UAwelder52
New member
I have a 96 Passat with 1z, is there an option to put a 100k mile timing belt on it? Id parts only shows 60k mile belt.
IIRC belt lengths go something like this:my understanding is the 100k belt is longer or something like that...not reverse compatible to the MK3s...I could be wrong...
60K is the change intervals for the belts on the A3/B4. And I've done dozens of B4/A3 timing belts, if you're changing a timing belt in 30 minutes you're skipping a whole bunch of steps and taking risky shortcuts.NO. stick with quality belts and change it every 70-80K. it takes me 30 minutes to change mine on my 1z. my oil changes take longer than that!
right/ 60K, my bad60K is the change intervals for the belts on the A3/B4. And I've done dozens of B4/A3 timing belts, if you're changing a timing belt in 30 minutes you're skipping a whole bunch of steps and taking risky shortcuts.
Probably just human nature. Most off the cuff estimated are usually off by 100% or more.60K is the change intervals for the belts on the A3/B4. And I've done dozens of B4/A3 timing belts, if you're changing a timing belt in 30 minutes you're skipping a whole bunch of steps and taking risky shortcuts.
The coolant is supposed to be lifetime, and I had a bad rash of new water pumps, and not the cheap variety, about 10 years ago that caused me to change my thinking on the water pumps. Since that time I have yet to do a water pump a second time, with some still going strong over 200,000 miles. They can be changed without removing the timing belt but honestly, doing the timing belt is so easy I never found the need.with these water pumps i always change it with belt, they usually also have a life of about 60k or 6years. makes it easier all around. -oh and about then fresh coolant isnt a bad idea.
I rarely have to change the IM shaft seal. I have had a few weeping oil but like the crank seal, if it's not leaking, I don't mess with it since it can create more problems down the road that didn't exist prior.a comprehensive list, the first part of the list maybe is missing at least one step, a new IM shaft seal, and o-ring.
There is no 'checking' the crank seal or bolt. They get replaced if they are suspect. It's an easy job and I've done my fair share. If the timing is moving, and it's easy to check with the timing belt lock tools, then it gets replaced and only adds another 10 minutes to the timing belt job.when needed a crank seal, that requires a flange gasket, and a new crank bolt. and tools to install(bolt). on the older cars a crank seal would be changed more regularly, like every timing belt would be advised. these cars i dont see that, but it must be checked, and now is the time to do it.
I never warm up the car and have not found the need. VCDS does read the timing regardless of temperature and I have not had it move much when setting the timing cold. If it's out of spec a lot I'll adjust the pump and then do a final check when warm but it doesn't move that much to warrant a second adjustment. I did not include releasing the tension on the IP hard lines, you're correct about that and it's definitely preferred.for the second part of the list, your just missing the fact after starting car, it ll need to warm up, to about, at least 80dg C, for VCDS to read.
oh yea and after final timing adjustment of pump, loosen all 8 injector line connections, retighten.
I bought one of those kits once but ended up with so many spare parts it wasn't worth the extra. I keep a TON of spare parts on hand (some are NLA now as well) to counter anything that should arise, with some reason. I've even had people travel hours to get a part from me on a Sunday when they ran into issues.didnt someone post not too long ago one of those *complete timing kits? it was everything youd need to do a complete timing job, and youd end up having parts left over it was so many. like every stud you also would need to complete the job.