timing belt

I just did the tb on my 02 Jetta. After I dialed in the injection pump with my new VCDS I took a test drive. I have a lack of power. I think the crank and the cam must not be in time? Cam and injection pump were locked in but I couldn't find the flywheel mark on my manual transmission. I used the dot on the front of the crank and lined it up with the raised metal up above the crank. I saw a guy in a video use this first of three dots on the front of the crank. I think this is where I screwed up. I would appreciate any feed back. First time posting I hope I did this right

Yup, really need to find the mark on the flywheel.

The dots on the front are on a much smaller circumference circle, so much less accurate. You can use them to tell you you should be getting close to finding the flywheel mark, but that's about it.

you really need the lock tools to do it proper. mark and pray has been disastrous for some.

Even if the flywheel is somewhat rusty, the embossed '-0' will be visible on the flywheel. (OK, the dash is below the '0' not on the side, but that's what's available on my keyboard.) If you line up the crank with the marks by the front, then the flywheel mark should be easy to find.

An alternative would be to pull the glowplug on cylinder #1 and use some kind of probe to find where the piston is at TDC.

That said, sometimes it is hard to find. I've spent quite a bit of time myself in trying to find the TDC mark. On my own cars, when I need to mess with it, I try and use some white paint close to the mark on each side, with some kind of slope or other pointy pattern to help me find it next time. Anything will work: nail polish, whiteout - just something that will provide a good contrast for the next time you have a timing problem.

At this point, since you've already set things, you should be able to line up the cam to TDC, then check the injection pump and crank. Since it runs, the injection pump should be very close to the cam. The crank should also be within a couple of flywheel teeth. If it is very far out, you run the risk of bumping valves.

If you have a set of timing belt tools, this is a piece of cake. If not, then find a set before attempting a correction. You will save yourself lots of time and headaches if you get the tools first. Seriously, they are well worth the expense. They will pay for themselves with just this one use.

Cheers,

PH

This time when I did my timing belt I remembered how frustrating it was
to find the mark by myself. This time I used a small viewing scope that
runs into a laptop. I pointed the camera at the flywheel and put the
laptop under the car where I could see it and rotated the crank until the
timing mark came into view. No more up and down for these old bones.

How did the timing look on VCDS before you adjusted it? That timing was using the crank position sensor.

golfclub said:

This time when I did my timing belt I remembered how frustrating it was
to find the mark by myself. This time I used a small viewing scope that
runs into a laptop. I pointed the camera at the flywheel and put the
laptop under the car where I could see it and rotated the crank until the
timing mark came into view. No more up and down for these old bones.

Click to expand...

Those things are quite handy! I have one myself I got cheap off EBay. Works good for everything I have used it for.

Thanks for your replies. I bought the tools and I am glad I did. It took an hour on the phone this morning to get my VCDS working. The first reading was too advanced. I had both the injection pump pinned and cam locked with valve cover off but I just couldn't find that flywheel mark when I timed it. Yes I can see now how I got close but not close enough. Tomorrow I will try to clean the flywheel and find that mark. Hmm... I will need to change the clutch soon. Car has 326k. Maybe I could find that mark with the clutch out?? At least I should be able to clean that flywheel up. Whats a good clutch to buy? Doesn't look like I am going anywhere for a while anyway. I just bought a Smyth Beetle Ute kit and an 01 donor Beetle. Can't start on it until I fix this Jetta.

Good clutch: the LUK 17-050 package. About $200USD, includes clutch and flywheel. And can hold significantly more torque than the stock clutch.

Maybe careful application of some sandpaper on a stick while it's running to clean it up?

Does that Luk flywheel have the mark? I've seen where some aftermarket don't.

If not one should transfer the mark before installing.

I just put one on my 2003 Golf - mark was plain as day (I did add some paint, though, because it's so hard to get a clean look at it).

Some of the aftermarket G60 flywheels didn't have a TDC mark for some reason. Always find your marks and lock the pump and cam before removing the belt. I also do just as above and put my own mark on the flywheel so there is no doubt that I am looking at the correct mark. At this point the marks on the pulley and belt cover will work just fine for you.

Ok, I advanced crank about one tooth on the flywheel. Car has more power but still not right. Is the crank supposed to be at exactly TDC with Cam and IP locked in? Four years ago I replaced the head on my 1997 Dodge Cummins. I think I set the timing 17 degress before TDC with a dial indicator in the number one barrel of the IP. I ordered the Luk 17-050 today. I called Luk Tech Support. I asked if their flywheel had a timing mark. He said that in 20 years he had never been asked that question? I think I might end up with two flywheels and no mark. Could a lack of vacuum cause a problem? I have had the pump on and off several times now.

The LUK has a mark. I put some white fingernail polish (house full of girls) on my daughters when I did her clutch so it’s easier to find.

See my link (I mean, photo) above - that's the 17-050 flywheel; you can see the one of the marks of the "-0-" under the paint.

parkinglot60625 said:

Is the crank supposed to be at exactly TDC with Cam and IP locked in?

Click to expand...

Yes, and it's dangerous to have the flywheel much off TDC (in error) as valves can meet pistons.

There's a method of making the timing mark using a valve as a piston stop. If you're interested I can describe the process.

Without a known good TDC mark you'll going to be forever guessing, unfortunately.

Yes , I saw the 0- in your reply but thought that was only on the auto transmission. Glad to hear the Luk has a mark. thanks

Glad to know there is a process to find mark. I am going to change the flywheel with a new Luk when it gets here. I would still like to know the process. Thanks

parkinglot60625 said:

Yes , I saw the 0- in your reply but thought that was only on the auto transmission. Glad to hear the Luk has a mark. thanks

Click to expand...

The "window" to see the TDC flywheel mark on the automatic is rectangular...and you look to put the mark at the forward-most (toward the front of the car) edge of that window.

The 5MT is right in the middle of the circular "window" - there's a little "widow's peak" at the top of the window/bellhousing there to confirm where "middle" is.

Nuje said:

See my link above - that's the 17-050 flywheel; you can see the one of the marks of the "-0-" under the paint.

Click to expand...

I don't see any link in any of your posts above.

Yes, I put paint on that "widows peak" and what I thought might be a very faint timing mark. I used the crank lock, cam lock and IP lock. I used my vcds and ended up with a car that is real close but not on the right mark. Unless something else is wrong? Does the Luk flywheel have the 0- timing mark rather than a just a straight line?

Lightflyer1 said:

I don't see any link in any of your posts above.

Click to expand...

Sorry - "photo" in my post above.

parkinglot60625 said:

Does the Luk flywheel have the 0- timing mark rather than a just a straight line?

Click to expand...

My flywheel had a "-o-" IIRC - if you were standing/looking from the front of the car (as opposed to the side).
(Location of automatic TDC location shown in lower diagram)