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Old November 2nd, 2019, 17:39   #31
Grapeape
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Can anyone tell me the thread size of the 4 bolts and lengths I'm doing the same thing and I want to replace them with hex head bolts.
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Old November 2nd, 2019, 18:55   #32
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8X1.25X40mm I don't like to see them used here, but bolts with standard heads will usually work there too.
https://www.metalmanparts.com/produc...&categoryId=68
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Old November 3rd, 2019, 08:50   #33
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I want the hex head bolts but your link is replacing with them with allen key heads
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Old November 3rd, 2019, 09:43   #34
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You asked for thread pitch and length, and he gave you size, thread pitch, and length...that should suffice for you to go to your local Fastenal-type shop and find the right bolt.

(Note that some cars came with a shorter, 18mm-long bolt - 2003 wagon, I think, mostly.)
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Old November 3rd, 2019, 09:45   #35
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Yes I'm going there tomorrow I hope that's the right size for my 2005 jetta tdi
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Old November 3rd, 2019, 10:14   #36
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I just did a timing belt on a 2005, and the bolts were the longer ones.

One thing to be aware of is the hardness spec / metal alloy in the bolt.
I don't know what they are on these bolts, but they are torqued quite hard - 10Nm (sure, not much), but then an extra 90. And with a 1.25 thread pitch, that adds some serious torque.
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Last edited by Nuje; November 3rd, 2019 at 10:18.
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Old November 3rd, 2019, 10:25   #37
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Why not simply buy original bolts , they like $5 for all of them.
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Old November 3rd, 2019, 10:26   #38
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Because I hate the Allen key heads.
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Old November 4th, 2019, 11:11   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grapeape View Post
Because I hate the Allen key heads.
In my experience the bolts are not hard to take out if they are not overtorqued(common) or loctited down.

On all of my repeat customers I never have a problem with them. Almost all of the ones that I work on that didn't previously experience my golden touch are problematic.

I don't think you need a hex head bolt.
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Old November 4th, 2019, 17:15   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yahjnby View Post
By the was, I also had the problems with valve cover bolts. I used a no name bolt extractor kit with great success.

In photo below,

winners above:
No name kit for valve cover, 12pt 12mm socket for harmonic balancer.

Losers below:
Oversize torx, Milwaukee bolt extractor kit and a weird gritty goo from auto parts store.


Thank you for the advice and help.
I have used the Craftsman extractor set much like this set it works great every time.
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Old November 4th, 2019, 17:26   #41
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Last job I did, two were no problem with 6mm, two stripped out.

The "winner" from above quoted post saved the day.
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Old November 5th, 2019, 16:33   #42
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If I've done one, I've done a hundred...

First off, anyone who uses Loctite on almost ANY bolt in a VW, save the oil pump center bolt for the sprocket on ALH and later, should get one of the many torque spec sheets and learn to use it.

However, there are certain bolts which will always give you a problem and the harmonic balancer bolts are such an item.

The first thing is the right tool for the right job... We employ a hand impact driver with a 3/8" drive, although you can use 1/2", then add enough extensions to bring the head of the hand impact driver past the fender. That will keep you from whacking the fender when you are swinging a 5 lb sledge on the impact tool. The wheel does not need to be removed(turn it hard right), but the inner fender skirt and the pancake pipe need to be out of the way.

Use a quality 6mm allen socket. Using the extension(s) and sledge, hammer the socket screw HARD. Usually, I give it two or three good whacks. Then, twist the hand impact driver counterclockwise and strike repeatedly until the bolt comes loose. Repeat the process for the remaining screws. The advantage of the hand impact driver over any other tool is the bit is not only turned with impact force, but driven into the bolt at the same time. That keeps the tool from rising out of the hole and stripping the allen.

However, I find often enough I am not the first one to the bolt and there is often damage to the allen socket. Although you can buy the extractor tool kit, I have yet to purchase a set.

