2015 Golf TDI trailer wiring harness installation

Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Location
Hilliard, OH
TDI
2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI
Confirmed functional!

In my case, I moved the green wire one pin over and then the yellow was moved two pins over.

I'm inexplicably excited to hook up a trailer now! Though, I probably won't have a need until Spring, but at least I know I'm ready whenever the need does arise. :)

Thanks again for the help!
 

Grigg3

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2006
Location
Lexington, VA
TDI
05 Jetta wagon, 15 Golf wagon
For those late to this party, here's a photo of what my modified (for 2015 GSW) Towready harness (#118646) looks like (green wire moved on passenger side; yellow wire moved on driver side).
Thanks for the picture. Couldn’t see the diagram linked earlier, and wasn’t following along on how to do it with just words.

Looking at the connectors as supplied, and as modified, it’s real simple to figure out.
The yellow moves over to the third slot and green moves to the second, from original locations at one side.

Just modified mine, haven’t installed and tested.
Didn’t have a tool to remove the wires and improvised with a little piece of aluminum sheet metal cut real narrow, did the trick. A piece of steel sheet metal would have been better, but it’s not so difficult that soft aluminum can’t work, “tool” shown as well. Photo uploaded to the forum, hope it stays visible for a long time.

 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Yeah - the swap was pretty quick and easy (assuming popping the wires out goes easily). But for the actual wiring change itself, pretty minor.
 

laminated

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2004
Location
Canada
TDI
15 Sportwagen
if you want to use a generic converter like the 119192 towready. my guy just tapped into the factory wires , If you look at this harness pic in the post, the harness just grabs power from the black with red chaser wire, so tap into that wire and your golden, I got mine from a 2014 that was on local forum.
 

Grigg3

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2006
Location
Lexington, VA
TDI
05 Jetta wagon, 15 Golf wagon
I installed the modified 118646 a few weeks ago, it wasn't so much trouble.

The trim in the back of the wagon just unsnaps after removing a couple screws where the grocery bag hooks are. I had no instructions but gently pulled and pried and it came apart without breaking anything.

The wiring box thing I mounted with some sticky Velcro inside the left rear removable cover. The left taillight is accessed here too.

To get to the right tail light I choose to run the wires above, there are already some wires that go up toward the trunk light and on over.
Also above I ran power from the 12V socket on the right over to the trailer light module on the left, with the fuse on the left where it's easy to get to.

It would have been cleaner and no harm to original wiring to have same plugs as the 12V socket takes to make a plug in tap... but I just tapped into the wire before the plug.
Someone could research what those part number are.

With that done here's how to make the 12V accessory sockets always on, just moving a fuse.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=476748

Finally got my hitch installed last week and used it yesterday, all worked well.
 

tdidieselbobny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
Just a FYI- the Tekonsha #118730 for the '16-up Sportwagen won't work either. It has the same placement of wires as #118646 before moving them and a extra brown wire on one side.... looks like this will be route I go.....
 

SgtJCJ

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Location
Tacoma, WA
TDI
2012 Red Golf
Need help

Just a FYI- the Tekonsha #118730 for the '16-up Sportwagen won't work either. It has the same placement of wires as #118646 before moving them and a extra brown wire on one side.... looks like this will be route I go.....
I was gong to go this route as well. Did you ever get this done? Where does the brown wire connect?
 

tdidieselbobny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
Nope, I ended up sending it back. No hurry to do it now, as the MKIV I bought has a hitch and wiring installed already....
 

Bambaataa

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Location
KW, On
TDI
06 Jetta BRM 6MT; '15 Golf Sportwagen TDI GSW
I purchased the Tekonsha Harness 118646 from etrailer and have the harness modified exactly as displayed in the pictures of the post...

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=5347402&postcount=32

Upon testing on 2015 Sportwagen, Here are my results

Left Signal on the Car works
Left Signal on the Trailer works
Right Signal on the Car Works
Right Signal on the Trailer Works
Brake Lights on the Car works
Brake Lights on the Trailer works
Hazard/Four ways on the Car works
Hazard/Four ways on the Trailer works
Tail lights on the Car works
Tail lights on the Trailer DO NOT work

Any ideas on how i can get this working?

Thanks for the picture. Couldn’t see the diagram linked earlier, and wasn’t following along on how to do it with just words.

Looking at the connectors as supplied, and as modified, it’s real simple to figure out.
The yellow moves over to the third slot and green moves to the second, from original locations at one side.

