Air condition working rarely at random

My 2013 jetta's a/c system barely works. I checked the 134a levels with a professional grade a/c recharger and the pressure reader, the pressure seemed perfectly fine. When the a/c light is on and the a/c is on max cold, it blows warm air. Sometimes every once and a while it will blow cold air for maybe a minute than go back to warm.
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Search for RCV. Very simple, very common. You can verify its operation with a scan tool. Leave the gauges in the toolbox.

Ok I'm going to order the rcv later. Does anyone have a removal guide. I've been looking. I'm going to aquire a 134a vac from a friend. But, how do you go about removing and putting it back in. Does it screw in or do you need a removal tool?

There are two types: clip in and bolt in. Yours is most likely the clip in style.

Very easy to replace. Evacuate the charge from the system. DO NOT pull a vacuum on it. That will make it harder to remove.

Lift the car up, take the lower shield off. I remove the two vertical bolts from the lower transmission roll mount (leave the mount on the car). Jack the rear of the trans up, so you roll the whole engine/trans assembly up in the rear, and down in the front. This will make it easier to get at the RCV on the front lower part of the compressor.

Unplug the RCV, remove the clip, pull it out. Wear safety glasses, as some residual refrigerant and oil may spit out at you. Sometimes these can be fiddly to get out. Once out, quickly put the new one in, making sure it pops all the way in. Replace the clip, plug it back in, put the engine/trans back in place, resecure the mount, replace the shield, lower the car, pull a vacuum on the system, and recharge it. Easy peasy.

oilhammer said:

There are two types: clip in and bolt in. Yours is most likely the clip in style.
Very easy to replace. Evacuate the charge from the system. DO NOT pull a vacuum on it. That will make it harder to remove.
Lift the car up, take the lower shield off. I remove the two vertical bolts from the lower transmission roll mount (leave the mount on the car). Jack the rear of the trans up, so you roll the whole engine/trans assembly up in the rear, and down in the front. This will make it easier to get at the RCV on the front lower part of the compressor.
Unplug the RCV, remove the clip, pull it out. Wear safety glasses, as some residual refrigerant and oil may spit out at you. Sometimes these can be fiddly to get out. Once out, quickly put the new one in, making sure it pops all the way in. Replace the clip, plug it back in, put the engine/trans back in place, resecure the mount, replace the shield, lower the car, pull a vacuum on the system, and recharge it. Easy peasy.

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Reading Oilhammer's posts is like watching those DIY shows on TV; they make it seem so easy to do.

Thanks for the quick explanation, of course by the time I need it I'll have even forgot where I saw it.

I called the dealer and apparently they don't carry it. So who makes the most reliable one? Also they were spracking off about the AC system being contaminated if the part broke like that that. Sounds like bs to me. While I have the AC system drained tho. Is there like a flushing or lubrication treatment I should do to the system?

oilhammer said:

Search for RCV. Very simple, very common. You can verify its operation with a scan tool. Leave the gauges in the toolbox.

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Seriously, this topic has been covered MANY times here.

We get ours from a place in Florida called Polar Bear.

http://www.polarbearinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=953

The dealer won't have a clue, don't bother. They'll just replace the whole compressor, and even though you can buy a genuine Sanden compressor complete in the aftermarket for half the price as the dealer sells them, you likely won't need one anyways. RCVs are cheap and easy. I've done two already this week.

Much appreciated thanks

Should we just have stock answers stored on the server so one could just post #207 for the RCV spiel and save time.
It seems rude to suggest that the poster search for RCV, but there it is.
Could, perhaps, one of the moderators just put a sticky somewhere with all of the information?

Personally I think being told the exact magic search phrase to use is a big help....often an OP doesn't know where to begin even if they want to search.

And, rehashing the same stuff that's already has been given great coverage previously is a waste of everyone's time.

Classic example: door switch issues. Most people don't know where to even guess at what is causing their wacky symptoms. Suggesting they search for the "$3 fix" thread points them straight at the mother load and saves everyone a bunch of time and confusion.

A nice "sticky" pointing to the threads or good search topics might be nice.
It seems that every week another discovers slow, delayed, intermittent or no A/C that could be related to the infamous RCV.
as one in on the initial threadzilla on delayed A/C problem years ago it's all there.

Even though it has been talked about a lot, if someone finds one GOOD DIY post about it, maybe it could get put into that DIY smorgasbord thread?

And I agree with what someone said above, if someone hasn't had AC problems before, "RCV" may not be the first search term that comes to mind. Sometimes simple searches find TOO MUCH info!

It would be nice to have a sticky that explains not only the symptoms, but also the cause of the problem. Seems like the cause of the problem is "a contaminated system" that causes the valves to get clogged and stick. Maybe installing an inline filter would help? Or flushing the system well?


I replaced my RCV in August, and it went out in April. Hardly a great fix. Now I'm thinking a new compressor is the best choice, but I'm afraid I'd just be replacing a broken compressor with one that will break in 2 or 3 years.

I had mine replaced 3 years ago and so far this spring I'm not impressed with how it's working... 3 year lifespan is deplorable for a car's AC.

abaron said:

Reading Oilhammer's posts is like watching those DIY shows on TV; they make it seem so easy to do.
Thanks for the quick explanation, of course by the time I need it I'll have even forgot where I saw it.

