Codes P1441 P0245 P0216

Thanks?? I think?????
Spoke to aNut on the phone this morning. If he is as good as he is nice my baby is in good hands. He is suspicious of the Turbo and that will be the 1st thing I think he plans to look at. Of course this all depends on the car running the 30 miles to Boulder tomorrow morning. There is so much stuff hitting the fan in my house lately I hope at least I can get the car to Boulder!
Have a good weekend everyone. Guy

OK I got a call from aNut and he says that the ECM is bad. He tested continuity and found the small area that operates the N75 etc was toast. He is attempting to get me a used unit. So far I am very impressed with aNut in character as well as know-how. Anyone in the area should feel good about taking their cars to aNut.

It sounds repairable.

Yes perhaps but I think a used ECM is a resonable solution.

My car did same thing when I got it... exactly the same sevre limp mode I was ready to replace everything until I found a torn vac line off the pump.. replaced it an now its been good.

Yeah it seems vac lines are a common cause of this. The continuity was checked in the ECM and it seems to be the problem. It might be a good idea for me to change all the vacuum lines soon and nip that before it bites me. Thanks

The vac lines are very easy to replace especially if you do them one at a time so as not to mix them up. Very worthwhile piece of maintenance to do. I've replaced them on both our TDI's.

Funguy said:

Yeah it seems vac lines are a common cause of this. The continuity was checked in the ECM and it seems to be the problem. It might be a good idea for me to change all the vacuum lines soon and nip that before it bites me. Thanks

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can anybody recommend an approximately mileage # where one should consider replacing all the lines on an 03?

sfierz said:

The vac lines are very easy to replace especially if you do them one at a time so as not to mix them up. Very worthwhile piece of maintenance to do. I've replaced them on both our TDI's.

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Sounds like good advice to me. Seems like something I might actually be able to do right. Key word = might

i have to finish doin all mine...
kiva.. id say maybe 100-150k depending on the state you live in salt an sand from winter will ruin them fast...

rollincoal97 said:

i have to finish doin all mine...
kiva.. id say maybe 100-150k depending on the state you live in salt an sand from winter will ruin them fast...

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thanks...i'll put it on the to-do list. first 160k were Missouri. Last 13k were CA.

matt

So, Funguy, was it the ECM? I've just developed the same problem with the same codes, and I'm debating whether to throw parts at it. TIA - Pat

Yup it was the ECM. Thanks to A-Nut for the diagnosis and the fix. Thanks to Kerma for the immobilizer delete on the junkyard ECM I bought. Running like a top ever since

Thanks Guy -

I'm going to pull mine and with some help, perhaps, from aNUT, check continuity on the suspect areas. Then I'll try to source one. My prob, though, is that mine has RC3 on it, and I'll have to contact Jeff and see what he can do for me on the new ECM before I install it. - Pat

To revisit since I've gotten two questions about this thread in as many weeks -

When the ECU fails in the manner Guy's did, (I've seen 4 of these now; ALH only, so far) the car has drivability problems as well as:

White smoke
Boost control issues & codes
Timing control issues & codes
Inability to rev up & very easily stalled
MAF and/or EGR codes

These cars may or may not exhibit all of the symptoms, but if you're only seeing one or maybe two of these symptoms, the ECU is likely not the problem.

The above combination of symptoms can be caused by concurrent malfunction of the N75 (turbo actuator control solenoid), N18 (EGR valve control solenoid), and N108 (timing advance solenoid in pump). These solenoids are continuously pulsed via square wave controlled by the ECU. These solenoids all receive constant voltage and have a ground lead running to the ECU. The ECU controls the pulsing (duty cycle) by alternating the ground/open bias. Relating to the issue at hand, all three ground pins are neighbors at the ECU. Consult your wiring diagram for the full details, but the pertinent ECU side pins are in the area of pins 61, 62, 80, 81 and 82.

Obviously before condemning an ECU, proper due diligence should include testing continuity between problematic devices and their voltage source, grounds, leads, and all the general stuff (vacuum, timing, faulty solenoids, clogged intakes etc.) Basically, I don't want someone to read this, jump to conclusions, and go off spending a few hundred dollars getting the immo. deleted from their junkyard ECU, installing it, and still having smoke, low power, and timing issues because their '02 beat-hole with 200K miles on the clock has a leaky vacuum pump, crunchy VNT actuator, and a dealer timing belt job... Rule out the easy cheap stuff first!

