Front Axle Drive Shaft Hub Bolt 6 point vs 12 point ?

nic_a_bod

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The replacement bolt finally came today for the one I pulled out trying to figure out if it held the front rotor on. The old one was a 6 point and a thick washer on it. The new one I have is a 12 point and has a thick collar on it. When I torqued the old one up I didn't have a issue. Bentley says 180 nm + 1/2 turn. Now this new bolt I torqued it to 180 nm and could only get about a 1/4 turn I ended up snapping the 1/2" extension. Then I just had the socket on the breaker bar with a cheater pipe and ended up cracking the socket. Is there a different torque for this new bolt?
 

Mach1

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I have seen the 12 pt on the Mark 4's and the 6 point on the Mark 5's..

I use an impact socket and apply torque to load the bearing then I drop the car on the ground and final torque it. If you can have someone hold the brakes.

I use a 250 ft lb 1/2"torque wrench.
 

maloosheck

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nic_a_bod said:
Is there a different torque for this new bolt?
YES! You can actually order a new one, as you might have over-torqued it.

Here are the specs:
Hex: 180Nm+180deg
XZN (triple square): 70Nm+90deg
 

nic_a_bod

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maloosheck said:
YES! You can actually order a new one, as you might have over-torqued it.

Here are the specs:
Hex: 180Nm+180deg
XZN (triple square): 70Nm+90deg
The new bolt isn't a tripple square bolt like the rear brake carrier ones. I'm going to guess that it's a 27mm 12point socket. Of course I didn't have that. 15/16" 12 point is what I had that worked.
 
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nic_a_bod

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Mach1 said:
I have seen the 12 pt on the Mark 4's and the 6 point on the Mark 5's..

I use an impact socket and apply torque to load the bearing then I drop the car on the ground and final torque it. If you can have someone hold the brakes.

I use a 250 ft lb 1/2"torque wrench.

Yeah I torque it to the 180 nm while it was in the air with someone holding the brakes. I didn't have a issue getting it to that. Trying to get another 1/2 turn when I put it on the ground was the hard part.
 

nic_a_bod

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I tried getting the same bolt. I ordered it through ECS tuning. The single bolt showed a picture of the 12 point so I didn't order that one. The Front Suspension Hardware Kit showed the 6 point bolt so that is the one I ordered, but it came with the 12 point bolts. Here are the links:
(KIT) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/Suspension/OEM/ES8219/

(Single Bolt) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/Suspension/OEM/ES6055/


The triple square bolt that I think your referring to that came with the hardware kit also is for securing the front strut to the spindle, but I didn't remove this bolt.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/Suspension/OEM/ES6054/
 
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maloosheck

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nic_a_bod said:
The triple square bolt that I think your referring to that came with the hardware kit also is for securing the front strut to the spindle, but I didn't remove this bolt.
I will double check again, but it is still 70Nm+90deg.
 

nic_a_bod

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maloosheck said:
I will double check again, but it is still 70Nm+90deg.
I went by the value listed under Drive Axle on Bently. I don't have it in front of me at the moment. But I know it listed a different value under the repair portion than it did for the page with torque values. It said 200 nm + 180 on the repair portion.
 

nic_a_bod

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I chatted with ECS about the picture of the front suspension kit showing 6 point bolt this morning and just checked it out again. Looks like they removed the picture already so that link won't do no good for anyone else wanting to look.
 

milkyjoe01

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Can anyone shed some light as to the correct torque setting & procedure for tightening the front hub to axle BOLT (not a nut) on a 2004 Audi A3 2.0 TDi. It is a genuine Audi bolt, the 12 point, triple square bolt with no splines underneath the bolt flange, it's just smooth. I've read about so many different methods & torque settings it makes my head spin!! Some of the advice given was tighten to 200 Nm & immediately after tighten it an extra 90 deg. another opinion was tighten to 70 Nm & an extra 60 deg. & also slackening off the bolt then tightening a further 180 deg & even 1 that says torque to 200 Nm slacken by 90 deg. you then have to rotate the wheel 1 complete turn & then torque to 90Nm & then a further 90 deg.!!!! HELP!!!! Some of these answers came from the Bentley manual & some from an Audi tech!!! Can you give me your answers in newton metres please. Thanks.
 
