1990 pickup ahu swap

Hello everyone. I have been following tdi club for awhile now and I need some help please. I found an ahu engine and swapped it in to replace my thirsty V6. the engine is in place and the wiring is done. I can read the ecu using vcds and I don't have any codes. The problem is the i can't get to start.

I have the ecu tapped in with the efi relay and kept the intank pump hooked. The cel and glow plug lights are hooked up. The injection pump doesn't seem to work though. i cracked open all the injectors and no diesel is coming out.

The sweeper arm inside the injection pump doesn't much. I opened the injection pump and disconnected the fuel before i started turning it over and the sweeper arm in the pump makes a single movement. that's it. just wondering if there's something i can do to fix it. Any help would be really appreciated.

The first sweep is a check, similar to the tach's in newer vehicles when first turned on. If the sweep does not reach its max/min point or does not happen, a CEL results.

No CEL? Dont think I've seen a single swap done yet that didnt have a CEL when first connected to VCDS. Unless you cleared them all already? Id be very suprised if there wasnt a single code in your ecu.

Did you prime your IP with a mityvac or similar? I guess if you have the stock pump still installed that would prime, is the fuel pump coming on?

A word of caution, I've read that the stock yota pump output pressure is too high for the VW fuel system. Might want to do some research on that before you create some problem.

Also there is a relay that the ECU needs to see or it will NOT start. I think it is the N109 relay, slipping my mind at the moment.

How confident are you in regard to your wiring?

Also, get a clear piece of fuel hose from your filter to your IP. Easy way to see whats going on with your fuel.

i did have codes but i solved them.

1 Faults Found:
00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

2 Faults Found:
00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

01117 - Generator Terminal DF Load Signal
27-00 - Implausible Signal

1 Fault Found:

00626 - Glow Plug Indicator Light (K29)
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

1 Fault Found:
01117 - Generator Terminal DF Load Signal
27-00 - Implausible Signal

i don't have any codes after today. expect for the alternator df load signal. i lost the connector going into the alternator, so i don't know what side of the alternator connector is blue or red/black. some insight would awesome as well.

I did do my research on the pump. but i don't see why it would stop my engine from starting.

109 relay is correct and following your thread, i tapped the efi relay. I'm no guru with electronics. i took my multimeter to every pin on the ecu connector and matching connector.

Checks:

-Fuel cut off solenoid wired correctly
-Clicking/Sweep from IP, this confirms it is working
-Remove fuel line into IP and confirm fuel flow
-Confirm N109 wiring

Yea my fuel cut off valve wire was cut, it's fixed. I have one sweep from the ip. I have plenty of fuel going to the pump. I'll confirm the 109 relay tomorrow.

Yea I did wire up the 109 relay wrong... Probably drank to much that day. Lol. It's raining outside so I don't feel like getting wet. Thanks for the help Tdi.

Any information on the alternator connector would awesome. Just need to know which wire is blue on the alternator connector.

yotawagen said:

Yea I did wire up the 109 relay wrong... Probably drank to much that day. Lol. It's raining outside so I don't feel like getting wet. Thanks for the help Tdi.

Any information on the alternator connector would awesome. Just need to know which wire is blue on the alternator connector.

Click to expand...

blue wire will hook directly to your toyota's alternator light wire...so look at the toy diagrams and see which wire goes from the light to the ALT ....iirc it's a solid yellow but double check me on that...

hey jimbote. nice job are your swap. well I'm actually looking for info on the actual connector itself. you see, i lost the original connector and i'm using a different connector to take its place. I know they're both exciter wires but just incase, I would like to know on the connector that inserts into the alternator, which is blue or red/black.

yea so now I don't have any sweep.. i don't have any codes and there's a direct connection to the ecu from n109. there's plenty of diesel coming through. maybe i just don't understand relays...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehFUP2ar7Gs

I took a video. You'll see the fuel coming outta of the ip. Fuel cut off is hook up directly to the ecu, no connector in between.

i did find the alternator wire that connects to pin 68/39 red/black. thanks jimbote for the help.