Just modified mine, haven’t installed and tested.
Didn’t have a tool to remove the wires and improvised with a little piece of aluminum sheet metal cut real narrow, did the trick. A piece of steel sheet metal would have been better, but it’s not so difficult that soft aluminum can’t work, “tool” shown as well. Photo uploaded to the forum, hope it stays visible for a long time.

 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Step 1: Make sure the bulbs on the trailer are good (?). Typically, signal / brake lights are one filament; tail is another one. Also check that all the wires are fully seated and making contact.

Step 2: Check the wiring again - my first attempt I'd mixed something up.

Step 3: Get the voltmeter out and identify where you're losing signal.
(Maybe this should be step 1(?) :D )
 

Bambaataa

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Location
KW, On
TDI
06 Jetta BRM 6MT; '15 Golf Sportwagen TDI GSW
Step 1: Make sure the bulbs on the trailer are good (?). Typically, signal / brake lights are one filament; tail is another one. Also check that all the wires are fully seated and making contact.

Step 2: Check the wiring again - my first attempt I'd mixed something up.

Step 3: Get the voltmeter out and identify where you're losing signal.
(Maybe this should be step 1(?) :D )
1) The "Trailer lights" i used for my testing are 2 separate devices.
- a trailer light tester device, with 3 LED's for tail, left and right. Brakes are indicated by both left and right LED indicator.
- The other device is a tow light kit from Princess auto
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12v-red-amber-magnetic-tow-light-kit/A-p8723728e

The lights test yield the same results on both devices

2) I have put the pictures right next to the harness and confirmed the wires in the plugs are exactly as indicated

i will test the lines and see but ironically someone with a different harness had a similar problem.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-231622.html

I'll take a second look at the harness....
 

bajaONE

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Location
baja sur mexico
TDI
2001 and 2003 Jetta ALH; 2016 golf Sportwagon TDI SEL
question, new to my 2016 sportwagon. I just installed a trailer hitch a few weeks ago. my trailer i pull with it is on the small size 4' by 8', use to pull it BEHIND my motorcycle. So legally during the day do not need lights on it where I am located. I am looking to maybe take a long distance trip in 6 months so looking into the wiring harnesses. Also found a nice wireless system i may wire into it.

I also had a fuse blowing so printed out the fuses and noticed on the list there were fuse locations for F22 charger cable for trailer, F28 left trailer controller unit, F38 Right trailer controller unit, and F44 Trailer controller unit. So my questions are:
1, are these for only europe model as they have a built in option for a built in trailer hitch that is incredible.
2, if wired in on all models where are these feeds located, front or back? specific locations?
3, do we have to program these into operating?

If so found a decent cable connector.


wireless wiring system

Updated. I found this one, https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/trailer-control-module-oem.407098/#post-5211262 and think that tells me enough that I believe I am just going to be better off with just do the wireless one I linked to. Mainly because it will be very low power consumption and will not need to do anything else. Plus will be able to use the same wireless device in other vehicles .

 
Last edited:

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Looking at that wireless system, though, it looks like you have to go through all of the hassle of still tapping into the wires of your existing tail & brake lights - the only difference being that instead of plugging into the trailer's connector (which is wired to its lights), the trailer's lights are "remote".

The best option to me is the Tekonsha 118646 wiring harness - you simply unplug your taillight housing connector on each side, plug into the Tekonsha harness, and find some power and a ground for it. Like I posted earlier in this thread, I had to move one wire on each side into a different slot, but that was pretty quick and easy once I figured out what to do.
 

bajaONE

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Location
baja sur mexico
TDI
2001 and 2003 Jetta ALH; 2016 golf Sportwagon TDI SEL
Looking at that wireless system, though, it looks like you have to go through all of the hassle of still tapping into the wires of your existing tail & brake lights - the only difference being that instead of plugging into the trailer's connector (which is wired to its lights), the trailer's lights are "remote".

