Good WVO Oil/Source?

Jolly

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Location
Batavia NY
TDI
MKIV Golf 5
Bought a '99 A4 Jetta w/ 250k miles a few weeks ago with Greasecar kit. Trying to do my homework on running WVO before I start putting together a system for processing the oil. I might have found a good fuel source; local pizzeria in town uses "Wesson Smart Choice - Cottonseed/Canola Oil Blend" (besides cottonseed and canola oil, ingredients include TBHQ and metyl silicone). I believe that Canola oil is pretty good for BD and WVO, what about cottonseed oil? I haven't read to much about that.
 

philngrayce

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2004
Location
Connecticut
TDI
'02 Jetta, '06 Jetta, Both Gone '13 Leaf, Gone Liberty CRD, Subaru Forrester and MB300SD
Welcome. That oil should work fine. Just make sure you clean and dewater it.
Is the WVO tank empty now? If so, look out for polymerization and condensation. It might be wise to clean it out well, then keep VO (new if necessary) or diesel in it. If you decide to use diesel, make sure it is vented overboard (it reallly should be for VO too) and shut off the heat to the tank.
 

T'sTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Location
Maryland
TDI
2001 Jetta
Bought a '99 A4 Jetta w/ 250k miles a few weeks ago with Greasecar kit. Trying to do my homework on running WVO before I start putting together a system for processing the oil. I might have found a good fuel source; local pizzeria in town uses "Wesson Smart Choice - Cottonseed/Canola Oil Blend" (besides cottonseed and canola oil, ingredients include TBHQ and metyl silicone). I believe that Canola oil is pretty good for BD and WVO, what about cottonseed oil? I haven't read to much about that.

Much like Phil has stated, the most important aspects to your oil of choice is filtered properly and making sure it is dry.

For all extensive purposes, the differences within oils doesn't attribute to much when your heating it to lower viscosity. I haven't seen any study showing that X oil does better in a converted kit better than Y. Also, when your dealing with WVO, I'm not a scientist, but I'm fairly certain polymers and branched chains that make up the oil itself are broken down through excessive heating. Most oils break down at a certain temperature and most all fryers exceed that temperature, thus causing free fatty acids... (an even worse for your health, trans fats :eek:) Cetane values, Iodine values, and measurements of viscosity are all changed at this point.

There is no scientific proof to this, but in our experience, highly used and burned WVO is less viscous than new oil or lightly used oil. It takes weeks for lightly used oil (FFA testing 6 and below) for the water to seperate out. Highly used oil in my experience has shown to be less viscous and for our purposes of achieving atomization and quality combustion is a very good thing. As far as acids within the IP and injectors themselves, this has yet to readly be determined. I believe there may be a correlation between highly acidic oil and premature wear on IP and injectors. (This is only a theory however and will probably remain that way). FWIW, I run blends of highly acidic and low acidic oil in my car and in my fathers powerstroke and 40k on his truck and almost 25k on my car has yielded no ill effects.

Its funny this topic was brought up because together my father and I have burned a couple varietys of oil (corn, canola and peanut). We noticed a huge increase in on tap power with peanut oil versus the other oils we have ran in the past. This was lightly used oil. It was literally a 10-20 HP noticeable "seat-of-pants" effect. This would lead me to believe that oil that hasn't had the beejesus used out of it might retain some of its chemical structure and makeup. More on tap power would lead me to believe that the peanut oil we used had a much higher cetane value (more readily able to combust) than any oil we tried running in the past. Higher cetane equals a more volitile combustion and more power. (Some people notice the same effects with fuel treatments such as dieselkleen).

By the way, if your car came converted with a kit... You might want to make sure your car is running the way it should and do a once over check with a trusted mechanic. As I've stated in my guide, if you start off with a well running, well maintaned car, your opportunities for a successful conversion increase in a big way.

Good Luck to you and Happy Greasing!
 

Benny and the Jetta

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Location
Silverthorne, CO
TDI
1998 Jetta
Hey there, Jolly! I'm going to venture a guess that you bought this car from my father in Canandaigua. I always liked it. :) At any rate, I can attest that it was operated "properly" on WVO. Filtration was good (1 micron), and I hot pan tested the oil on multiple occasions and found no water. Switchovers and purges were conservative. I believe the WVO tank was kept full and hardly used in the coldest months. Please, please read both T's and Arnie's guides thoroughly ("Comprehensive/Technical" and "Almost Properly," stickied at the top of this forum). I'd love to see this car make it many more miles. In addition to your filtering and dewatering, I'd recommend UOAs, having someone balance the injectors (not sure if they've ever been done, and might need rebuilding after 250k even without WVO use), and the FTS resistor mod. Look up Diesel Fuel Injection Service in Portland, OR for the injectors. It seems like that package is minimum for promoting long term success. Feel free to ask lots of questions. Best of luck, and please keep us posted!
 
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