If you have some evidence to support the supposition that the ECU's time has passed, keep in mind -

All non-immo EB & BK (98-99.5 Golf/Jetta4/Beetle) ECUs are drop in compatible with each other.
All immo2 BD, CP, and N ('00-'01 G/J/B) ECUs are compatible with each other, but before starting the car, channel 00 will need to be adapted in the instruments controller with VCDS (or equivalent) to "reset all factory defaults"
If your car uses an immo3 ('02-'03 G/J/B) FD or GN ECU, you'll need to have the immobilizer removed in order to get your car to run with a different ECU than it came equipped...find a chiptuner.
If you replace your ECU, make sure the replacement ECU is from the same immo version. There are subtle differences that can be problematic even if the immo is deleted...like glow plug control for example.

Please also keep in mind that this list of ECU suffixes is not complete. These are just the more common ones I remember off the cuff.

Just wanted to say that, while aNUT's caution is totally appropriate, I did, after privately corresponding with him, buy a junkyard ECU for $50 and got the car running again. This was, however, in a situation where I had _exactly_ the same symptoms and error codes that Guy had, and others have posted about. Appreciate the help from Guy and from aNUT - Pat

I’m getting a similar issue with P0216, and P0245 thrown but no other error codes (even with vcds I’m not seeing any deeper codes that the normal obd reader would miss). It’s intermittent and doesn’t seem to have a pattern. Sometimes it has vacuum from start, drives fine and then throws the codes later. Most of the time it doesn’t have vacuum from a cold start but will develop it over a 20-minute drive and then run fine for a while, just to suddenly loose it, only to have it come back later, and sometimes it just never develop it at all. It doesn’t seem to be coupled to cold start or warm starts.

When it’s acting up the turbo doesn’t sound to be spooling up, and the engine in general sounds like an angry tracker with no power. When the codes are cleared you can hear changes and even a brief smoothing out of the engine as the last code is cleared. I’m not seeing much smoke, just a lack of power, no boost, and the angry tracker sound from the engine. I replaced the n75 valve because I noticed (when engine off) the vacuum would leak down from the regulated side.

I have:
replaced the plastic elbow to the brake booster (found a crack in the side of the rigid plastic,
replaced all of the vacuum tubing with silicone vacuum tubing,
replaced (I believe) the n75 solenoid valve (the one controlling vacuum to the turbo, driver’s side of firewall by the brake boost),
and RTV’d around the nipple from the vacuum pump (I had read in a different forum post that the nipple can leak as it gets warn out and loose.
I’ve checked the turbo actuator and it both moves freely with the line to the turbo and actuator holding vacuum to at least 25 psi, the vacuum reservoir ball appears to be holding vacuum, and the EGR/ASV likewise appear to be holding vacuum. When it appears to have low vacuum the brakes feel like they too are not receiving much boost with the peddle mushy and slowly leaking down when depressed.

Does anyone have ideas of what may be causing the issue, or a test procedure to identify the fault?
Thank you.

121 pin ALH WD's

Some may find these partial wiring diagrams depicting the solenoids at hand helpful. Does not apply to 98 or 99.5's

LINK TO PARTIAL WD 65_8

LINK TO PARTIAL WD 65_9

Hello all,
I picked up a 2001 golf ALH earlier this week that will hardly idle, is throwing P1441 P0245 and P0216. At initial star up it won't rev at all. Over time (lots of time like 30 min) it will start to rev a little but no post and tons of white smoke. Here is what I've done so far. I’ve gone though the vac system to confirm everything is good (egr is working, turbo vanes are good and moving under vac). All fuses are good and none are missing. I switched the n18 and n75 to see if it changed anything, no change. Here is the voltage and ohms I’m getting on the n18 and n75
N75
pin 1, 12v, .08 ohm
pin 2, 3.3v, 9.96 ohm
N18
pin 1 12v, .08 ohm
pin 2 .12v, 10.01 ohm
All ohm readings were taken on 20k.
reading through this thread I am thinking I should be looking at ECM as the culprit.How can I test the ECM out of the car to verify it is the issue before spending the money on a new one?

Um, unplug the MAF and test the engine.
Check the vacuum system with a vacuum gauge.

So I have a similar issue and it’s a little more complicated. I would once in a while go into limp it trying to pass someone on the highway. We’ll, I blew the turbo and sent it in to be replaced. (Should have done it myself) anywho, I got my car back from the shop and my interior lights, windows, radio, and door locks don’t work. And the engine isn’t getting any boost. The codes Ilogged are as follows:
P0216 injection timing control status sporadic circuit malfunction (16600)
P0684 glow plug control module 1 to pcm
P0102 mass air sensor A low Status sporadic short to ground
P0245 turbo wastegate soleniod A low status sporadic/short to ground (16629)
P0a11 sporadic dc/dc converter enable circuit/open(17849)
U040f sporadic: invalid data received from reluctant control module (17068)

please, if you have any thoughts I would appreciate them. Kinda at a loss here.