Idles fine, but will not rev, bluish smoke, and no power...

2003 Jetta TDI Wagon 5-speed...

Four YEARS and a few months ago, I bought this car and drove it home on a 1500 mile trip. The engine ran flawlessly, and the Turbo was perfect.

At that time, I already had an identical 2003 Jetta Wagon, so I parked this one in my garage for "later use"... over the past four years and a few months I have started the engine at least a few times per year, and drove the car a few hundred feet or so now and then, but never above 5 MPH.

Yesterday I was going to take it for an actual "drive" on the highway and before I could get down my 200 foot driveway, the car just refused to rev up and started blowing bluish smoke like crazy. It idles perfectly, and doesn't smoke when idling, but will not rev up, and smokes like crazy if you try.

No CEL. Air filter is good. No water from the fuel filter drain. Intake is a little blackish but not terrible. No unusual amount of oil from the cooler. Oil does not appear to have coolant in it, and coolant does not appear to have oil in it. Turbo spins freely. Actuator rod for Turbo boost release/control I found to be very stiff, but loosened it up and no change in symptoms.

What the h__l happened while this car was sitting in my garage?

Definately sounds like it's starving for air, but if the filter is good, the next thing might be the fuel filter, although it would get hard to start if that were the case. I would check the MAF values and see what it shows. It's entirely possible that the MAF just isn't showing enough air getting in, which will eventually throw a CEL. Do you have VAG-COM?

-Rich

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the lack of any CEL is pretty confusing in a case where the car is not even in a drivable condition.

I live in northern WI, don't own a VAG-COM and don't know anybody who does. It's an investment I should have made years ago, but now I just don't have the $$$.

My thought is since the engine IDLES perfectly, at which point the Turbo is not engaging, and starts smoking and running terribly the moment I try to rev it up (Turbo engages), the problem must be related to the Turbo "system". I was sure the Turbo was stuck, which would have explained everything. But when I disconnected the hose and stuck my finger in there, I could turn the fins pretty easily. Is it possible that even though the Turbo can be turned with my finger, it is still too "tight" and needs to spin even more freely?

Honestly, this car drove like new when I parked it. I really need help on this one, so I'd appreciate any and all ideas here.

No, if the turbo spins, it's fine. Do you still have the other TDI?

-Rich

Also, here's a question...When you try to rev it up, what happens? That is, does the engine's RPM increase at all? What RPM does the smoke appear at? Does the engine begin to shake randomly like the combustion is "breaking down"?

Feel free to give me a call at 603-529-5510 if you think it would be quicker.

-Rich

Check your boost hoses (intercooler piping). If one came off, the engine wouldn't get enough air and will act as you describe since the turbo can't pressurize the intake air.

Hmmm...shouldn't matter at no-load condition though.

-Rich

When you try to rev it up, what happens? That is, does the engine's RPM increase at all? What RPM does the smoke appear at? Does the engine begin to shake randomly like the combustion is "breaking down"?

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First, no, I don't still have the other TDI. Was the best car I have EVER owned, but had to sell for financial reasons. My plan was to just start driving this one, which is why I bought it years ago.

When I try to rev the engine, basically nothing happens. RPM do not seem to increase, and in one or two attempts I almost thought I heard some sort of "noise"... nothing super scary, but "something" unusual... I know, it's no help... I spent a couple of hours yesterday removing all the related hoses, loosening up the "waste gate actuator rod", and making sure everything was tight. I tried the car afterward and it "seemed" slightly different, like it "wanted" to rev and go, but it's still far from being drivable.

I don't think the engine shakes in any significant way. The smoke seemed less after all the work I did yesterday, but it was getting fairly dark outside by then, so I'm pretty sure nothing really changed.

One thing that HAS changed is that the engine, for the first time ever, does not start up immediately like it always has. Now it requires fairly excessive cranking to get it running when cold.

I really appreciate the help you guys on this forum offer. Seems like we should be able to figure this one out... the problem has to be related to TIME, so what CAN happen to a car that sits for so long?

Run engine with big elbow air hose disconnected at egr valve. With engine idling, air should blow out of the hose as turbo spins. If turbo is too tight to spin, there will be no air flow out of the hose.

If turbo is sticky, it might loosen up as engine oil temp rises. Seen this before on other engines that have sat.

mouse nest in snow screen?