Any insight would be awesome. thank you.

got more done on the truck today. Hooked up vacuum lines and I read the computer again. I get a code 00532 - supply voltage B+, meaning the signal is too low or I wired something wrong again. There's another code 00126 - no idea what it is.. probably something minor?

Anyways. I did a sas and re-geared the diffs to 4.30. I also kept the R-150 transmission so I didn't need to move the drivetrain forward. Actually, I have lots of room between the firewall and the back of the head.

The intake system is from siliconeintakes.com, plus a welded section done by me. Being a welder/sheetmetal work it wasn't so hard. Its been awhile lets say that. I found some 1" ID alu pipe and welded that on for the AIT sensor. I swear that pipe was made in Taiwan, the welds holding that thing are huge and horrid looking. But it turned out looking like stock. I used 1/8 NPT with 1/8 nipples for the vacuum lines and mani pressure line going to the thinkbox.

I had some problem with starters that would fit. So I made a adapter plate to turn the starter 20-30 degrees towards the passengers side and it works perfectly. I'm using a starter from a 99 taco 1.8 KW.

The "GO" pedal... that took some thinking and some beer to find a place to put it. I made a mount, welded it to the inside the engine bay where the toyota air filter would go. On the original V6 motor had a throttle cable mount on the intake, I took that and mounted it close to G79. Hooked up the throttle cable and VOILA!

Thanks to lukewilson and toyotatdi for mentioning what sensors needed to run the engine properly. I think I left more hooked up than I needed... I think...

When I was making mounts for the engine. On the passenger side, there was one good spot on the passenger side but the drivers was so easy. I have read that people going in behind the oil filter and cooler. Then I found it, where the engine goes to acme adapter plate and then transmission. Got some longer bolts to fit through the trannie, adapter plate, engine and into the new engine mount. I also used the old trannie mounts from the V6, temporarily, until I find better mounts without 310k km on them... lol

For the dash, probably going to make one out of sheet metal. Eliminate the toyota crap oil and coolant gauges. That way I can fit most of the gauges I want into the cluster. Have the more important gauges on the dash and the rest on the pillar.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=meuNOUFf_Ds

I have sweep!! But I think it's only half though. I have code 00626 I think. Either way it's the glow plug light - short to ground. I'll figure that out later.

so trying to find TDC, I removed cylinder one glow pug and inserted my dial indicator with 4" extension. Yea something terrible happen... not to pleased with it either. I broke the end on the extension inside the motor and I bent the probe too. Well looks like I'm doing a HG change replacing the head bolts.

correct me if i'm wrong, pin 68/48 is glow plug light? because now I don't have any sweep and 00626 code is the only one up. Would that GPL actually stop the IQ from sweeping?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlRqhSv-vJw&list=FLw2iy5QqIrPBjNO87emyKQg&feature=mh_lolz

i think thats right. what do you fellow TDIers think?

looks ok to me ....

too bad its -50 degrees Celsius outside or else i would be working on getting it started.

bentley manual on the way!

It's been awhile but... I found something interesting. I primed my injector pump and cracked the cylinder one injector about half a turn. No diesel came out. But pressure is being built inside the pump, it's actually leaking out of the seam between the QA and the pump body.

Any ideas? I starting to think the pump is really out to town on the timing.

yotawagen said:

It's been awhile but... I found something interesting. I primed my injector pump and cracked the cylinder one injector about half a turn. No diesel came out. But pressure is being built inside the pump, it's actually leaking out of the seam between the QA and the pump body.

Any ideas? I starting to think the pump is really out to town on the timing.

Click to expand...

How long did you crank it for while the nut was cracked? And I'm tired right now, and out of it, so bear with me when I ask, what is the QA?

