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Mid-west USA Local discussions for those on the Mid-West US. ( Minnesota, Iowa, Wisconsin, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Nebraska, North Dakota, South Dakota, Kansas, Missouri)

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Old February 21st, 2020, 20:15   #8161
GlowBugTDI
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Originally Posted by [486] View Post
all you need is a 13mm short socket and ratchet, and a channellocks to adjust the timing
pull the timing cover, make note of where the three pump flange bolts are in their slots, loosen them (the pump shaft might jump forward or back at this point) then just set it a little bit clockwise of where it was and hold while tightening the 3 13's back up again

they might be 12mm heads if they've been replaced
if it is too far advanced it'll just set a totally ignorable trouble code, it'll set codes about 5 degrees before you even reach where it'll start nicest

if you manage to adjust it way too far you'll just have hard starting and bad fuel economy. You just about can't hurt these motors with the stock fuel injectors' output
i just don't know a whole lot when it comes to timing. and idk it it's retarded, or the injectors are failing...
the reason i haven't done injectors is i felt like if im gonna put money into injectors i might as well upgrade (like the euro ones), but ive read you might as well do a tune before that. but i can't spend the money for a malone stage2 tune, clutch and having injectors popped, so now i just wait and think about having a stage 2 car lol... until i bite the bullet and send them in for stock tips.

Last edited by GlowBugTDI; February 21st, 2020 at 20:17.
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Old February 23rd, 2020, 11:32   #8162
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After 14 years and 215K, I needed rear brakes. But After 14 salty winters, I wasn't able to get the bracket off to replaced the rotors. Since they original pads lasted so long, I hope the new pads make it 100K with the small ring I had in one.
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Old February 24th, 2020, 14:08   #8163
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still selling the wagon, or going all in on it?
Well I am thinking of selling all the 5 speed swap stuff separate now. Nice 5 speed with Wavetrac, 5 speed axles, South Bend Stage 2 clutch 23 lb steel flywheel, all sorts of cables and pedals etc. Maybe I should have a garage sale and sell all the parts.

Right now I am thinking of driving it until the transmission fails then sell it as is.
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Old February 25th, 2020, 07:01   #8164
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After 14 years and 215K, I needed rear brakes. But After 14 salty winters, I wasn't able to get the bracket off to replaced the rotors. Since they original pads lasted so long, I hope the new pads make it 100K with the small ring I had in one.
What bracket? With the pads and their carrier removed the rotor comes right out.
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Old February 25th, 2020, 07:09   #8165
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What bracket? With the pads and their carrier removed the rotor comes right out.
on mk4 you can get the rear rotors out without removing the caliper bracket, mk6 may not be the same story
I know that the A-4 chassis is pretty unique in this and every lifelong mechanic is astounded when I show them that.
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Old February 25th, 2020, 10:17   #8166
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I mean the rear carrier, also the disc was going to take a lot more beating before it came loose.
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Old February 25th, 2020, 18:43   #8167
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I mean the rear carrier, also the disc was going to take a lot more beating before it came loose.
5lb sledge hammer for the win!
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Old February 25th, 2020, 20:03   #8168
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5lb sledge hammer for the win!
Oxy/Acetylene wrench for the win
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Old February 26th, 2020, 18:33   #8169
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Oxy/Acetylene wrench for the win
good to know! when my front strut (original) was stuck in the steering knuckle i just held a 3" by 2' round stock bar on top of the knuckle while my dad slammed it with a 35lb sledge hammer. gotta love the MN salt lol. didn't work (strut was to bouncey) so i re attached it to the top strut mount and jumped on it a few times, that did it.
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Old February 26th, 2020, 18:50   #8170
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i think im going to por-13 and epoxy the underside of my car this summer. all the spots that rust normally.
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Old February 26th, 2020, 19:15   #8171
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i think im going to por-13 and epoxy the underside of my car this summer. all the spots that rust normally.
pour 15? pour 15 is great and really hard, but it's a little watery so don't do it on cement if you can. you can also go over light rust and it'll cover/stop it.

im buying a sand blaster to do the same thing to my calipers rotors, a-arms ect. idk if ill used pour-15 or truck bed liner tho.

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Old February 26th, 2020, 20:08   #8172
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yeah por 15. info in my head gets jumbled sometimes. id just do the wire brush way. my underbody is very clean. And i want to keep it that way. i plan on driving this car till its done. mamy years. hoping i can get 15+ years from it.
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Old February 26th, 2020, 21:20   #8173
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yeah por 15. info in my head gets jumbled sometimes. id just do the wire brush way. my underbody is very clean. And i want to keep it that way. i plan on driving this car till its done. mamy years. hoping i can get 15+ years from it.
hehe, happens to me all the time, and im only 19. I was pretty sure, but i wanted to make sure i was thinking of the same stuff. ya, a wire brush will work well, done that and pour-15 on a motorcycle frame before and it turned out good.
im only getting the sand blaster because theres a lot of small areas on the rotor, and caliper that i can't reach with a brush, and im just gonna paint it all down there.
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Old February 26th, 2020, 21:25   #8174
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https://www.lamin-x.com/automobile-p...-car-bras.html

you could also get something like this for right behind the front wheels where they usually rust out, and run it along the rockers. for added lower panel protection...

someday i want a fully line-x painted truck. make it winter proof....
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Old February 26th, 2020, 23:15   #8175
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/im having trouble waiting. just paid for a stage2 and dsg tune. i spent the better part of a day cleaning my summer wheels.
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