The best option to me is the Tekonsha 118646 wiring harness - you simply unplug your taillight housing connector on each side, plug into the Tekonsha harness, and find some power and a ground for it. Like I posted earlier in this thread, I had to move one wire on each side into a different slot, but that was pretty quick and easy once I figured out what to do.
Ya have not found one for a sportwagon, found that the golf ones say in general they do not work for sportswagon. .

added, I have a hard time paying that much for 2 connectors basically is what they are including. I am proficient at soldering as I have a cordless solder gun. The wireless one I noted is about USD$100.00
 

nathanso

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Location
Redwood City, CA
TDI
2015 GSW TDI S 6M (sold)
From a post of mine elsewhere on this site:
"Confirming that the CURT 56360, which is spec'd for the 2017 Golf Alltrack, works for the 2015 GSW TDI. I located the 56360 controller in the rear quarter panel further rear from the car's foam toolkit box. It mounts with supplied thick double-sided foam tape. Power comes from the 12V socket on the right side cargo panel. The four-wire trailer connector cable and the single green wire for the right side tail lights exit the left side tail light access panel at its bottom. The four wire cable stores in the left side cargo tray until towing time. The green wire got hidden behind the carpet that's under the hatch lower trim piece."
 

bajaONE

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Location
baja sur mexico
TDI
2001 and 2003 Jetta ALH; 2016 golf Sportwagon TDI SEL
From a post of mine elsewhere on this site:
"Confirming that the CURT 56360, which is spec'd for the 2017 Golf Alltrack, works for the 2015 GSW TDI. I located the 56360 controller in the rear quarter panel further rear from the car's foam toolkit box. It mounts with supplied thick double-sided foam tape. Power comes from the 12V socket on the right side cargo panel. The four-wire trailer connector cable and the single green wire for the right side tail lights exit the left side tail light access panel at its bottom. The four wire cable stores in the left side cargo tray until towing time. The green wire got hidden behind the carpet that's under the hatch lower trim piece."
Thanks,

Bummer for me, after reading right away I go to their website and enter the 2015 or 2016 sportwagon they do not show compatibility with it or any controller. maybe different connectors. I make the assumption on low cost to manufacture products with a high retail they have done their homework.

And for me it is nearly impossible just not worth the hassle of returns because for one impossible to get the duty back and shipping cost is high and not recoverable. It takes on average 1 month to get the product from the usa, and returning is even more difficult. I explain to people it is like living on an island like Hawaii nothing happens fast with low population and products having to take a ferry. Or have friend mule things down.

another option would be getting that universal current sensing expensive unit that you do not cut into the wires. But as I said I am a decent tech with electronic soldering and will not cut the wire just the plastic coating.

thanks again...
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Ya have not found one for a sportwagon, found that the golf ones say in general they do not work for sportswagon. .

added, I have a hard time paying that much for 2 connectors basically is what they are including. I am proficient at soldering as I have a cordless solder gun. The wireless one I noted is about USD$100.00
I used exactly that one I linked to on my Sportwagen. The only reason it "doesn't work" with the Sportwagen is that a couple of the wires were in the wrong slots.
See my earlier post in this thread .

If your connectors are the same shape with that red locking tab, that 118646 harness should work after moving the wires.
 

bajaONE

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Location
baja sur mexico
TDI
2001 and 2003 Jetta ALH; 2016 golf Sportwagon TDI SEL
Ok, thanks Nule, i will have to look in my extensive electronics tools to see if I have a pin releaser, it is possible I would have one used for Molex connectors. If not, is having such a pin release tool a tool I would use in the next 15 years of owning this car? To date have never needed one for my 2001 and 2003 jettas. I donate one time use tools to my friend who is a TDI mechanic so it would not go to waste.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
I think I paid like $50 for the pin release tools from @penclnck way back when they were impossible to find anywhere. And even though they're like $10-15 on Amazon now, still well worth it for me.

Used to be that filing down the tongs on a pair of tweezers would work, but the release holes on some of the connectors now are ridiculously tight/narrow.
 

nathanso

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Location
Redwood City, CA
TDI
2015 GSW TDI S 6M (sold)
This tool from ID Parts worked on the connections of my 2015 GSW TDI. I don't recommend the "quick splice snap wire" type connectors for these cars (which are often provided in trailer wiring kits) because the conductor gauge is so thin that the insulation is providing much of the wire's strength, i.e. the wires readily bend at the splice points and seem prone to fatiguing and breaking sooner than later.
 

tdidieselbobny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
Crap, forgot to post which Tekonsha kit I used for the '15. It is the one where the connectors go over the vehicles wires and go by pulse or something like that. Doesn't cut into insulation, and it works great! Haven't had any issues with it the few years I have been running it, For the power to it, I bought a 12v cigarette plug that I wired it up to so I could use the 12v outlet on the right rear wheelwell. It stays plugged in all the time, no issues.
 

benettlr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2012
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2015 TDI Sportwagen
Since the Curt 56360 is no longer available, it appears that some owners have questions about installing the suggested Curt 56391. Here are some images and instructions on how to install the Curt 56391 (and Hopkins 47185) in a 2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI. Note that driver side and passenger side references are for North America.

