Landmer,
I agree, this thread is too long. I should create a synopsis, but it's a time thing.
The label you have is different than the US version. It appears the number is '132', but I don't think it is an OEM marking That was done with a Sharpie or similar marker. I don't think your marks on the label mean anything. Maybe someone wrote when a timing belt job was done... 132k kilometers?
What we usually see are very faint pencil marking from the factory, where the technician running the dyno marks the outcome. In the US label, there is a small white box in the upper right corner of the label. That shows the Netwon Meters (Nm) of torque. The larger box to the left of the Nm box, on our US timing cover label shows the initial Torsion Value (VCDS/engine module/ measuring blocks/ Block 4), set at the factory. The tech was very sloppy and even if you could see it, it was hard to make out. His 1's looks like a 7's. The decimal point is as Europeans use, a comma. But being pencil, sometimes we were using a magnifying glass and looking at the dents in the paper. The point is, the best starting point is what the tech set at the factory.
If, however, you have made any changes to the crank sensor, sprocket bolt and sprocket, cam, the chances are that you have moved the reference points. The crank sensor can be off a degree and still work. The crank sprocket can move about the same against the flat in the crank. So, any starting point marked on the timing belt label after any major block or cylinder head changes are useless.
As Vekke stated, the torsion value is the number that works. There is no exact figure, as any change in the crank or cam will alter the best torsion value. We have seen +5.7 and - 4.2 work. But as little as .5+/- can make a 4 mpg difference....Don't ask me to do liter/ km conversions... But 4mpg equates to approximately a 10% variance in fuel economy (FE). So, taking the time to get a proper Torsion Value is important.
