Toyota Tacoma ALH Swaparoo!!

AndyBees said:

Good work! The enjoyment of the project will be replaced with the joy of driving your creation!

I got my old '83 Air-cool Vanagon running today.....had to move it! Anyway, it reminded me of all those trips to Alaska in that old Van.....lots of good memories.

I want to finish my project in the next 4 months! .... Maybe in time for the GTG in Lexington!

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ooohh...GTG in lexington...maybe I'll join ya'

more progress...engine is in...pics with captions!!


engine on hoist ready to set


side view


clutch line at clutch slave...I used a 10mm/-4 banjo bolted to the slave with a 10x1 banjo bolt ...to that a -4 braided line with straight swivel at the slave and a 90 degree swivel to the hard line connection at the drivers lower firewall...to adapt it to the hardline connection XRP offers a 10x1mm inverted flare female to 1/4 JIC male brake line adapter (thought I had a pic, will take one manana)...almost all my fittings came from XRP..they have a downloadable online catalog...and most of the stuff is available thru amazon if you enter the XRP part #


pic of the line routing over the bell bolted to an existing 6mm stud in the tunnel using a turbo feed line clamp

OK...now I'm running TWO (2) AC compressors!! ...the VW ALH one and the fact toy compressor via a fabbed up bracket that interfaces between the BHW a/c bracket and the toyota denso compressor...thinking of rigging up the VW compressor as an onboard air compressor for trail/truck horn use...if anyone has info on doing this with a sanden type compressor please forward the link

the BHW bracket has three mounting holes for the sanden compressor...I used these to bolt the intermediate bracket to


because I'm using the ALH harmonic balancer I had to add a pulley for the toy compressor to run off of...this is the adapter piece (for a four rib pulley)that I had fabbed up at my favorite machine shop (thanks Donald!!)....it fits against the balancer bolt bosses with recessed bolts (I used ALH intake bolts) and is drilled for the four rib pulley (unknown Hyundai)


this is the installed pulley (using 5x1 cap screws) that was swiped from an unknown DOHC hyundai engine at the local scrap metal yard


pic of the installed belt...need some better pics of the whole setup....it's pretty sweet lookin'...the compressor pulley runs super close to my engine mount but no touchy!!! ...I used the factory BHW compressor tensioner with the pulley spaced out about an inch with flat washers....gotta new tensioner on order and it'll get a custom alum spacer when installed

more work underhood...


almost all the fluid fill/czech are on the drivers fender well...fuel filter too...not sure what the fuel line is made of....but it was free and I'm gonna try it ...the fuel filter bracket is modified from an MKIV .....the PS res is a NB and rests on part of a NB battery box bolted to the stud once occupied by the toy evap system....gonna snap some pics of clutch line fittings...N75 etc...the entire underhood is "plumbed"...now on to wiring

Great progress Jim! Keep it up!

It Lives!!! (well sort of)

OK I got it fired up this afternoon but had to shut it down due to NO oil pressure!!! ...my BHW/ALH frankenmotor had a nearly fatal flaw...and it was my fault...I left the balance shaft galley unplugged and all the oil pressure bypassed back to the oil pan....yeah I screwed up...guess I was just puttin' that thing together too quick to notice the obvious ....my fix is ghetto but should be effective....removed the filter housing and pressed a modified 8mm bolt shank and head (with plenty of sealant) into the 8mm balance shaft galley....gonna let the sealer set overnight and get back on it manana...should take about an hour to get it back up and running...will post video!!

oil warning lamp...japan vs. germany

OK...one of the first things I addressed this morning was the oil lamp issue...I wanted to use the toy lamp and the VW sender...this poses a problem due to the toy sender being NC and the VW sender being NO ....the VW cluster takes care of this with circuitry in the cluster....the toy is a simple on/off circuit, insufficient oil pressure=continuity=light, sufficient oil pressure=no continuity=no lamp lightee .....so to "fool" the light I added a two position relay between the VW sender and the toy lamp...here's the schematic showing the relay state with key on before cranking ....

engine run on....

another issue I experienced when starting the engine for the first time was when I tried to shut it down it kept running....somehow one of the relays is being backfed via my wiring....I'll have to go back over my wiring integration between the VW and toy harness to find out what went wrong...anyone else encounter this issue?

