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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old November 21st, 2013, 07:12   #76
jonlowe
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Originally Posted by vwztips View Post
There is one exception that I know of which is the DQS gearbox. I do not know from first hand experience, but from what I have read here, it seems there are issues with the resonances in 6th gear due to the taller gearing.

There are plemty of threads and discussions here about the pros and cons of the 5 speed vs 6 speed. Personally, I am more than pleased with the 5 speed.
Yeah, forgot about the DQS...
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 11:10   #77
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Just a quick heads up, I was advised that the DQS box's from v6 TDI's are to be avoided because they have a shorter input shaft (1/2"). One would be better off using the 4 cyl. tdi 6-speed (such as FRK).
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 12:25   #78
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FWIW double check your ratios before buying any manual. Some 6 speeds run higher rpms than some 5 speeds, along with other issues to deal with, but if you are bound and determined to install a 6 speed, knock yourself out, LOL.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 18:51   #79
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VWztips- I am not going to install a 6 - speed. Thanks lol?
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Old November 23rd, 2013, 13:28   #80
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I'm lovin the 6 speed.....If I had to do it again, I would probably do the same.
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Old November 24th, 2013, 07:05   #81
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Originally Posted by Ropre View Post
Just a quick heads up, I was advised that the DQS box's from v6 TDI's are to be avoided because they have a shorter input shaft (1/2"). One would be better off using the 4 cyl. tdi 6-speed (such as FRK).
Advised by whom? There are a few of us running DQS boxes. The spacer is not needed with this box and you can use the stock starter too.
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Old November 24th, 2013, 07:07   #82
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Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
That is definitely not correct. I just did this job. Took a lot of pics, perhaps I should post them.

Anycase you HAVE to drop the subframe, not all the way, but enough to tip the ZF auto trans down to get to the bellhousing bolts. This requires removing the bolts in all four corners of the subframe and disconnecting the lower strut/shock mount, along with holding up the engine.
Now I heard with a manual, it is not needed to drop the subframe.

.
Yes, sorry, I have manuals on the brain
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Old November 24th, 2013, 21:42   #83
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Originally Posted by Sprocket View Post
Advised by whom? There are a few of us running DQS boxes. The spacer is not needed with this box and you can use the stock starter too.
I have a DQS, several FRKs and a GVS. The FRKs and GVS have a longer input shaft, not sure why. The fact the DQS only ever went behind a V6 TDI crankshaft may have something to do with it. The FRK and GVS were always for 4cyl 1.9/2.0 PD TDIs, just like ours. I suspect VW knew a thing or two.
I gave up on my DQS, it is for sale.
I have 20k miles on the FRK now, works great, quiet. 150rpm higher than the DQS in 6th @ 75mph, but who cares.

The spacer and starter type are not affected by choice of 01E gearbox. They are only affected by choice of flywheel.
If you run a 240mm DMF, then you need a spacer, and you need a different starter. And then the extra shaft length on the FRK/GVS becomes pretty useful.

Yes, you can run a custom SMF flywheel and then potentially avoid the spacer, and the starter change. However many in Europe have tried SMF with 01E, and I have not found ANY success. They become noisy, and eat synchros. They need the lighter, non-sprung clutch disc, and so you then have to run a DMF.
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Old November 25th, 2013, 04:33   #84
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You guys are lucky with all the tranny options, I am still debating what to do as I was reading that I will have to grind down the crank by 4 mm and modify the pilot bearing to do my swap on the 1.8T as the auto crank is different then manual...
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Old November 25th, 2013, 06:01   #85
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You guys are lucky with all the tranny options, I am still debating what to do as I was reading that I will have to grind down the crank by 4 mm and modify the pilot bearing to do my swap on the 1.8T as the auto crank is different then manual...
Auto cranks are different on the diesel as well, but the normal manual pilot bearing fits the hole and if it is not driven in too deep it works fine.

