Hard shifting in low gears

Howdy ya'll,
So about a week ago my 2001 Jetta TDI 5 speed started having difficulty shifting.
There is no grinding unless going into reverse. when the car is shut off I can select any gear just fine. As I go up in gears it becomes easier to shift.
This has happened in the past, but I would just pull over and pump the clutch/turn the car on and off/shift through gears and the problem would go away.
I just replaced the slave cylinder and bled it and the problem still persists.
The clutch pedal works fine, engages 3/4 of the way down to the floor.
How screwed am I?

Try to rule out DMF failure.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=249825
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/threads/failed-dual-mass-flywheel-analysis.10119/
Or the clutch is wore out.
Not sure if any transmission issues will cause that, but you might try adjusting the shift cables.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=366633

Last time transmission fluid was changed? What kind of fluid?

I did a auto to manual swap last summer, Lucas SAE 75w-90 is the oil type, it's only been about 20,000 miles since I did the swap/changed the fluid.

Also the clutch is a DMF and was brand new.

Car starts fine, I think the DMF may not be failing, It is definitely the clutch not disengaging all the way, I've read else where that this may be hydraulics, a bad throw-out bearing, or a bent fork.

Maybe goop on the splines not allowing the disc to float and it's dragging against the flywheel? I wouldn't think it'd start happening in only 20k, though.

What did you put on the splines when you installed it?

How many miles on the trans?

KLXD said:

Maybe goop on the splines not allowing the disc to float and it's dragging against the flywheel? I wouldn't think it'd start happening in only 20k, though.
What did you put on the splines when you installed it?
How many miles on the trans?

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When I installed the trans last year I did lubricate the splines with the provided grease that came withe the DMF clutch.
I have no idea how many miles are on the trans.

I had a similar experience around the 220K miles mark. Shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 had to be down gingerly (as if the synchros were bad). I tried replacing the tranny fluid to AC Delco Synchromesh, adjusted the shifter linkage about 100 times, and finally took it to a mechanic at 280K miles. I had a Torsen installed, .681 5th gear set, clutch & flywheel installed. It turns out my original clutch had 2 out of 10 broken fingers on the pressure plate. The TO bearing looked fine and there was plenty of material on the disc. Perhaps your pressure plate is damaged like mine was.

Might be the first time I've heard of AC Delco Synchromesh not fixing shifting issues!

UhOh said:

Last time transmission fluid was changed? What kind of fluid?

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This here

samsonight said:

I did a auto to manual swap last summer, Lucas SAE 75w-90 is the oil type, it's only been about 20,000 miles since I did the swap/changed the fluid.

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Depending on your driving conditions, 20k could be enough to start breaking down the tranny fluid

UhOh said:

Might be the first time I've heard of AC Delco Synchromesh not fixing shifting issues!

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and this!

Before you dive into spending in the thousands to fix what might be a non-issue (clutch and related components), drain the tranny fluid and see what it looks like. Look for flakes (from the syncros). Then fill it back up with the AC Delco Syncro or Pennzoil snycromesh.

I developed hard shifting from first to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd. First to second would actually grind a bit. I had to shift extremely low in the RPM as well as very slow to get it not to grind. Second to third was just difficult, but no grinding. All of the signs of the clutch not releasing.

I drained the fluid first and replaced with Pennzoil Syncromesh, because it's the cheapest and easiest thing to do and rule out of the equation. The old fluid came out the consistency of water, but there was no metal so I dodged a bullet. It was broken down severely.

This would be my first step

I just changed the fluid, there didnt seem to be any metal i n it. I put Lucas SAE 75w-90 into it however (what I had on hand)

Sounds like the clutch is not releasing fully for some reason.
But before taking it all apart I would try bleeding the hydraulics and changing the trans fluid again with gm syncromesh.

Dump the Lucas and put in Pennzoil Synchromesh: or, you can locate AC Delco Syncromesh, but it's not at your local auto parts store like the Pennzoil is.