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nic_a_bod

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What I have a note in my book after trying to figure out which torque spec goes with what bolt is that the 12 point is 70 nm plus additional 90 degrees.
 

James & Son

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What I have a note in my book after trying to figure out which torque spec goes with what bolt is that the 12 point is 70 nm plus additional 90 degrees.
If you look down the A5 thread starter Page you will see this
Front wheel hub triple square bolt torque value (
1 2)

You can reuse the 6 point which is 10.9 and is not a stretch bolt but because of
it is a critical component should be replaced as stated by Bently. If you read my last
you will see why I was not able to use my bolt charts to compare the 6 point to the
8.8 12 point. By the way I believe the 12 point is an external xyz(triple square) and
a proper fitting socket will probably not break along with a 2 foot 1/2 inch breaker bar
with a pipe on it. My own feelings is the correct torque is 200 NM plus 1/2 turn and
the 8.8 12 pt. is now a stretch bolt that must be replaced. I think Indigobluewagon
is correct inpointing out what is correct torque figures for the 12 pt 8.8

Edit: As you can see meechm ended up with 340 ft lbs which was 200 NM plus 1/4 turn
and I think 180 NM plus 1/2 turn would be in the same area of torque. I hope my explaination
in my last post explains why the high torque compared to the 6 pt and yet the same result
may result. As I point out in my last post friction at the 200 NM torque point will effect
the start point of the 1/2 turn and the integral washer may affect this initial friction by a factor of 1.5.
So it is critical to start with all surfaces dry.
That said I feel uneasy with these unverified figures and feel that they should somehow be confirmed officially.
 
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An old thread but I found the answer as I am doing this job today.
I found this weblink.
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa..._with_(push-on)_constant_velocity_slip_joint/

The answer is ;
Drive shaft to wheel hub „twelve-point head bolt with ribbing“
Use new bolt 70 Nm + 90°
Drive shaft to wheel hub „twelve-point head bolt without ribbing“
Use new bolt 200 Nm + 180°
I still have a problem though my Shaftec CV kit comes with a replacement hex bolt!
 

subber598

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Location
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2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
I tried getting the same bolt. I ordered it through ECS tuning. The single bolt showed a picture of the 12 point so I didn't order that one. The Front Suspension Hardware Kit showed the 6 point bolt so that is the one I ordered, but it came with the 12 point bolts. Here are the links:
(KIT) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/Suspension/OEM/ES8219/

(Single Bolt) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/Suspension/OEM/ES6055/


The triple square bolt that I think your referring to that came with the hardware kit also is for securing the front strut to the spindle, but I didn't remove this bolt.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Jetta_V--TDI/Suspension/OEM/ES6054/
From what I've seen, the the strut to spindle bolt is a 14mm tripple square w/ a18mm nut
 

subber598

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Location
New Hampshire
TDI
2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
Axle bolt part number

What is the PN of the bolt?
I know this is an old thread, but this is what I found. P/N: n910 406 01. Got this VW number somewhere-can't recall right now-but when I punched it in at the dealer the picture showed the 6-pt hex head front axle bolt. Looks like they carry all the other fasteners that someone may need when working on the suspension.
 
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subber598

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Location
New Hampshire
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2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
Axle bolt part number

What is the PN of the bolt?
I know this is an old thread, but this is what I found. P/N: n910 406 01. Got this VW number somewhere-can't recall right now-but when I punched it in at the dealer the picture showed the 6-pt hex head. Looks like they carry all the other fasteners that you someone may need when working on the suspension.
 

subber598

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Aug 9, 2018
Location
New Hampshire
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2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
Axle bolt sizing

The new bolt isn't a tripple square bolt like the rear brake carrier ones. I'm going to guess that it's a 27mm 12point socket. Of course I didn't have that. 15/16" 12 point is what I had that worked.
What I found is that the 27mm is the 6-pt hex head, and the 24mm is the 12-pt. The 15/16 is only about .007 of an inch different than the 24mm
 

subber598

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Aug 9, 2018
Location
New Hampshire
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2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
12-pt variants

