Confused about proper torque spec-LuK LFW134 Flywheel

Hey folks,

I'm hoping I didn't screw this up - First time doing a clutch. Installing the Luk LFW134 flywheel I looked all over for the correct torque specs on the flywheel bolt and it seemed like the most reliable info was 1st stage: 22 ft/lbs, 2nd stage: 44 ft/lbs, and then final stage: a 1/4 turn...I did all this so ended up at 44 ft/lbs plus that last quarter turn which had me nervous as hell they would snap it felt like so much resistance at that point.

Now I'm wondering, did I misinterpret the directions? Were those instructions for 2 different types of flywheels? Single and Dual mass? I certainly hope not.

I arrived at this conclusion because pressure plate bolts seem to have different specs depending on whether it's single or dual, 10 ft/lbs and 15 ft/lbs.

If I should have stayed at 22 ft/lbs can I safely back the bolts out a bit now that they've been stretched? 22 ft/lbs doesn't sound like enough for critical bolts like this.

You have a lot more than 22 ft lbs on those bolts....
I wouldn't sweat it. Sounds good and tight to me.
I impact mine on and also reuse torque to yield bolts, and green antifreeze......I'm an outlaw. Lol

I do blue loctite the flywheel bolts

Only as 1/4 turn? I've always done 90 degrees! Its a scary 90 degrees but I've never broke one.

I don't know the numbers but it seems like you did the homework and got the correct info.
Stretch bolts and some bearing hold downs have torque sequence, most plain fasteners just have torque spec.

you got it right ... 22>44+1/4 turn or 90 degrees

Thanks for clarifying folks. Unfortunately tranny isn't going back on today. Came to find one of the plastic clips on the throwout bearing in my clutch kit was broken during shipment. Have another one on order. Have to say the plastic does not seem an improvement on the original metal-I don't get that change.

intro said:

Thanks for clarifying folks. Unfortunately tranny isn't going back on today. Came to find one of the plastic clips on the throwout bearing in my clutch kit was broken during shipment. Have another one on order. Have to say the plastic does not seem an improvement on the original metal-I don't get that change.

Click to expand...

they only break during shipping and i've only had a few broken in over a hundred clutches recieved ... never an issue installed... the plastic body RB is as good or better than the metal bearings

jimbote said:

they only break during shipping and i've only had a few broken in over a hundred clutches recieved ... never an issue installed... the plastic body RB is as good or better than the metal bearings

Click to expand...

So go ahead and install? Won't feel any difference with extra play down there?

intro said:

So go ahead and install? Won't feel any difference with extra play down there?

Click to expand...

not what i implied... it needs to be replaced if broken

jimbote said:

not what i implied... it needs to be replaced if broken

Click to expand...

Gotcha, I misunderstood.

Guys, I'm sorry but I have another few questions now that I've finally gotten the transmission back on after spending a couple of hours lining everything up.

I'm seeing different torque specs for the side transmission mount, transmission, and starter bolts depending on the site.

I hope I did this correctly, it felt right - The 3 side transmission mount bolts that go horizontal I tightened to 37 ft/lbs + 1/4 turn, and the top 2 main bolts through the mount got 74 ft/lbs. The additional 2 on either side of the main bolts got 37 ft/lbs as well.

Somewhere online from what seemed like a reliable source it had those values reversed - Vertical mount bolts were 37 ft/lbs + the 1/4 turn, horizontal were 74 ft/lbs. That can't be right can it? As it was it felt like I was reaching the tolerances of the bolts the way I did it.

So this same site that had the above reversed information listed the torque specs on the starter bolts through the transmission as 59 ft/lbs and 44 ft/lbs for the 3 smaller ones along the bottom of the bell housing.

It's getting really tight on the uppermost/starter bolts and I have not even heard the click on my wrench. I'm going to hold off until I get some confirmation.

Could use some clarification, if anyone is able.

It looks like I may have overtorqued the 3 horizontal bolts from the body to the mount. Getting my info from myturbodiesel page.

Now I'm reading 30 ft/lbs plus a 1/4 turn, but I did 37 ft/lbs plus a 1/4 turn. Do I back the bolt out a bit and retighten or has it stretched too much already?

I had also found this thread here that states 37 ft/lbs, out of the Bentley.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=278336

Just leave them, they're fine.
That thread you show is for a 2000 automatic. myturbodiesl is usually pretty reliable. Is the Bentley no help?
Maybe edit your profile to show your year/make/model.

BobnOH said:

Just leave them, they're fine.
That thread you show is for a 2000 automatic. myturbodiesl is usually pretty reliable. Is the Bentley no help?
Maybe edit your profile to show your year/make/model.

Click to expand...

Used to have a 97 Passat TDI, I'm in a gasser mk4 2.0L now, that's why I refrain from adding. I still hop on here for info as I prefer it to vortex these days as far as information goes.

So, I'll leave those bolts alone then.

What about the transmission to engine bolts? Bentley doesn't seem to list them. Are the numbers in this photo accurate?
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/a4/drvlne/trans5.jpg

What year

Bell housing:
m12 = 80 Nm
m10 = 60 Nm
m7 = 10 Nm

BobnOH said:

What year

Click to expand...

It's an 02 Jetta wagon.

derek5120 said:

Bell housing:
m12 = 80 Nm
m10 = 60 Nm
m7 = 10 Nm

Click to expand...

Thank you sir!