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I'm sure it would be easy if you have a proper garage. Not exactly something you'd do out on your driveway alongside an oil change. But even if you have to take this one to a mechanic, a $50 part, hour of labor and evac/recharge (total around $250-$300 depending on labor rates) is much easier to swallow than a compressor replacement or full system replacement.

My 2013 had/has similar symptoms with mostly warm air punctuated by periods of colder air. I took it to a Pep Boys and they quoted a $1600+ full system replacement. A second opinion from an independent garage pointed to the expansion valve, which I had them replace but it didn't work (they were cool about that, only charged me for the part). The independent garage's next diagnosis was compressor failure ($950 replacement), but in the meantime I found all the reports of RCV failures.

It's a gamble, but given the diagnostic results so far (no shrapnel or filings in other system components or the refrigerant oil, no leaks, intermittent periods of compression/cold air) I'm pretty confident the compressor's fine and it's either the RCV or the control module, both much cheaper fixes. I'll need a VCDS to confirm which it is (AFAIK nobody's plugged a VAG-specific code reader into this car yet) but the amount of fiddling the second shop has done to try to get it working has actually dramatically improved the situation; instead of 80% warm air, 20% cold, it's the opposite or better, and if the AC seems reluctant, now that I know the probable problem, switching between Max AC and one notch less than that a few times seems to "wake up" whatever's hesitating and get me cold air. So, I can afford to wait until I find a garage besides the dealer that knows their stuff on VWs and can run the full VCDS diagnostics to confirm my suspicions.

If you check the DIY thread here... you will see the link to the RCV thread... there are many like Oilhammer said. Its been linked there since Feb....

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=428511

So far, no I have not seen a DIY/ How To that specifically is a walk through of exactly how to replace with pictures and what tools are required. As soon as someone makes one, I'll be more than happy to update the link. The description that Oilhammer did early in this thread is a very good one. Lots of people buy the valve and then take them to AC shops as previously described.

Also, the problem is usually a sticking valve, not a broken one.

I think finding an independent garage who has the VAG com stuff is going to be the tough part. I want to find one too!

bennybmn said:

I think finding an independent garage who has the VAG com stuff is going to be the tough part. I want to find one too!

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You don't really *need* a scan tool to change the RCV. It just is necessary to check the pressure sensor's input to the Climatic/Climatronic module.

I have a buddy with a full rosstech setup... I guess I could check it at least and go to a mechanic well informed. Do you know of a good write up somewhere telling what to look for once I plug in?

Anyone had any luck recharging their system with an auto parts store kit? Mine definitely feels different when I turn on the AC, just not drastically different. Like it's 73 here today and I had it blowing at fan level 3 at me today and I wasn't cold... I feel like AC should give you an ice cream headache blowing at your head.

Ok so I identified the part it's an ex 030 now the top pieces are weirder looking compared to the ones on the DIY thread. What is recommended to remove this.

http://imgur.com/wQ4oPcH
http://imgur.com/nRIyqEe

ph34rx said:

Ok so I identified the part it's an ex 030 now the top pieces are weirder looking compared to the ones on the DIY thread. What is recommended to remove this.
http://imgur.com/wQ4oPcH
http://imgur.com/nRIyqEe

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All it's held in by is a C clip and obviously you'll need to remove the electrical connector first.

Removal should be pretty straight forward.

Install should be easier.

I was having the same issue and was about to replace the RCV, but thought I would check with a service adviser at my dealership first even though my car is out of warranty (2013 at 75k miles). They contacted VWoA and got me a new compressor. I asked why they took care of it and the service adviser said "it's a diesel fix it."

Maybe check with your local dealer to see if they would take care of it too.

The service adviser also told me that these newer AC units are having a lot of issues like mine and they can only do the whole compressor and not just the RCV.

HodgePodge said:

I was having the same issue and was about to replace the RCV, but thought I would check with a service adviser at my dealership first even though my car is out of warranty (2013 at 75k miles). They contacted VWoA and got me a new compressor. I asked why they took care of it and the service adviser said "it's a diesel fix it."
Maybe check with your local dealer to see if they would take care of it too.
The service adviser also told me that these newer AC units are having a lot of issues like mine and they can only do the whole compressor and not just the RCV.

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Could just be that dealer. It'd be worth a shot to see if your local dealer will fix it.

That said, many who've tried the dealer were told to pay or pound sand if they were out of warranty.

I had to contact VWoA myself to get reimbursed. This was before dieselgate tho...

RCV fixed mine when it wasn't blowing cold, A/C is very important in So Fla.

ATR said:

Could just be that dealer. It'd be worth a shot to see if your local dealer will fix it.

That said, many who've tried the dealer were told to pay or pound sand if they were out of warranty.

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The worst they will say is no, like you said. It is worth a short. I live in AZ and this weekend it's supposed to be up to 117. Glad I got this done last week!

If VWofA didn't pay for it, I was planning on getting the RCV. However, the inside of the my compressor was really showing wear. The service adviser said it had "veins" running through it. Not sure what that means, but all I know it's fixed now. I guess I will do an AC flush maybe every 30-40k moving forward to ensure it doesn't go out again.

Ok finally getting to it tomorrow. Should I get a flush done on the system? Also how much ac compressor oil does this sanden compressor take?