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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old April 9th, 2018, 07:20   #46
bwk9087
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Well I still have not figured out what that top fitting is for, hooked up the fishbowl to the one below it, the 5/16", and it bled the coolant system. I have got it started, and running. All guages work, getting a starter whine after start, like it is too close, trying to figure what to do there, buy gonna try a manual starter button first to make sure jeep ecu isn't holding it in, without a crank signal. Adjusted static pump timing to the upper portion of graph like DBW wants, according to paperwork. My fueling is software limited, so I ordered the security bit to adjust pump, waiting on that. Coolant is leaking a little while running, out of the water pump, didn't do that a year ago, when running the jetta, rusted up on seal? Waiting on timing belt kit from Idparts. Can't get a tach signal using the Dakota Digital box, so, working on the trigger wheel to mount to front of harmonic balancer, like a lot of the people swapping ls motors in the jk jeeps do. Alternator charges, but without the crank signal, I don't get smart charging, I guess, and thus the battery light in dash. Had coolant leak, in the block I made, so I removed it for now. Still cold here in Michigan, and snow on ground, but it should be soon, where we have good weather. It moves, pulled it out, and turned it around, to bring back into garage, so I can run with exhaust out the door. That is is for now.
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Old April 9th, 2018, 17:23   #47
Motohead1
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Try a 16th inch washer under the starter flange bolt holes to push it away from the flywheel and see if the noise goes away. I had a similar issue and there was a design change to the flange to fix it. Turns out the starter drive dimensions changed ever so slightly in a batch. Contact Randy and he can get you the revised starter flange if that is the case.
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Old April 9th, 2018, 18:04   #48
bwk9087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motohead1 View Post
Try a 16th inch washer under the starter flange bolt holes to push it away from the flywheel and see if the noise goes away. I had a similar issue and there was a design change to the flange to fix it. Turns out the starter drive dimensions changed ever so slightly in a batch. Contact Randy and he can get you the revised starter flange if that is the case.

I would like it more if it were this easy. I used the HPA adapter, and a starter from 2005 passat, which is face mounted, so, not a good way I can see to move it away, without a little machining, or grinding. I still am thinking, or hoping, it is being held in, by Jeep ecu, because I don't have my two sensors working, ckp, and cmp, as I have balancer off, and have not tried the remote switch to verify this.
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Old April 9th, 2018, 18:20   #49
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Ahhh my fault. Thought you where using the tdconversion adapter. Lots of builds going on. yea sounds like a bump switch will be the best bet to find out whats going on.
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Old April 14th, 2018, 09:58   #50
bwk9087
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Alright, got my bit to adjust fueling, did that, set to 4.8-5, in range dbw recommended. Got tach working, by adding tone ring to harmonic balancer, and using jeep crank sensor.

Everything seemed to be ok ,so I took it out for a drive. Had severe boost leaks, and limp mode. I was only able to get up to 12 psi . Everything seems to work. Went and grabbed some pvc fitting to put inline and test my boost piping, with regulated air.

I couldn't get over 5 psi without leaking. It was more my noobness with doing this, as I now realize you have to crank the clamps down really hard, and I had a leak at my map bung weld. I eventually was able to test all the way up to 40 psi, even though my tune should only go to 28. Starting it back up, my brand new n75 valve failed, so I put in the original from Jetta, and it seems much better. My coolant leak from water pump is bad now, so I will be moving to timing belt change now, before any more drives, once my back feels better, since I just tweaked it wrestling my 4r70w trans to put in my mustang, because 1 project is not challenging enough. I do have a start and run video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFl9lLR1wdg
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Old April 15th, 2018, 07:46   #51
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OK, now I'm curious.
What is the tone ring from? Is the crank sensor the one that was normally reading the flywheel?
Did you do anything with the cam sensor?
I have the stock flywheel and sensor but tach does not work.
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Old April 15th, 2018, 08:19   #52
bwk9087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evguy1 View Post
OK, now I'm curious.
What is the tone ring from? Is the crank sensor the one that was normally reading the flywheel?
Did you do anything with the cam sensor?
I have the stock flywheel and sensor but tach does not work.
Ok, I already had the factory jeep cam sensor mounted reading the factory 3.8 cam ring off the motor, modified to fit on the power steering pulley. The tone ring for crank I used is this one.