If it's hard to start now, then I think a fuel filter is in order.

When diesel sits around for long periods, algae can grow in the tank, as well as other nasties. It's probably clogging the fuel filter now, making it hard to start and harder for the pump to maintain case pressure at high pumping speeds.

-Rich

mouse nest in snow screen?

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I am embarrassed to say I don't know exactly what or where this snow screen is, but I have not seen any evidence of mouse nests anywhere.

If it's hard to start now, then I think a fuel filter is in order. When diesel sits around for long periods, algae can grow in the tank, as well as other nasties.

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I drove all the way into town yesterday specifically to purchase a new fuel filter, but was talked out of it by the Foreign Auto Repair place. The mechanic said the bacterial problems with diesel fuel do not occur in this climate. Still, I think I'd better go back and get a filter.

Run engine with big elbow air hose disconnected at egr valve. With engine idling, air should blow out of the hose as turbo spins. If turbo is too tight to spin, there will be no air flow out of the hose. If turbo is sticky, it might loosen up as engine oil temp rises.

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Do you mean the hard plastic "hose" on the passenger side? I am working alone on this, so I can't be in the car trying to rev the engine and also be outside feeling for air coming out of the hose... but I like this idea...

the snow screen is at the leading end of the inlet pipe to the air box. remove the air box from the car and there will be a hard pipe that is the inlet to the air box. remove that and check it for obstructions.

On an unrelated issue, if the car has been sitting for four years, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to check the TB to make sure its not dry-rotted. Wouldn't want that to break / lose teeth...

Thanks... I just watched a YouTube video on cleaning the snow screen. I'll go out and check that right now and come back with a report.

My intention is to have the TB changed as soon as I get the car running correctly, but I will pull the cover off and take a look today. Good advice.

I meant big air hose that forms a 90deg bend right by timing belt cover on top of engine passenger side.

No need to rev engine, air should be blowing out the hose even at idle. If not, turbo is not spinning.

I meant big air hose that forms a 90deg bend right by timing belt cover on top of engine passenger side.

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I know the hose, but thought the turbo doesn't spin until about 1800 RPM. I'll give that a try when I get back from town with a new fuel filter.

I pulled the snow screen off and it is perfectly clean, other than a little dust.

Gotta get this car on the road within the next day or I'm in big trouble...

Thanks to all.

Maybe a dumb question, but how old is the fuel?

TDItus said:

I know the hose, but thought the turbo doesn't spin until about 1800 RPM. I'll give that a try when I get back from town with a new fuel filter.

I pulled the snow screen off and it is perfectly clean, other than a little dust.

Gotta get this car on the road within the next day or I'm in big trouble...

Thanks to all.

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Turbo spins and moves air anytime engine is running. It does not make much boost until under load. Even idling, you should feel air blowing out of the disconnected hose.

Brakelights working fine? If the brakelight switch is defective it will prevent the engine from revving much past idle.

Maybe a dumb question, but how old is the fuel?

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Definitely not a dumb question. The car has been mostly sitting in my garage for a little over four years. That's how old the fuel is... though I just added about four fresh gallons...

I think the brake light thing may put the car in limp mode, but this car is WAY beyond that... hahaha...

Anyway, I just installed a new fuel filter, and even filled it with diesel fuel before hooking up the lines, and now there doesn't appear to be any fuel flowing out of the filter. I've turned the car over many many times, and it keeps trying to start, sometimes runs for two or three seconds, then dies.

Changing the fuel filter is not rocket science, but am I overlooking something super simple here?

Hmmmm...It could be sucking in air from somewhere. Next thing to do might be to put some grease on the quick disconnect fittings near the firewall (take them apart first and grease the stems), as well as the fittings on top of the tank. Don't try to pull the sender out unless the tank is less than 1/2 full.

Maybe try bleeding any air out that might be in the lines? Although I don't think that it would start at all in that case.

Hmmmmmmm...

-Rich

Latest update: Pulled the main line off the new filter, added a couple more tablespoons of diesel and could see the filter is FULL.

Turned the car over again, many many times, and each time it would fire and run for between one and five seconds.

Then I pulled the outgoing line off the filter and very carefully poured a couple of tablespoons of diesel directly into that line, running to the pump. This basically proved to me that there was NO fuel in that line, until I added a little.