You don't have to modify the crank on your 1.8T. You can get an oilite bronze bushing made to fit the pilot bearing hole in your existing crank. Auto cranks aren't quite as long but there is sufficient length (like the diesel) to support the input shaft. The auto crank has a hardened bushing that fits the converter pilot, it must be removed first. Take it and the transmission or at least the dimensions of your input shaft to your local machine shop and they can make you a bushing to mate the two.
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Old November 26th, 2013, 05:59   #86
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Auto cranks are different on the diesel as well, but the normal manual pilot bearing fits the hole and if it is not driven in too deep it works fine.

You don't have to modify the crank on your 1.8T. You can get an oilite bronze bushing made to fit the pilot bearing hole in your existing crank. Auto cranks aren't quite as long but there is sufficient length (like the diesel) to support the input shaft. The auto crank has a hardened bushing that fits the converter pilot, it must be removed first. Take it and the transmission or at least the dimensions of your input shaft to your local machine shop and they can make you a bushing to mate the two.
Thanks for the info I was under impression that the crank is too long to fit snugly with the manual tranny that is why you need to shave it... Where in Ontario are you, maybe I will bring all my stuff up north and you can help me with that swap...
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Old November 26th, 2013, 07:37   #87
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Thanks for the info I was under impression that the crank is too long to fit snugly with the manual tranny that is why you need to shave it... Where in Ontario are you, maybe I will bring all my stuff up north and you can help me with that swap...
The crank is actually too short on an auto 1.8t. The reason many grind the end down is to fit a large sealed ball bearing into the center of the flywheel to act as a pilot bearing. This method seems a bit crude.

I would just machine a bronze bushing to insert in the end of the crank and be done with it. It may also be possible to find a needle bearing that will fit the hole in the 1.8T crank and also fit the input shaft of the trans, I haven't really done much research.

I don't work on VW's professionally. It's more of a hobby for me. I'm not interested in working on your car.
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Old November 26th, 2013, 12:27   #88
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The crank is actually too short on an auto 1.8t. The reason many grind the end down is to fit a large sealed ball bearing into the center of the flywheel to act as a pilot bearing. This method seems a bit crude.

I would just machine a bronze bushing to insert in the end of the crank and be done with it. It may also be possible to find a needle bearing that will fit the hole in the 1.8T crank and also fit the input shaft of the trans, I haven't really done much research.

I don't work on VW's professionally. It's more of a hobby for me. I'm not interested in working on your car.
OK thanks for all the tips I didn't mean to offend you or anything with asking if you could help... But greatly appreciate the help, I would be scared to grind down the crank so this is the way to go
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Old November 26th, 2013, 14:29   #89
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OK thanks for all the tips I didn't mean to offend you or anything with asking if you could help... But greatly appreciate the help, I would be scared to grind down the crank so this is the way to go
No offense taken. I had a 1.8t longitudinal auto engine laying around, it might be still here... I'll see if I can get a couple measurements on it. You may be able to just make a sleeve to fit the regular 1.8t pilot bearing. The hole in the auto crank is 24mm (once the converter pilot bushing is removed). The manual is 21mm. That leaves 1.5mm wall thickness for your sleeve. If the sleeve were made a bit longer than the bearing it could stick out from the crank and give the proper depth of engagement as well.
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Old December 9th, 2013, 10:42   #90
santacll
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Default need to produce table with details

I can see that there is a lot of info, and it is a bit scattered and disjointed, this thread dealing with 6spd conversion is a great start

can be pull together a recommended table?

and list the things needed fro a 6 spd swap? and list the issues unless someone has already done so.

I am pretty much half a continent away from all of you , and i would like to be proactive and start assembling the parts well in advance

my personal preference is a 5 sped swap so i will want to see feedback on that too, since i would only do a chip to +1.5 if at all

topics to cover are

transaxle model
flywheel, clutch, PP ,
starter
subframe and mounts
axles
pedals, cluch cyl, switch
ecm modes cruise, starter interlocks
shift linkage


any of you pioneers willing to share the info ?
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