Do I Need to Replace My Injection Pump?

IP started to leak gradually from the joint between the pump and the “fuel distributor” part. Then started to leak a lot after shut down. Needed the car. Took to a local shop and they thought new seals would fix me up. Called just now and said there’s a lot of corrosion between the dissimilar metals at the joint and he didn’t think it would seal for long if he just replaced o-rings, etc. Told me to look for a new or rebuilt pump. Got 480,000 miles out of this one, so can’t complain but money’s money.

Does “corrosion” make sense? If they are O-rings, seems a perfect joint would not be as critical as a machined surface. What do I know?!

Do I need a pump? And new or rebuilt? And where to look? Does Frank the injector man do pumps? Just go to my usual, IDParts? Rock Auto?

Help an elderly senior citizen!
Thanks.

Have them clean up the parts as best can beso no debris left.
Install new seals and have him grease them up good with diesel fuel, do not install dry.
What's the worst that can happen? It leaks? Already did that. The labor wont change much.

Probably wont leak. I've seen some fair corrosion on some of these parts before but never anything some elbogrease cant solve. Unless it's stupid heavy pitting, the oring will probably seal it up fine

IMHO "corrision" does not make sense. When you look at your IP is it all corroded looking?
Diesel fuel is a solvent. It prevents corrosion (FFS).
Who is your mechanic, and is he on the Trusted List?
Not saying if a mechanic is not on the list he's crap, just suggesting he doesn't know the TDI.
There's a reason people have put the list out there.
TDI-Inexperienced mechanics -even good VW mechanics- can easily destroy these cars.
Many stories on here about it.
You got this guy a tow's distance! I hope he's still rumbling.
Sounds like you have a pretty awesome car.
A pretty awesome mechanic should be working on it!
Marty Bergel (JetAAH)
9696 N. Nicholson Road
Fowlerville, MI 48836
(517) 927-6638
http://www.martinbergelllc.com/index.html

When I did my pump there was corrosion outside the o-ring on the pump head but the sealing surface was fine. The seal keeps water out just like it keeps fuel in.

I had to polish up the bore to remove corrosion that could've damaged the seal going in but that's it.

Can't say whether your guy is qualified or not. Does he have VCDS?

yea, Stinky Fingers, you saying that the IP had corrosion on the INSIDE? i highly dought it. i'm sure this mechanic does not understand how things work in diesels. a few pictures and a detailed explanation is in order. outside and possibly into the seal area just a tiny bit, maybe.

I bet he took it apart good and came get it back together. That's the real issue here.

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I can't see how water could get to the o-ring seal's seat as long as it was properly seated.
Also what eddie said.
Stinky's best move is to roll it up to Marty if for no other reason a second (correct) opinion.

Thanks, guys. I have always used Marty over the years. Unfortunately, this is along way to "roll it up there."



The leaking and corrosion was not from the top where the two pieces that come off have "oblongish" seal-Oring type things that look almost identical. It was between the aluminum and the steel...the vertical seam between the pump and the distribution block.


I can't gaurantee the mechanic knows TDI's but I also can't drive to Marty's with diesel fuel squirting out of the pump. And he has appointments and a schedule and is a 1-man operation. This guy does have a Metalnerd camshaft lock, so maybe that's a good sign. ;-)


I know from experience, you can say "button it up. I'm outta here" to a shop, but you can't tell a mechanic "here's how I want you to fix this." This guy has done fine with my '99 Turbodiesel Suburban and drives a diesel himself. But then, my old Aunt Milly drives a diesel too, and she knows s**t about injection pumps.


Price range on rebuilt IP's seems to be about $500 to $1250 plus core. Labor runs $110 an hour. Fixing this pump, maybe having it not work, and R&R for R/B pump means labor x 2. I am thinking do it once. Get another 480,000 miles out of her. Am I being dumb?


Anybody want to buy a bulletproof TDI wagon with a rust hole in the fender and a leaky IP?

At 480k mi. you would benefit from a refresh. DFIS in Oregon are the go to for rebuild, but it can cost as much as a new one. But there should be no reason yours can't be sealed. It's the proverbial $1000 question.

You can take your chances with a used unit. For new you want a genuine Bosch pump. I've heard Dutch Auto Parts in The Netherlands has better price.

Stinkyfingers said:

but you can't tell a mechanic "here's how I want you to fix this."

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You could not be more wrong. If this is what you believe or cant do with your mechanic, you need to go somewhere else.
Your a paying customer. Having a mechanic do work you did not want and that more specifically you have requested to do differently, (as long as it does not violate any state and federal laws, is illegal.

Just put some new seals on it and grease it up really good. If it does not work, well your not really in any other position than you planned.
Dont get hassled

480k on an original pump is a good bit. Sending it in for a rebuild isn't a bad idea, if you can afford the cost and wait for it.
Otherwise I would consider Dutch auto parts, they're listed in the classified here. I've had good experiences with them and you could get a used, or rebuilt, pump from him pretty reasonably. Still have to wait though.