The connector contact pins of the Curt 56391 wiring harness are arranged for plug-and-play with the 2017 Golf Alltrack and therefore the yellow (left turn) and green (right turn) wires of the harness are not in the necessary locations for the 2015 GSW. Relocating several of the contacts in the wiring harness is therefore necessary.


Image 01: Curt 56391 (labeled for 2017 VW Golf Alltrack) and a generic Hopkins 47185


The wiring of the Golf Sportwagen is multiplexed and the lights receive their commands via Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). It is my understanding that the signals are +0.5v for the tail position lights, +5.0v for the turn signal lights, +12.0v for the brake lights and that the relevant wires in the vehicle can be identified via back-probing using a fast response multi-meter. The wires can also be identified via the wiring diagram for the 2015 Golf Sportwagen. Specifically, the left turn signal in the vehicle is the 0.5mm schwarz/weiss (black with white tracer) wire as shown below.


Image 02: Image of left side wiring diagram for 2015 Golf Sportwagen


So, for the Curt 56391 harness connectors on the driver side, the yellow wire of the harness needs to be relocated (i.e. swapped with the relevant white wire) in order to match with the 2015 GSW vehicle wire that is black with a white tracer. Note that out of the box, the yellow wire is positioned in line with the black/red vehicle wire (as shown below prior to swapping). The brown wire of the Curt harness conveniently remains in place – in line with the 2015 GSW vehicle wire that is gray with a black tracer.


Image 03: Image of left side connector (before modification)


For the Curt 56391 harness connectors on the passenger side, the green wire of the harness needs to be relocated (again, swapped with the relevant white wire) in order to match with the 2015 GSW vehicle wire that is black with a green tracer. Note that out of the box, the green wire is located in line with the black/purple vehicle wire (as shown below prior to swapping).


Image 04: Image of right side connector (before modification)


Connector contact pin removal is easily accomplished via a proper VAG connector removal tool – some owners report successful improvising via grinding the tips of tweezers or reshaping small cotter pins. A pair of tools is available from IDParts (on back-order at the time of this writing) or a 3-piece tool kit (Schwaben 025682SCH01A) is available from ECS Tuning.


Image 05: Image of Schwaben 025682SCH01A tool kit


The removal tool is quite small – the grip size being about half that of a typical workshop screwdriver handle – but it works very well.


Image 06: Image of Schwaben tools


The tangs of the pin removal tool are inserted into small rectangular holes that straddle the contact that is to be removed. As the tangs are inserted, they push against two metal barbs on the sides of the contact, flexing the barbs inwards, thus allowing the contact and wire to be pulled out of the connector housing without the barbs catching (see photos by Nuje posted earlier in this thread). Note that the housings also have plastic latches on their exterior shells that need to be carefully pried upwards and unsnapped to allow the contacts and wires to be fully removed from the connector housing. Also note that the contacts do have a certain orientation and thus need to be re-inserted in their new locations correctly (in other words, don’t unintentionally clock the contacts by 90 degrees during re-insertion).


Image 07: Image of pin removal tool use


The trailer module can be mounted in several locations. My preference was to mount it to a flat region of sheet metal near the forward corner of the Styrofoam tool case. In addition to the adhesive-backed double-sided foam provided I also opted to mechanically fasten the module’s mounting tab to an existing hole in the vehicle’s interior sheet metal. The white ground wire of the module is anchored to a vehicle grounding post slightly forward of the module location (not visible in photos). Access to the threaded grounding post required partial removal of the trunk side panel. Positive power to the module is from the 12v accessory outlet on the opposite side of the trunk, as discussed elsewhere in this thread (in other words, I did not run a dedicated positive wire underneath the full length of the vehicle all the way from the battery). Tapping into the 12v accessory outlet is perfectly adequate since the vehicle will be used to tow trailers that are fitted with LED bulbs.


Image 08: Side access panel removed



Image 09: Detail of Curt trailer module installation



Image 10: Image of the installed left side (modified) connectors



Image 11: Image of the installed right side (modified) connectors


Instead of having the trailer ribbon cable and 4-pin connector lay loose in the trunk area, I preferred instead to have an exterior receptacle for both 4-pin SAE and 7-blade RV type plugs (note that for the 7-blade, only 4 of the contacts are being used). The bracket of a Hopkins 47185 was riveted to the lower surface of a Westfalia 317 132 600 001 towbar – to the left side of the hitch receiver. Enough spacing was provided to allow a 7-blade RV plug to be inserted without interference from the 50mm hitch. The Westfalia hitch is available from PF Jones in the UK.