Wow I want to congrats and oh that sucks at the same time. How much panic went through your mind when you saw the oil pressure issue and then it wouldn't shut down.

BTW this is one of my favorite threads because its like a lot of the vw gas engine threads that I follow or create where people routinely mix and match blocks/heads/pistons/rods/cranks and what not.

Alternator is often a source of backfeed. Disconnect that and see if it turns off with the key.

Ski in NC said:

Alternator is often a source of backfeed. Disconnect that and see if it turns off with the key.

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Hmmm...I wish that was the case...I haven't even hooked it up yet....it has a hard starting issue too...may be related to my fuel pump...acts like it's not advancing the timing sufficiently ....gotta do alot of diagnostic work before the test drive

G60ING said:

Wow I want to congrats and oh that sucks at the same time. How much panic went through your mind when you saw the oil pressure issue and then it wouldn't shut down.

BTW this is one of my favorite threads because its like a lot of the vw gas engine threads that I follow or create where people routinely mix and match blocks/heads/pistons/rods/cranks and what not.

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yeah!!...it was panic central!!...but I handled coolly enuf I guess....it ran for about 45 seconds....my fix worked and I fired it up again this morning and it pegged a 60lb guage at idle and the motor sounds wicked!! ...I wish I could drive it right now but I gotta diag the hard start issue (may be fuel pump related) and the run on issue...right now I'm running the stock Toy intank FI pump...I wonder if it's too much pressure for my IP?....I'm also running an early beetle filter with the bypass T (to eliminate the thermal)...so as not to dead head the pump as much

jimbote said:

another issue I experienced when starting the engine for the first time was when I tried to shut it down it kept running....somehow one of the relays is being backfed via my wiring....I'll have to go back over my wiring integration between the VW and toy harness to find out what went wrong...anyone else encounter this issue?

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I had the exact same issue the first time I fired up my swap. Turns out I had one of my 'Hot in run and crank' wires connected to a 'Hot at all times'. 2 minute fix and everything was fine.

Reddok said:

I had the exact same issue the first time I fired up my swap. Turns out I had one of my 'Hot in run and crank' wires connected to a 'Hot at all times'. 2 minute fix and everything was fine.

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well I eliminated all the wiring between the vw ecm and the toy harness except the two main power wires and the two main grounds and still the same issue...but when I unplug the vw ecm the toy power wire acts normally and cuts when i cut the ignition so it has to be where I've sourced my wire from....should be the toy ecm relay but I'll go back over that

Maybe check to see if power is being cut at the fuel cut-off solenoid when you shut the key off. Or maybe one of those two main power wires is supposed to be 'Hot in run and crank' only?

It lives!!! (again!)

the run on issue is "fixed" as well as the hard start issue....run on was solved by sourcing a different power wire ....and the hard start was solved by replacing the 11mm pump with the 12mm pump I built....(yeah I built the 11mm too) ....now it fires right up and cuts off when I kill the ignition...Yay!!! ....manana is alternator wiring...installing a bypass FPR and drivin' that hunk outa' da' shop!! ....the wires are just spaghetti for now...but untill I get every circuit passing electrons I aint neatinin' up nuttin'! ...video coming in about one hour

Cheers!!! Awsome!! Good work.

Please explain the 12mm pump. Pictures?

Ski in NC said:

Cheers!!! Awsome!! Good work.

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thanks!!...more work to go but it's way closer....

Conan said:

Please explain the 12mm pump. Pictures?

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I wish I took pictures of the pump build...but it's basically a 10mm body with the camplate, rollers (three piece), heavy duty cross piece, and pump head from a japanese Denso pump...the pump was from a CAT/mitsubishi skid steer engine....I think I used the ALH springs also, as the 12mm pump springs seemed way too stiff and also looked like they would bind under lift...also used the delivery valves from the ALH as the Denso valves were about 1/4" longer...OK "EDIT"...also had to drill and tap the pump head to accept the rear ALH mounting bracket

startup vid!!

here it is....need to hear/feel it in person...the mic on my polaroid just aint cuttin' it....damn i'm rev happy but it sounds so good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S85h_nimF88

NICE! I take it back about your motor mount setup - the truck moved more than the engine did during your revving.

greengeeker said:

NICE! I take it back about your motor mount setup - the truck moved more than the engine did during your revving.