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BobnOH said:

At 480k mi. you would benefit from a refresh. DFIS in Oregon are the go to for rebuild, but it can cost as much as a new one. But there should be no reason yours can't be sealed. It's the proverbial $1000 question.

You can take your chances with a used unit. For new you want a genuine Bosch pump. I've heard Dutch Auto Parts in The Netherlands has better price.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, Dutch Auto Parts has no web store and their "contact" button doesn't work.
Under construction

The webshop of Dutch Auto Parts is coming soon.

Still don't see why it can't be cleaned and sealed up.
The Iron head and the Al body don't even rest together. There is a gap.
So the dissimilar metals thing is B.S. The gap is how crap gets down there.
It's cleanseable. IF the mech knows what to do.
Did you ever get eyes on the pump for yourself?
Sure, it's old - but it wasn't it working before the leak?
As for labor, placing a new IP is much more involved and I imagine lengthier process
than a o-ring swap. Your guy should have at least tried IMO.

I would have to verify for myself that a $1300 pump is the way to go vs. a $3 o-ring.
Two words:
TOW TRUCK

STDOUBT said:

Still don't see why it can't be cleaned and sealed up.
The Iron head and the Al body don't even rest together. There is a gap.
So the dissimilar metals thing is B.S. The gap is how crap gets down there.
It's cleanseable. IF the mech knows what to do.
Did you ever get eyes on the pump for yourself?
Sure, it's old - but it wasn't it working before the leak?
As for labor, placing a new IP is much more involved and I imagine lengthier process
than a o-ring swap. Your guy should have at least tried IMO.

I would have to verify for myself that a $1300 pump is the way to go vs. a $3 o-ring.
Two words:
TOW TRUCK

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cant agree more with this 100%+

Email him, he'll respond. If you prefer call the number listed on the contact page.
He hasn't changed his webpage in years, however, he is quick to ship.

info@dutchautoparts.com
http://dutchautoparts.com/contact_us.php

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Well, I’ve decided I am not sinking $1500 into a r/b pump and R&R labor on a $1000 car. I’ve certainly gotten my service out of it. So I told him to pull the pump, reface the joint, put in the seals and say a prayer. If it holds, I’m good. If not, maybe somebody wants to buy a new IDParts alternator and rebuilt 5-speed attached to a ver used Jetta that still doesn’t use any lube oil between changes. -

Stinkyfingers said:

Well, I’ve decided I am not sinking $1500 into a r/b pump and R&R labor on a $1000 car. I’ve certainly gotten my service out of it. So I told him to pull the pump, reface the joint, put in the seals and say a prayer. If it holds, I’m good. If not, maybe somebody wants to buy a new IDParts alternator and rebuilt 5-speed attached to a ver used Jetta that still doesn’t use any lube oil between changes. -

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I still dont understand why the pump needs to be pulled in any way at all. Just grease up the rings and put it togeather. I have no idea why this is becoming complicated.

This horse ain't dead yet so I'll answer that question.
It's complicated because neither Stinky nor his mechanic know the non-BOSCH-shop
way to replace the head's o-ring. My first time was maybe 1.5 hours.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...Head_Seal_Replacement.pdf?4076578494864566917

I agree DannyBoy, but you also have to consider this owner isnt willing to do the work for a 2 hour job with $5 worth in parts.
i don't think this one is getting parted out.

Mongler98 said:

I agree DannyBoy, but you also have to consider this owner isnt willing to do the work for a 2 hour job with $5 worth in parts.
i don't think this one is getting parted out.

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Thanks for the kind words. Except for the trans rebuild, I've done all the maintenance and repairs on this car since I bought it in 2005. Including 4 timing belts. But my circumstances are different right now.

so you agree, your circumstances (for whatever it may be) will not alow you do have time or the ability to do a 2 hour job for $5 in parts.
nothing wrong with having a life that takes priorities over a car of all things.
my point was not that you do not possess the skills, but rather that this is what you have to work with.
Yea i was being a little cynical but honestly i do not mean any harm. sorry i can be a bit of a jerk sometimes with out honestly knowing at the moment.

It's a Jetta Variant Hecho en Alemania!
It's a few Summers away from 500 thousand miles... burns no oil.
I don't mean any disrespect, stinky, but I can't imagine walking away from that.
Unless your arthritis is way worse than mine you could DYI, man. Read the PDF I linked^
Crazy times...

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...Head_Seal_Replacement.pdf?4076578494864566917

This is a great tutorial and just what I needed. Got the seal kit from Dieselgeek. Stretching that big o-ring is scary! All together now and does not seem to leak although it was a but tricky purging all the air. Drove it about 40 miles yesterday and all seems good! Will it laxst another 480,000 miles? ...or until the next Michigan GTG?

Freaking high-five man!