Car won't start troubleshooting

Crappy battery? Does it start any better when jumped?

I can't see restricted fuel (check valve, etc) causing a hard start without also causing a hard run or restricted power. I keep coming back to loss of prime.

I'd clear those codes too and see if they reappear.

It turns over pretty quickly but that does not mean the battery or starter is not questionable. I can try swapping them from my other 96' passat TDI and see if it starts better.

HELP! my jetta 2000 TDI cranks but does not start... there's no glow plug light and no check engine light... when i try to read the ECU with the key at the "ON" position, there's no communication, the relay 109 as been verified and tested and does'nt seem to be the culprit (it was'nt replaced though and his the older black version).

I've had a few starting problems in the past when the car was hot, but when it cooled it was fine (tought it might be the 109 so i ordered 2 from IDparts but have yet to get them)

Car was working fine, and the glow plugs and harness where changed to fix the CEL but one of the GP snapped in the head, i thought that the head stripped but my mechanic says it's only snapped, but still works fine (so he told me to not bother with it since i can do few years with it) the remaining GP where replaced & the harness changed.

2 fuel lines where disconnected to help the GP change, but they were bled...

^the car is mostly stock and as my sig says, it's kerma TDI chipped. I can see the fuel circulate in the lines and the anti-shudder valve does'nt seem to be stuck...

Crazy cat, you can jump the terminals of the 109 relay so power flows just like if the relay was in there. You want a jumper between pins 30 and 87.

Thanks, but my mechanic says he pretty much ruled that out, do you think it could be anything else? can you fry a ECU? i really miss my jetta

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If the relay is black, throw it back. It will leave you stranded eventually so it's worth the few dollars. My question would be "how did the mechanic 'pretty much' rule it out?" What test did they do?

Well that's why i ordered 2 from idparts a few hours before my problems appeared... He said that he powered it and that there was clicking and a signal also (at least what i understood) it also passed visual inspection... But i'll try to jump the pins, i think i've also read about resetting ECM being an option... I'm frustrated that this car did'nt get better care by previous owner, i've fixed so many things and there's still so much left... I do love my VW and working on it, but right now i wish i had a beater car so i could afford to work myself on it... I hate taking my car to the garage...

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The thing with the relay is that it usually take heat to open up the cracks. After it cools, things often close up and it works fine.

but the car was not hot the last time it refused to start...

You have done the right thing in getting a new one. (Two is overkill in my opinion, but others disagree) If you can wait, put a new one in. Otherwise just jump it and see.

thank you for your time, i hope i can do something...

I also concur with getting the new relay 109 installed, no matter what testing shows.
If you have power to fuses 32, 34, 43 then you are getting power from your 109 relay.
Have you checked the power fuses to the ECU? Fuse 29 and 10 if built after May of '99.

You can ruin an ECU, it is not unheard of, but they are not high failure rate items.

There was one that came in, about a year and a half ago, that had a bad ECU. It quit soon after the car was washed. The ECU was full of water. The drains must have been clogged and water got sucked into the ECU vent port.

The ECU was opened, wiped dry, sprayed with computer cleaning "air" from a can, then dried with a hair drier on medium low heat. Care was taken to remove the visible corrosion from the board (it just took wiping with a towel). It has been working ever since.

I would also clean all the grounds, especially the one (or two - look around) in the windshield plenum with the ECU. But get the grounds under the battery as well, and on the transmission.

turns out my MAF was the problem?!? as soon as he unplugged it, the GP light and the CEL came back on and the car started normally, my MAF his dead... so relieved
thanks for the help

Starting problem-No crank

Need help troubleshooting 2000 TDI Jetta 5 speed with 250k miles given to son-in-law who lives 3 hrs away.
Would not start for daughter after she drove to mall.
Turn key but no cranking.
CEL, brake, Battery,GP,seat belt lights all come on, however when key is removed they stay on and battery has to be disconnected to turn them off.
Also window, door locks, trunk release, wipers and fan all work with or without key in ignition.
Also radio and FOB do not work.
Ignition switch bad ????????

rskovira said:

Ignition switch bad ????????

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That would be my first guess.

whitedog said:

That would be my first guess.

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Certainly the item that hits all symptoms. If it's not the ignition switch, perhaps there's a revolution going on in the ecu.

Ignition switch -> steering locking

Metal blade that engages into switch is broke off. I can start car by rotating switch to run and jumping the starter solenoid. Next issue, how do I disable the steering lock mechanism? If I knock out the rectangular plate on the bottom of the housing can the locking parts be pulled out?

rskovira said:

Metal blade that engages into switch is broke off. I can start car by rotating switch to run and jumping the starter solenoid. Next issue, how do I disable the steering lock mechanism? If I knock out the rectangular plate on the bottom of the housing can the locking parts be pulled out?

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Well, that's a new one as far as I know and I don't know the answer. Hopefully someone else will know.

I'm not sure what your issue is exactly. Does the key not disable the column lock now?

We by passed the starter and now can get the car running however I can not drive it far as the steering lock is engages. I wanted to drive the car back to my garage in PA to work on it.