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thanks man!!...I'm still concerned about the torque/shear forces on the pendulum mount....gonna build a torque control mount for the bottom of the engine...it will basically utilize the front eight pan bolts via a "C" bracket...that mimics the front of the pan rail....weld a brace to that down to a mount on the front center of the front crossmember....alot like the BHW factory torque link ...but the BHW has the mount holder cast into the front of the pan ...here's a pic ... http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/b5/engn/pull11.jpg

As I'm sure you're aware, the snub mount is for pitch rather than roll control. I'd be weary (here I go again ) to use the stock BHW snub in that application with it being so close to the crankshaft CL.

greengeeker said:

As I'm sure you're aware, the snub mount is for pitch rather than roll control. I'd be weary (here I go again ) to use the stock BHW snub in that application with it being so close to the crankshaft CL.

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maybe I wasn't clear...I was just using that as an example ....im NOT using the BHW stuff...but I will build my own mount....pitch?...that sounds like an airplane term you mean fore/aft?

just went for a test ride....everything works great with the exception of chatter/shake on take off clutch release....I believe my mount needs a torque link of some kind...I was concerned about this but did not think it would manifest as shaking....everything else did great...very good power almost no smoke and this is with a stock tune, 12mm pump, 1749VA turbo and PP502 injectors...it actually feels quicker than the 3RZ

greengeeker said:

As I'm sure you're aware, the snub mount is for pitch rather than roll control. I'd be weary (here I go again ) to use the stock BHW snub in that application with it being so close to the crankshaft CL.

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OK I think my plan is to use the ALH rear facing pan bosses...attach my mount to that via a 3/8" plate...drop down about 2" below the pan and run an adjustable torque link between the bracket and the passenger side frame rail...hows that sound? ....sorry if I sounded snippy in my last quote/reply...not intended...I highly value your input!!

gonna try and post a test drive video tonight...it's about 12 minutes long so I hope I don't bore ya'll to death

3RZ 2.0kw starter

Rock on, jimbote! Looking forward to the smoke, rubber, and mud video.

Starter question. Just re-read your entire thread. There are a number of different 2.0kw starters for the 3RZ.

See for example http://www.statracing.com/replacement/toyota/starter.asp

Did you use PN 28100-75140, 2.0kw with cold start?

Anyone know if this will work with a Toyota G52/G-series transmission?

cumminsfromthecold said:

Rock on, jimbote! Looking forward to the smoke, rubber, and mud video.

Starter question. Just re-read your entire thread. There are a number of different 2.0kw starters for the 3RZ.

See for example http://www.statracing.com/replacement/toyota/starter.asp

Did you use PN 28100-75140, 2.0kw with cold start?

Anyone know if this will work with a Toyota G52/G-series transmission?

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thanks dude...I have an 12 minute video of a very very mild first drive...the burning rubber will come after everything is "finished" ....I was not aware that that there was more than one 2.0KW 3RZ starter...but I'm pretty sure they will all work....I got mine off of ebay from some rebuilder ....and not sure if it will work with the G52 tranny....I thought the G52 took the same starter as the W series but I may be incorrect...either way it won't work without modifying the bell housing with an extra tab....

Starter Compatibility with a G52

"either way it won't work without modifying the bell housing with an extra tab...."

Ok, that's what I thought.

Regarding W-series and G-series transmissions' similarities: I found this on swapping the W56 and G52 Toyota transmissions:
http://www.toyotadiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398

The W56 transmission is for a 4 cylinder gas (the 22RE) and the W59 is for a V6 gas, correct? So the question remains, is a 2.0kW Toyota starter that works with a 1996 vintage W59 transmission going to work with a G52 5 speed transmission? I'd assume those flywheel teeth patterns are pretty different and the same starter would not work for both.