My thoughts:
1. "As for tools, you'll need jacking tools and car stands; triple square bits to remove the CV shaft flange bolts; and a 200-250 ftlb torgue wrench to set the hub wheel nut "by the book"."
I have never used a torque wrench for the 30 MM axle nut, but I do torque the nut correctly. I first snug the nut down with a half inch drive ratchet. I finish all my work, and lower the car to the ground (tire on). Since I weigh a shade under 200 pounds, I just stand with one foot on my breaker bar with the 30 MM socket on it, at right angles to the nut, the handle parallel to the ground. The center of my foot is about 15 inches from the center of the socket. The tightest the nut will get doing this is a little over 200 ft. lbs. You do have to reset the socket and breaker bar a few times since the nut roates as it tightens, moving the breaker bar from parallel to the ground. The final resting point of the breaker bar has to be parallel to the ground, with you standing on one foot for this to be accurate. I gently hold onto the roof to stay on the breaker bar.
Most rebuilt drive axles I have bought are loose and "floppy", not nice and tight like OEM new joints, but I have had "rebuilts" last a long time. Get a lifetime warranty one and keep the receipt! You will never buy another axle for that side! I even warrantied one once after road debris tore a boot!
Its best if you can keep your old joints and just replace the boot (if the old boot is gone). If the joint is bad, you can't do this.
--Nate.