Addition to TDI 101 car won't start troubleshoot, line 7

I had the same problem with my 2000 Golf 1.9 TDI described in TD 101 Car won't start troubleshoot, line 7. Started, ran for seconds, and died. Immobilizer fixes did not change symptoms. Gleaned tons of information from this website and still got no joy. Got diagnosed at a dealer for too much money. Turns out that the anti shudder valve (ASV) is actuated by another valve that is located directly underneath it that is listed as N239 and called by the dealer an intake flap change over valve, and by this web site as an intake manifold change-over control valve (DTC 19561). It is an electrically operated shuttle valve that provides vacuum to the ASV upon shutdown to pull the ASV valve shut and deprive the engine of oxygen for an immediate shutoff.
When it malfunctions and allows vacuum to flow, the engine will start and run for a short period until enough vacuum is generated to actuate the ASV, thus producing the same symptom as an immobilizer problem.
Pulling the vacuum line off the ASV will tell you if that is the problem. If it is, the car will run fine until you can replace the valve. Be sure to plug the unconnected vacuum line.

jbgibber, thanks for that. I will add it to the list.

Herm TDI said:

Engine Info: ALH
Symptoms: Engine starts flawlessly, runs for three seconds and then stalls. No DTC's
Diagnostic results:
Found defective N-239. The change over (ASV) solenoid was porting applied vacuum to the ASV as soon as the engine was started.
This constant applied vacuum would hold the ASV closed anytime the engine was running.
One more item to check when you have this symptom...Engine starts and then soon stalls.
Diesel on

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Good Stuff - similar to immobilizer behavior

2000 jetta starting problem

checked this it seems at times intermitent but narrowed down no voltage to injection pump solenoid so no fuel supply any ideas?
wonderd what would eliminate power to this / when powered by a jumper car will start.
ecm other sensors or immobilzer?
any help appreciated
lee
battery voltage fine , but no voltage to activate solenoid on injection pump when not starting

Low battery voltage?

Fuel ran out!

Hey guys,

Just wanted to share my experience with our newer to us TDI. We've got a 2001 VW Golf that wouldn't start suddenly, my GFs car. I needed to move it in the driveway the other day and I hopped in, waited for the insta-glow-plug-light-go-out and cranked it. it cranked for 6 seconds or so before firing - never seen this happen... instantly thought glow plug... but it's way too warm. Moved the car, no problem. shut it off and restarted it with zero effort.

I asked the GF if she had any issues with it, she said no. I told her to keep me posted because it just cranked longer for me. She got in the car the next morning and it fired right up for her. She drove it to drop the kids off at day camp (15 mins) and forgot her badge for work at home. She drove home (another 15 mins) and snagged her badge. Went back out to the car... wouldn't start. Just cranked n' cranked.

I checked the gauge, she was just under 1/4 tank. She has been driving it until near the light would come on, every tank prior. I checked the EGR & the valve setup and all was in perfect working order. The clear line to the injection pump showed fuel with a little bit of air, but nothing too concerning. Checked 12v at the fuel solenoid was there, and stayed during cranking. Was spooked by the way it would go off if you didn't crank at first, but found on the forum that's the norm.

Long story short, through all of my diagnostics, it had fuel, until that last set of cranking -- suddenly, the clear hose was empty! Doubleya Tee Eff!?

Sent the GF away to get diesel. 10 gallons later, vacuum primed the fuel system up to the pump and on the 2nd set of 30 second cranking? Started right up. Been going for a few days now.

As I sent the girlie to get the diesel she says "You know, I was doing really well on this tank of fuel, it's more miles than I've ever got!" ... I suppose this is what I get to pointing her to read about hypermiling. I told her she could coast down the hills, which she has lots of, but don't be a menace to society!

Anyway, just wanted another situation for people to keep in mind. I know it seems simple, but the fact was I saw fuel in the clear line the whole time, and the gauge showed fuel too. Now she knows if it's at 500 miles on the tank, go fill up anyway.

-Dave

so the long and short of the matter is not having the right tool for the right job gotta love em..Dr.diesle and yes I do have some pumps if you need

I've tried to read through all the discussions to diagnose the issue I am having so if I have missed it i apologize.

Anyway, here is my scenario. '96 Passat (1Z). Noticed a couple months ago that the GP light would only stay on for a second or so. It was warm outside, car started fine, ran fine so I really didn't think anything of it. Then a couple weeks ago car began to start harder (had to turn over more times before starting). Again, car started and ran fine. Then it really got hard to start. it would take a few attempts. Started looking for solutions. unplugged coolant sensor. Light stayed on longer but did not really help the starting issue. Replaced sensor anyway. No change. Finally car died at the first corner I came to (twice). Luckily it restarted (hard) both times. Drove to my destination and would not start. Car turns over fine. Will fire occasionally. Unhooked glow plugs and sprayed ether in the airbox. started and ran fine. Drove over 10 miles. Parked, shut off and would not restart. Replaced glow plugs. No change. No bubbles in fuel lines. Have VAG-COM and another '96 to swap parts from. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Forget the glow plugs. In warm weather, they are not needed.

You need to start looking at the injection pump. Check your timing in basic settings and see what comes up.

First check the timing belt to see if it's loose. I am thinking that your timing is getting retarded for some reason. Either the belt is coming loose, or what's common on a 1Z is that the nose of the crank is whack and allowing the timing to move around.