Image 12: Hopkins 47185 mounted to the left of the hitch receiver



Image 13: View from below Hopkins 47185 showing routing of 4-conductor ribbon cable


Unlike the regular Golf, the Golf Sportwagen already has a cutout in the rear valance panel. However, the stock cutout extends very little on the driver side and quite far on the passenger side (in other words, the VW factory cutout is not centered with respect to the middle of the hitch). Since the Hopkins 47185 was fitted to the driver side, the size of the cutout on the left side was increased (to the same extent as the right side) in order to provide necessary room for the Hopkins receptacle.


Image 14: View from below bumper showing extended cutout in the rear valance panel
 
Last edited:

GolfSW98

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
Location
USA
TDI
MK7 TDI
Installed the 118646 harness, moved the pins over and fired up the car and have multiple bulb out errors, go to giggle the harness and the lights work so its a loose contact, how is that even possible. Using stock harness direct connect is no issue. With how secure every connection is, this makes no sense
 

Cuzoe

Veteran Member
Joined
May 24, 2017
Location
Los Angeles
TDI
MK7 Golf S
Bulb out errors on our cars are based on the expected resistance of a given bulb based on how that bulb type is set in the BCM, for a given light channel. If you significantly change the resistance (in either direction) the BCM will throw an error.

I haven't looked through this thread and don't know exactly how the harness you added works. But if It's just tapping into wiring the resistance change should be negligible... Unless something on the other end of the harness, or the harness itself, is shorted or somehow damaged.

Something in the new harness is adding or removing resistance from one of the light circuits. Being the connectors are new, I would assume something internal to the harness, the electronics of the harness, or a mistake in the repinning.
 

GolfSW98

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2021
Location
USA
TDI
MK7 TDI
Bulb out errors on our cars are based on the expected resistance of a given bulb based on how that bulb type is set in the BCM, for a given light channel. If you significantly change the resistance (in either direction) the BCM will throw an error.

I haven't looked through this thread and don't know exactly how the harness you added works. But if It's just tapping into wiring the resistance change should be negligible... Unless something on the other end of the harness, or the harness itself, is shorted or somehow damaged.

Something in the new harness is adding or removing resistance from one of the light circuits. Being the connectors are new, I would assume something internal to the harness, the electronics of the harness, or a mistake in the repinning.
Resistance that is the buzzword of the story. On one of the pins, i checked the retention strength of the harness female slot and found it low compared to the vw direct female plug, used one of the pin tools to apply light pressure to those two inward retaining clips Then it seemed normal and the connection is perfect. Thank you
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Since the Curt 56360 is no longer available, it appears that some owners have questions about installing the suggested Curt 56391. Here are some images and instructions on how to install the Curt 56391 (and Hopkins 47185) in a 2015 Golf Sportwagen TDI. Note that driver side and passenger side references are for North America.

The connector contact pins of the Curt 56391 wiring harness are arranged for plug-and-play with the 2017 Golf Alltrack and therefore the yellow (left turn) and green (right turn) wires of the harness are not in the necessary locations for the 2015 GSW. Relocating several of the contacts in the wiring harness is therefore necessary.


Image 01: Curt 56391 (labeled for 2017 VW Golf Alltrack) and a generic Hopkins 47185


The wiring of the Golf Sportwagen is multiplexed and the lights receive their commands via Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). It is my understanding that the signals are +0.5v for the tail position lights, +5.0v for the turn signal lights, +12.0v for the brake lights and that the relevant wires in the vehicle can be identified via back-probing using a fast response multi-meter. The wires can also be identified via the wiring diagram for the 2015 Golf Sportwagen. Specifically, the left turn signal in the vehicle is the 0.5mm schwarz/weiss (black with white tracer) wire as shown below.


Image 02: Image of left side wiring diagram for 2015 Golf Sportwagen


So, for the Curt 56391 harness connectors on the driver side, the yellow wire of the harness needs to be relocated (i.e. swapped with the relevant white wire) in order to match with the 2015 GSW vehicle wire that is black with a white tracer. Note that out of the box, the yellow wire is positioned in line with the black/red vehicle wire. The brown wire of the Curt harness conveniently remains in place – in line with the 2015 GSW vehicle wire that is gray with a black tracer (as shown below prior to swapping).