I'd assume quantity adjuster samuraitd^
I had similar issues getting mine to start, saw a very small bit of fuel when the nuts on the injectors were cracked, just enough to get things wet on like 1 or two injectors. Totally felt like it was making pressure in the pump but just not passing it on to the injector.
Turned out it was the large circular connector. One of the pins wasn't getting a good connection, plus the rubber gasket was preventing it from mating very well. I fiddled around with the pins and ditched the rubber gasket on it and it roared to life pretty much immediately. If you don't have any major codes and your main relay is sending power to the ecu then it's could definitely be an issue in the connector to the engine not passing on to the quantity adjuster to start injecting fuel.

Alcahoulic, I've been keeping tracking of your swap. Very nice truck and the tdi sounds pretty awesome. Even thouggh it's snowing, I'll see if I can pull it apart.

Thank you for the suggestion Alcahoulic but the 24 pin connector on the engine was not the problem. Other than taking serious hand strength to twist, i got it off and check things out. No corrosion that I see and none of the pins were bent. That can be cross off the "to do list".

I cranked it until the battery died on me. So quite a few times. It seems to me that the pump builds the pressure but its not getting to the injectors and with the fuel cut valve getting 12v directly, can't see why fuel just not flowing. Tomorrow I'll recheck the power supply relay.

some literature on Bosch ve pump

http://gnarlodious.com/vanagon/bosch_pump/bosch_ve_pumps.pdf

Just wondering what btdc is suppose to be. I mean the degree. I remember when I was messing around the measuring block on VSDS, stumbled across BTDC at 11 degrees. From what I'm reading the spec for BTDC is suppose to be 3-8 degree, or somewhere there.

Anybody mind confirming using VSDS and finding out what their BTDC degrees is set at.

do you have both power wires showing 12v to the pump ? on ALH there is a red/lilac and a yellow/black

well its done being minus 40 degree Celsius and so i pulled out by harness. Found some mistakes like 4 pin connector.

1 - blue
2 - green/blue
3 - green/red
4 - black/yellow

I know black/yellow is 12+ switch power from the ignition off of the ECU, but, I traced the black/yellow wire to a splice or "T". One end goes to a single black/yellow connector and the other end goes to a 10 connector. I have no idea where this leads to and I sent 2 days on finding out if those connectors are important.

Plus I stumbled upon something like the clutch interlock relay. No clue what that means either. But i figure I need that relay and the green clutch switch and the alarm module.

I checked the wiring harness and it seems everything is good, other than stated above.

nevermind i just found its the coolant fan control module. I yook the control module and plugged it into the 10 pin connector and a 4 pin 3 wire connector. All I did from there is trace wires and eliminated everything i didn't need.

I feeling pretty good about this now!

Well not much progress now. I don't know how I did it, but I can't get power to the ECU. But before that, I was getting some funky. I hooked up everything, r109, ecu, all the sensors and relays. When I connected the battery and turned the key to "ON" position, all of my relays and solenoids were clicking. Not like the normal click once and its good to go, but they kept on clicking. click. click. click. click. click. click.

No idea what that means, so I disconnected everything but r109 and that was still clicking.

The last terminal on R109 is blanked but it shown in bentley manual as a ground, so I connected it to the negative on the battery. So either something is wrong with the ECU, or I've screwed up something.

Black - switch 12v
Blk/vio - R109 terminal 85
white - off the battery hot at all time (haat) R109 Terminal 87
blue/red - R109 terminal 30

I opened up the ecu to see if there was any water or condensation but I found nothing.
Pretty close on getting a new pump and ECU unit and see if that solves the problem. I also opened r109 and found nothing out of the ordinary.

**** yea bud!! Got it started running strong. Got a big list of stuff on the truck tomorrow, like antifreeze lines and exhaust. I might make a run to my local coffee shop :O Thank you to posted and.. i guess.. stayed interested. Thank you tdi club and the members who has done the swap and documented it.

I'm so happy right now. For a diesel motor that has no exhaust pipe on it, it was pretty quite. Hell I was louder than the truck was!

Toyota TDI

I need help with hooking up my 98 TDI ecu any info would be grate. Mainly which wires need power and what needs to be hooked up to the ECU to make it run.