose Dan VVT valve" video on YouTube and other forums etc.
Was going to throw it back at dealer but checked 12v battery first as thought it may not have grunt to turn over the engine correctly.
Sure enough, battery low on overall charge and only produced 12.2v max after resting overnight. Using a smart charger to replenish battery had no effect. Incidentally, my car has auto stop/start, and the coasting function which increases alternator output.
Bought a new battery (AGM type) and not had the problem in over two weeks.
Original battery was the standard 68Ah Varta which is also found in my Audi A3.
Hope this helps at least some owners to find a fix. Incidentally this issue can be found on Skoda forums too - battery fix was mentioned.
EDIT:
There's an Audi video on Youtube which demonstrates how the VVT mechanism operates in the EA288 1.6 and 2.0 TDI engines.
See here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-4xbGeIr58
Think its about 3mins in.
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Old January 16th, 2020, 11:09   #116
andymac
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Old January 21st, 2020, 12:12   #117
willafb
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All i do is turn the key all the way to the right. The car will pause (pending glow-plug process) and starts right up without issue.
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