These transmissions really only like a few different fluids: I've named a couple; third would be VW (best would be G060, but it seems like VW has phased it out for G070, which, from what I've read, is a bit spotty for folks).

samsonight said:

I just changed the fluid, there didnt seem to be any metal i n it. I put Lucas SAE 75w-90 into it however (what I had on hand)

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Did you just change it after it's been suggested on this thread, or are you saying that you changed it 20k miles ago? If the latter, that's enough to start having issues!

UhOh said:

Dump the Lucas and put in Pennzoil Synchromesh: or, you can locate AC Delco Syncromesh, but it's not at your local auto parts store like the Pennzoil is.

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Yes, Yes, and yes again. Pretty sure VW dumped using their formula because they were finding that it was too thin. Syncros are a soft metal. They need a specific formula. Syncro's need synchromesh. Pennzoil or AC Delco.
Get rid of that gear oil.

KrashDH said:

Pretty sure VW dumped using their formula because they were finding that it was too thin. Syncros are a soft metal. They need a specific formula. Syncro's need synchromesh. Pennzoil or AC Delco.
Get rid of that gear oil.

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Their latest fluid, G070, is actually thinner, I believe: there's an epic thread here that goes way back, talking about G052. Seems that G052 and its replacement, G060, were mostly OK.

Folks should keep in mind that it might take a little while (but I don't think it should take more than 100 miles) for the new fluid to displace any of the old fluid that was coating all the parts.

UhOh said:

Their latest fluid, G070, is actually thinner, I believe: there's an epic thread here that goes way back, talking about G052. Seems that G052 and its replacement, G060, were mostly OK.

Folks should keep in mind that it might take a little while (but I don't think it should take more than 100 miles) for the new fluid to displace any of the old fluid that was coating all the parts.

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Good point. I think it took a bit less for me to notice it, driving around for a little bit got everything circulating. But problem solved!

The thing you should note with the syncromesh fluid is that the change interval will be less. I try to keep mine on 20-30k intervals. It's easy and cheap enough to do.

KrashDH said:

The thing you should note with the syncromesh fluid is that the change interval will be less. I try to keep mine on 20-30k intervals. It's easy and cheap enough to do.

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I hadn't heard about any need for a shortened change interval. Can you point me at a discussion of this? I went about 50k miles on the wife's car's fluid, only changing it because I was dropping the transmission to do the clutch.

It may be cheap if it's one's own labor, but when paying someone else to do it it starts piling up with all the other costs.

Fluid has no change interval, but yes, there certainly is discussion. Many feel it prudent to change out gear oil every 100,000 or 2, why not.
Seen many threads where fluid change/refresh has cured ills, but if it's really really hard to shift, it's not the fluid.

Bob, 100k miles seems more reasonable than 20-30k miles. I'd never, like VW, expect fluid to be "lifetime"

BobnOH said:

Many feel it prudent to change out gear oil every 100,000 or 2, why not.
Seen many threads where fluid change/refresh has cured ills, but if it's really really hard to shift, it's not the fluid.

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I'm that preventative maintenance type of guy. I'd rather not go until I feel something is "off" and do it on a regular schedule, especially since I don't pay anyone to do work. And in our case, it's almost easier or is easier than an oil change. Sure it might be overkill to most, just my habits.

I agree though, really hard to shift, something else may be up, related to the transmission. In the TDI and my Cummins, and although different beasts of transmissions, the syncromesh (vs other recommended fluids) has performed the best in both yet on the times I've let it get down to where the fluid is dang near water (on purpose for my own true mileage intevals) the syncromesh was the shortest interval out of them (but it always had the best feel)

"Reasonable" is really just a matter of opinion. 100k might be reasonable to one person, 30k is reasonable for me. I wouldn't personally let any fluids in my vehicles go 100k.

The lifetime claim for VW's tranny oil is a joke though!

OK, I might think about changes every other year (or about 50k miles) (hoping that people pay attention to the two-year change interval on brake fluids!)

UhOh said:

(hoping that people pay attention to the two-year change interval on brake fluids!)

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For sure a big one as absorption of water into the brake fluid can cause havok on sealed systems