String Method Front End Alignment

Just replaced both tie rod ends on my B4 sedan and am going to try a front end alignment using the string method . Front of car is up on jackstands now which makes it a lot easier to access the outer tie rod to make adjustments. Does the car need to have all 4 wheels down on the ground when using the string method? Thanks

ejallison1 said:

Just replaced both tie rod ends on my B4 sedan and am going to try a front end alignment using the string method . Front of car is up on jackstands now which makes it a lot easier to access the outer tie rod to make adjustments. Does the car need to have all 4 wheels down on the ground when using the string method? Thanks

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All four wheels should be on a flat surface with the weight of the car on them. You can use 4 ramps (or equivalent) but put a square ceramic tile under the font two tires to allow them to move easier when you adjust the tie rod. Car should be level and the steering wheel not locked in place (key on).

i used the string method before. a couple of things to consider.
1, in most cars i ve seen you wont be able to measure both the front and the back of the tire at the same height. the motor and/or the fender come down around the front. you want the measurement at the same height front & back side of tires. its been a while, so i cannt remember each step as well. take a tape measure and measure from a floor. good flat concrete is preferable. measure up and mark. also you ll want to measure on the same spot on a tire, both and front and back. i took a easy spot on the tire tread, a middle tread, -an edge. put your height mark here. all 4 measurements being and aprox the same spot on both tires, on a flat floor.
another thing is to get the 1st tire so its pointing straight, right off my head i dont know how. if you take both tires and measure like i say above, they will point 'straight' but the first side/tire you take a measurement off of will not be as set headed straight. if that 1st side/tire(lets say the drivers side) you can get pointed straight,--then measure (to) the other side you ll get close to -'straight'. if not (as i say above) both will probably be at an angle to point straight. (my point is because the old mk2s, still have a few, the factory drivers tie rod was solid, it didnt have a serviceable end. so it would already be straight).<that made it easy.

I made my own wheel stands out of 2x12s and some scrap lumber. If the tires are level and all 4 are sitting on stands then you can do this. you must have the car resting on all 4 tires.

You need to have the car sitting on it's wheels and if you do not have turnplates you need to roll the car a ways to get everything at rest.

Thanks guys. I am going to place all four wheels on the ground and contort myself to make the necessary adjustments. I will place some ceramic tiles under the front two wheels. Really like the idea of starting with the one front and back tire on one side straight. Seems logical for making less work. If steering wheel needs adjustment after completing this I will take the steering wheel off and rotate it. I have completely redone the front end as well as the ignition switch. I didn't mark the sterring wheel so it is probably off a little anyway.

Isn't the steering wheel kinda splined so you can't clock it exactly how you want?

I have had the steering wheel off a few times on both A3's and B4's when changing out the ignition switch. There must be like a 100 little splines on that steering rod. The tutorial on ignition switches even recommends marking it before taking steering wheel off so can get it back in exact same place.

like i had posted above, one if you can first get one tire to 'point straight ahead', then using you shop method, make opposite tire, wheel, 'straight' to the first. then on a very flat surface, have some rolling space/area. start motor, and in 1st, slip clutch a little, with hands off steering wheel(and wheel at apparent straight) let roll some, with out having brakes move steering. (perhaps use, not a lot, or too much, emergency brake) come to a stop, check, you should be pretty close to actual straight. again this has to be on a flat floor. preferably concrete. now you can take steering wheel off splines, and set straight. now take for a little test drive, and see if that and your work is straight.
come to think of it, before you do this little roll, probably need to loosen steering wheel nut.

iluvmydiesels said:

like i had posted above, one if you can first get one tire to 'point straight ahead', then using you shop method, make opposite tire, wheel, 'straight' to the first. then on a very flat surface, have some rolling space/area. start motor, and in 1st, slip clutch a little, with hands off steering wheel(and wheel at apparent straight) let roll some, with out having brakes move steering. (perhaps use, not a lot, or too much, emergency brake) come to a stop, check, you should be pretty close to actual straight. again this has to be on a flat floor. preferably concrete. now you can take steering wheel off splines, and set straight. now take for a little test drive, and see if that and your work is straight.
come to think of it, before you do this little roll, probably need to loosen steering wheel nut.

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We are going to give this a try right after we finished installing the new bumper and fender flares plus a couple of led light bars on the current truck project. My buddy brought his B4 Sedan the shop for the alignment.

its been a while since i ve done one.
1:when you start take off steering nut, then make wheel is loose on splines.
when you stop i suppose you can use the pedal brakes, however any movement (in steering) will throw this off. use pedal lightly, come to a stop.
an alignment shop can get wheel fairly straight.