Looking for: BRM Auxiliary Heater in good working condition...

send me a pm if you have one, and how much?

- shipping to Canada (Postal Code is N0B 2M1)

Thanks,
Peter

What's wrong with yours? Have you tried re-soldering the resistors?

Yeah, twice or three times.... I can't get the heater to stay on for more than a couple minutes then it shuts off and then I can't command it back on either with the dial or vcds.

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Good time for a Webasto install!

I found a 2006 Jetta tdi in the u pull it near Listowel.

Took about 30 minutes in the yard and was able to get the aux heater out. $20 plus a $5 core charge.

Got it home and vcds said it was defective, but I could get the heater to be commanded on with the vcds, just only to about 600w.

I am now think a defective fault is different than intermittent fault on vcds.

Took the junk yard heater back out and tried resoldering the resistors twice.... Got it working now hopefully. Measuring blocks on the last 4 cold start trips indicates that it is working as it hopefully should....

My original aux heater was giving both intermittent and defective codes.

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Update: junkyard heater working well after resolder.

I rechecked the aux heater again this past Monday (Dec 17). No codes at all - measuring blocks indicate it is putting up to 70amps of heat.

My terminal 30 voltage is a little low. It only goes up to about 13.8v while driving... my radar detector is set to display voltage, and through the 12v cabin outlet I am getting 14.4v.

I need to figure out where this voltage drop is coming from. I cleaned the contacts where the 100amp fuse is in the hood... I guess I could get a couple hundred more watts of heat if I can up the voltage a bit...

Might be worth cleaning all ground contacts you can find. There are schematics in this website somewhere.

Auxiliary heater,..... Take #9

We'll not quite, but it seems that way... Had a cold snap last weekend and work to go to on Monday, and my aux heater quit working again, gave faults of either defective or intermittent communication.

On Monday morning when it was - 20c I took the laptop out to the car and was able to force the heater on with the output test on vcds... I drove to work that way and kept the heater on until the car warmed up...

I then began to research other ways to reflow SMD (SURFACE MOUNT DEVICES) on YouTube, and came up with hot air resoldering, solder flux, heat guns...

I ordered a heat gun from Amazon (might be useful for other projects) with accessory nozzles for $40,and a syringe of solder paste....

The gist of it s, you try to use the hot airgun to heat the component, and board and solder paste to about 200C until the little balls of solder melt and form a good bond....

Had today off, and was able to get it fixed again, hopefully for longer this time....

Here's a pic of the setup and one of the 2 auxiliary heaters I've collected trying to get this thing working....

Took a test drive at - 8C with laptop plugged in and looking at measured values, and heat is back... Hope it lasts...



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