It does not work the way it comes, I had to make it match the original, like this, off another forum, showing correct rotation, and teeth. So I cut out teeth, and welded up two to make it look like the ones in picture below.

I tried it, with just the original jeep crank sensor, with cam sensor backed off, no go. Once I moved the cam sensor into position, tach came alive.
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Old April 15th, 2018, 08:40   #53
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I sort of thought it was a cam sensor issue as I have run into that on other swaps. I have tried a Digital Dakota box to try and fake it but maybe I need a cam sensor like you did. Really glad you tried with the cam sensor backed off, proves the theory.
So your original crank sensor was not on the flywheel like my 08?
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Old April 15th, 2018, 09:01   #54
bwk9087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evguy1 View Post
I sort of thought it was a cam sensor issue as I have run into that on other swaps. I have tried a Digital Dakota box to try and fake it but maybe I need a cam sensor like you did. Really glad you tried with the cam sensor backed off, proves the theory.
So your original crank sensor was not on the flywheel like my 08?
Yes, it was, but the hpa design removes the tone ring, and the starter is placed in the position where the crank sensor was, so no option there. I would have bought your design, sounds easier to me!
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Old April 16th, 2018, 13:19   #55
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I'm confused, why not use the ECU's tachometer signal?
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Old April 17th, 2018, 06:00   #56
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Originally Posted by Hasenwerk View Post
I'm confused, why not use the ECU's tachometer signal?

From what I have learned, the computer has to see that specific crank pattern on the crank sensor to activate the tach.
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Old April 17th, 2018, 21:01   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwk9087 View Post
From what I have learned, the computer has to see that specific crank pattern on the crank sensor to activate the tach.
So looks like they used the 32-1 wheel for the crank? what did the cam wheel look like? is it asymmetrical?

I ask as my dodge was looking for a 16-1 crank signal and a asymmetric cam signal. (you can make the tach fire up by just touching the cam signal randomly to ground a few times to wake up the tach) I ended up using a dakota digital tach box that had just enough resolution to spit out the crank signal and also had a port to half that signal that I used for the cam all fed from the VW ecu output.

If the cam signal is similar on your setup a dakota digital box would work but you would need the speedo box as it would have enough resolution for the 32-1

But again the tone ring setup will work just fine also and be accurate. My setup is about 80rpm low.
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Old April 18th, 2018, 02:42   #58
bwk9087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motohead1 View Post
So looks like they used the 32-1 wheel for the crank? what did the cam wheel look like? is it asymmetrical?
I ask as my dodge was looking for a 16-1 crank signal and a asymmetric cam signal. (you can make the tach fire up by just touching the cam signal randomly to ground a few times to wake up the tach) I ended up using a dakota digital tach box that had just enough resolution to spit out the crank signal and also had a port to half that signal that I used for the cam all fed from the VW ecu output.
If the cam signal is similar on your setup a dakota digital box would work but you would need the speedo box as it would have enough resolution for the 32-1
But again the tone ring setup will work just fine also and be accurate. My setup is about 80rpm low.
The cam ring is a 3 1 2 3 2 1 pattern. I tried while running to back off on the cam sensor, and tach stops, so I guess I need it. I tried the dsl-1e box, but could not get it to work for crank either. Oh well, this works, and is done.
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Old April 18th, 2018, 19:19   #59
Motohead1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwk9087 View Post
The cam ring is a 3 1 2 3 2 1 pattern. I tried while running to back off on the cam sensor, and tach stops, so I guess I need it. I tried the dsl-1e box, but could not get it to work for crank either. Oh well, this works, and is done.

Yea the 1e box only has enough resolution to do a 16-1 signal at a 4cyl output. anything with more teeth the speedo box they have is needed. I spent a good amount of time with them on the phone to figure it out.

Awesome you got it worked out. Thats the great thing about solving these problems as there is usually more than 1 way to get it working.
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Old April 28th, 2018, 18:51   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motohead1 View Post
Lookin good. Where exactly is that map sensor in the intercooler piping? Interested to see how you like the GTB1756VK.
Same here. Love to see picture of the map sensor location.
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