Turned the car over and it ran for about ten or fifteen seconds (a miracle), then died. Right back to no fuel leaving the new filter, therefore no fuel in the line running to the pump.

Is there a safe way for me to FILL the injector pump, without risking corrupting the system? I bet the car would start up and idle perfectly until the pump ran dry.

Oh, and I loosened all four injector lines and turned the engine over until there was definitely fuel coming through each line, in case there was some sort of airlock in the system. Unfortunately, I am working alone so could not actually SEE how much fuel was coming through each line.

HELP!

would suggest doing the secret H mod. You most likely have a fuel starvation situation. Diesel does not like to sit... CLEAN the complete fuel system. Tank, lines, IP and change the fuel filter. One of the best cars out there an 03 wagon 5 speed and also post for a vag com in the regional threads. You might be surprised there really might be one near you.

I went to college in Ashland and yeah it is rather un populated up there. But there are sure a lot of bars...

YOU have a tank problem it is a much overlooked item. or a crushed fuel line .... ummm nah tank.. Diesel is a 6 month fuel longer its a crud shoot.

I'm thinking... so I loosened the injector lines, turned the engine over, and could see that there was at least SOME fuel at each injector. BUT, when I look at the transparent line coming out of the filter and into the pump, I swear there is NO fuel in that line. So how could fuel be getting to the injectors? How could the engine fire and run for a second or more each time I turn it over?

If somebody can tell me how to hand-fill the actual pump, please do so. I am convinced the car would run for ten minutes or more.

YOU have a tank problem it is a much overlooked item. or a crushed fuel line

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Possibly a tank problem. But why, before installing a new fuel filter, did the car idle perfectly for as long as I wanted? Is it because idling requires so little fuel that the problem would only become apparent when trying to deliver more fuel to the engine?

More importantly, why, before I installed the new filter, could I clearly SEE fuel in the line running to the pump, and now that same line seems to have NO fuel in it?

Seems to me the problem is that the pump is not drawing fuel out of the filter now all of a sudden.

I use an outboard motor squeeze bulb fuel hose to pump fuel into the inlet of the fuel filter. Note injection pump has a vane type lift pump that sucks fuel from the filter and pressurizes the body of the pump with fuel. That vane pump will hardly pump air, so when swapping filter, it is common for it to stall.

Vane pump also makes it very slow to push fuel through pump to prime. Fuel does move, just slowly, be patient.

With injection lines cracked, it will still spit when pump is air bound. Can't read much into that. Gotta get pump solid with fuel.

Did you fill filter before swapping?

STOP your pump needs fuel for lubrication...... NO fuel $1,500.00 for new pump...

flip up the right rear seat... fold over ht ecarpet and see the tank cover. remove the screws and fittings and BIG retaining cap... Your prob is there. Also look to see if the rev on the sending unit has an "H"..... If it does you do not need to drill out the flapper valve.. There are times that water gets in there and freezes... Mine did my wifes Golf and 12 other NH cars have over the years. Remove all the gooky fuel ALL of it. Yep its the price for neglect..... Then wipe it the best you can. Refil with NEW fuel and additive Power service comes to mind.. Here is the tricky part..... un hook th efuel filter and put a jar under the hoses. Apply air pressure to the fuel tank filler use rags ro assure not much air escapes. 5-10 lbs air pressure.... watch the fuel flow into the jar. do about 1/2 gal to assure the lines are clear. clean the Tee also. then give it a crank fingers crossed it will start. GO easy.

STOP your pump needs fuel for lubrication

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This I am aware of, but your reminder is greatly appreciated. I just got myself into this frame of mind where "it keeps starting and running, sometimes for up to 8 or 10 seconds, so I'll try a little more..."

If I understand what you're saying, I can access the INSIDE of the fuel tank through the

BIG retaining cap

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under the carpet??? WOW, if that is true, I'll be overjoyed...

It is now too dark, but in the morning I will follow your instructions and see how ugly it is "in there"...

So how can I control how much air pressure I introduce into the tank? All I really have is a compressor and a trigger operated thing for blowing dust and dirt off parts, etc. Just stick that into the filler with some rags jammed around it and pull the trigger until fuel comes out of the filter hoses? Sorry, never did this before...