Instead, I have found that a 45 torx bit can be driven into the stripped allen. There will be some metal driven down into the socket hole from the points of the torx bit. With the proper sized drill, remove the metal that has been pushed into the hole and then, drive the 45 torx into the hole to it's full depth. The best torx to use looks very much like the one in the picture showing the extractor set, just above, in Post #40.

The beauty of using this method is that the screw actually becomes BETTER than it was originally. A Torx socketed bolt is very hard to strip and when using the hand impact hammer, comes out quickly and easily.

The bolts, now modified as a torx, are very sturdy. If you don't mind a bit of 'RedNeck' fix, this really does the trick.

If you don't have a hand impact hammer, you are missing a tool I consider indispensable for my shop.

If I get the chance, I'll add some pictures of the 'fix'. Seriously, I hate the 6mm allen for this size of fastener and it's location. I've tried to find that same bolt as a torx, or even a triple square(XZN), but so far, I've not found it available. So, I make them! Cold Forging...
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Old November 5th, 2019, 17:02   #43
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^^^
When I discovered the hand impact driver a few years ago, it was like the heavens opened to shine happy light on me.

This is the one I bought, and it's bailed my butt out of more than one or two situations - like the little T30 screw that holds the brake rotor in place.

The T45 that Frank was referencing (from photo above):
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Old November 6th, 2019, 08:27   #44
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Nuje,

Have we met? I know a bicycle repair shop owner/ employee that is on an island near Vancouver.

Yes, thanks for the 'arrow'. If it weren't for the impact driver, I'd be stopped in my tracks several times (a day). That Tekton is pretty and shiny. My driver is beat to crap with the end mushroomed from the pounding it's taken.
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Old November 6th, 2019, 11:47   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franko6 View Post
If I've done one, I've done a hundred...

First off, anyone who uses Loctite on almost ANY bolt in a VW, save the oil pump center bolt for the sprocket on ALH and later, should get one of the many torque spec sheets and learn to use it.

However, there are certain bolts which will always give you a problem and the harmonic balancer bolts are such an item.

The first thing is the right tool for the right job... We employ a hand impact driver with a 3/8" drive, although you can use 1/2", then add enough extensions to bring the head of the hand impact driver past the fender. That will keep you from whacking the fender when you are swinging a 5 lb sledge on the impact tool. The wheel does not need to be removed(turn it hard right), but the inner fender skirt and the pancake pipe need to be out of the way.

Use a quality 6mm allen socket. Using the extension(s) and sledge, hammer the socket screw HARD. Usually, I give it two or three good whacks. Then, twist the hand impact driver counterclockwise and strike repeatedly until the bolt comes loose. Repeat the process for the remaining screws. The advantage of the hand impact driver over any other tool is the bit is not only turned with impact force, but driven into the bolt at the same time. That keeps the tool from rising out of the hole and stripping the allen.

However, I find often enough I am not the first one to the bolt and there is often damage to the allen socket. Although you can buy the extractor tool kit, I have yet to purchase a set.

Instead, I have found that a 45 torx bit can be driven into the stripped allen. There will be some metal driven down into the socket hole from the points of the torx bit. With the proper sized drill, remove the metal that has been pushed into the hole and then, drive the 45 torx into the hole to it's full depth. The best torx to use looks very much like the one in the picture showing the extractor set, just above, in Post #40.

The beauty of using this method is that the screw actually becomes BETTER than it was originally. A Torx socketed bolt is very hard to strip and when using the hand impact hammer, comes out quickly and easily.

The bolts, now modified as a torx, are very sturdy. If you don't mind a bit of 'RedNeck' fix, this really does the trick.

If you don't have a hand impact hammer, you are missing a tool I consider indispensable for my shop.

If I get the chance, I'll add some pictures of the 'fix'. Seriously, I hate the 6mm allen for this size of fastener and it's location. I've tried to find that same bolt as a torx, or even a triple square(XZN), but so far, I've not found it available. So, I make them! Cold Forging...
I have one of those impact hammers for many many years. Never used it in a very long time. I will start so thanks for the tip.
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