Image 03: Image of left side connector (before modification)


For the Curt 56391 harness connectors on the passenger side, the green wire of the harness needs to be relocated (again, swapped with the relevant white wire) in order to match with the 2015 GSW vehicle wire that is black with a green tracer. Note that out of the box, the green wire is located in line with the black/purple vehicle wire (as shown below prior to swapping).


Image 04: Image of right side connector (before modification)


Connector contact pin removal is easily accomplished via a proper VAG connector removal tool – some owners report successful improvising via grinding the tips of tweezers or reshaping small cotter pins. A pair of tools is available from IDParts (on back-order at the time of this writing) or a 3-piece tool kit (Schwaben 025682SCH01A) is available from ECS Tuning.


Image 05: Image of Schwaben 025682SCH01A tool kit


The removal tool is quite small – the grip size being about half that of a typical workshop screwdriver handle – but it works very well.


Image 06: Image of Schwaben tools


The tangs of the pin removal tool are inserted into small rectangular holes that straddle the contact that is to be removed. As the tangs are inserted, they push against two metal barbs on the sides of the contact, flexing the barbs inwards, thus allowing the contact and wire to be pulled out of the connector housing without the barbs catching (see photos by Nuje posted earlier in this thread). Note that the housings also have plastic latches on their exterior shells that need to be carefully pried upwards and unsnapped to allow the contacts and wires to be fully removed from the connector housing. Also note that the contacts do have a certain orientation and thus need to be re-inserted in their new locations correctly (in other words, don’t unintentionally clock the contacts by 90 degrees during re-insertion).


Image 07: Image of pin removal tool use


The trailer module can be mounted in several locations. My preference was to mount it to a flat region of sheet metal near the forward corner of the Styrofoam tool case. In addition to the adhesive-backed double-sided foam provided I also opted to mechanically fasten the module’s mounting tab to an existing hole in the vehicle’s interior sheet metal. The white ground wire of the module is anchored to a vehicle grounding post slightly forward of the module location (not visible in photos). Access to the threaded grounding post required partial removal of the trunk side panel. Positive power to the module is from the 12v accessory outlet on the opposite side of the trunk, as discussed elsewhere in this thread (in other words, I did not run a dedicated positive wire underneath the full length of the vehicle all the way from the battery). Tapping into the 12v accessory outlet is perfectly adequate since the vehicle will be used to tow trailers that are fitted with LED bulbs.


Image 08: Side access panel removed



Image 09: Detail of Curt trailer module installation



Image 10: Image of the installed left side (modified) connectors



Image 11: Image of the installed right side (modified) connectors


Instead of having the trailer ribbon cable and 4-pin connector lay loose in the trunk area, I preferred instead to have an exterior receptacle for both 4-pin SAE and 7-blade RV type plugs (note that for the 7-blade, only 4 of the contacts are being used). The bracket of a Hopkins 47185 was riveted to the lower surface of a Westfalia 317 132 600 001 towbar – to the left side of the hitch receiver. Enough spacing was provided to allow a 7-blade RV plug to be inserted without interference from the 50mm hitch. The Westfalia hitch is available from PF Jones in the UK.


Image 12: Hopkins 47185 mounted to the left of the hitch receiver



Image 13: View from below Hopkins 47185 showing routing of 4-conductor ribbon cable


Unlike the regular Golf, the Golf Sportwagen already has a cutout in the rear valance panel. However, the stock cutout extends very little on the driver side and quite far on the passenger side (in other words, the VW factory cutout is not centered with respect to the middle of the hitch). Since the Hopkins 47185 was fitted to the driver side, the size of the cutout on the left side was increased (to the same extent as the right side) in order to provide necessary room for the Hopkins receptacle.


Image 14: View from below bumper showing extended cutout in the rear valance panel
Phenomenal write-up, with excellent photos!
I wish there was a way to "sticky" a single post at the top of the Mk7 forum.
(If any mods are on this thread, "Trailer wiring for Mk7 GSW" would be a nice addition to the top of our Mk7 sub-forum. :) )
 

benettlr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2012
Location
Tennessee
TDI
2015 TDI Sportwagen
Phenomenal write-up, with excellent photos!
I wish there was a way to "sticky" a single post at the top of the Mk7 forum.
(If any mods are on this thread, "Trailer wiring for Mk7 GSW" would be a nice addition to the top of our Mk7 sub-forum. :) )
Thank you Nuje. Appreciate the compliment. Cheers.
 
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