An old thread but I found the answer as I am doing this job today.
I found this weblink.
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa..._with_(push-on)_constant_velocity_slip_joint/
The answer is ;
Drive shaft to wheel hub „twelve-point head bolt with ribbing“
Use new bolt 70 Nm + 90°
Drive shaft to wheel hub „twelve-point head bolt without ribbing“
Use new bolt 200 Nm + 180°
I still have a problem though my Shaftec CV kit comes with a replacement hex bolt!
Used that site when learning how to remove the struts, but hadn't noticed that torque difference. Only variation shown was the 6-pt hex head vs. the 12-pt. I can only assume they were referring to the 12-pt w/ribbing? Anyway, my 2006 has the 6-pt, so that's what I'll replace. Thanks
 

petee_c

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Heidelberg, Ontario, Canada
TDI
15 Golf TDI, was 06 Jetta TDI, 15 q7 tdi, was 11 Q7 TDI
I replaced my front driver wheel bearing myself about 2 yrs ago. I don't think I could get that much torque into it with the tools I have. I may have broken a 1/2" extension when I did mine.

I have a decent air impact 1/2" gun. I think I did 5 seconds of ug-ah-dug's on it.

Been fine for the past 65,000+ km.



Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

subber598

Member
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Aug 9, 2018
Location
New Hampshire
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2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
If you look down the A5 thread starter Page you will see this
Front wheel hub triple square bolt torque value (
1 2)

You can reuse the 6 point which is 10.9 and is not a stretch bolt but because of
it is a critical component should be replaced as stated by Bently. If you read my last
you will see why I was not able to use my bolt charts to compare the 6 point to the
8.8 12 point. By the way I believe the 12 point is an external xyz(triple square) and
a proper fitting socket will probably not break along with a 2 foot 1/2 inch breaker bar
with a pipe on it. My own feelings is the correct torque is 200 NM plus 1/2 turn and
the 8.8 12 pt. is now a stretch bolt that must be replaced. I think Indigobluewagon
is correct inpointing out what is correct torque figures for the 12 pt 8.8

Edit: As you can see meechm ended up with 340 ft lbs which was 200 NM plus 1/4 turn
and I think 180 NM plus 1/2 turn would be in the same area of torque. I hope my explaination
in my last post explains why the high torque compared to the 6 pt and yet the same result
may result. As I point out in my last post friction at the 200 NM torque point will effect
the start point of the 1/2 turn and the integral washer may affect this initial friction by a factor of 1.5.
So it is critical to start with all surfaces dry.
That said I feel uneasy with these unverified figures and feel that they should somehow be confirmed officially.
So now it's time to again replace both front coil springs (this time on my 2011) and when the parts arrived, the axle bolts were 12pt smooth flange 8.8grade. The old are 10.9 12pt so it would seem that these new bolts will be stretched once they're torqued 180nm + 180deg. Out of curiosity, anyone know a supplier of 10.9gd 12pt?
 

subber598

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Aug 9, 2018
Location
New Hampshire
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2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
Update to my axle bolt

Finally got to the spring replacement today on the 2011, and I'm now scratching my head. When the axle bolts were removed, they had ribs on the flange, 10.9grade. So if these were originally torqued 52ftlb + 90deg, are they reusable or should I use the new 8.8grade w/o ribs and do the same torgue? Anyone else have this situation? Thanks
 

Mach1

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Location
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05.5 Jetta 5 spd, 06 Jetta DE DSG, 04 F250 6L, 2000 F250 7.3L
Pretty much any fastener that specifies an additional twisting which is expressed in angler spec is a TTY fastener. It is supposed to be one time use only. If it doesn't have an angle measurement it can be reused.

Hope this helps.
 

subber598

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Location
New Hampshire
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2014 Jetta Sportwagon TDI, 2013 Passat SE, 2011 Jetta SEL
Axle bolt update

Didn't want to revive this again, but during the whole spring replacement project I found bad bearings. Order a pkg. of (2) FEQ brand that came w/hardware. The ax bolts were 12pt and had ribs but no grade mark. So going to go with the 70Nm-90deg torq. Btw on a autodoc.co.uk vid that I watched, the tech replaced the 12pt and torqued it 80Nm only. Someone replied to that fact and the response was to check your particular vehicles documents. It was a golf 6.
 
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