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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old February 16th, 2017, 08:01   #1
EcoJettaCT
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Question New Battery for my 2010 Sportwagon

My car is occasionally having trouble starting. The battery was tested at the local VW service center and I was told it is failing.

I intend to turn this car in at the end of the buyback period (Sept. 2018, right?). So I won't have it more than 2 years.

What battery would you all recommend I get? I want to limit my expenses on the car, but I do need it to be reliable until I turn it in.

VW Dealer/Service Center cost to replace it $200.
Auto Zone has an H6-DLG battery with 72 reserve minutes for $150
Walmart has an H6-3 battery, unknown the reserve minutes for $107.83

Are there other specifications I should be considering beyond H6 size and 72 ah?

Thanks!
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Old February 16th, 2017, 13:28   #2
jesssssser
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I got the dealer battery and installed it myself. It wasn't difficult, if you've got a set of sockets and you're somewhat handy.

I think it was 120 or so
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Old February 16th, 2017, 18:19   #3
gmcjetpilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EcoJettaCT View Post
My car is occasionally having trouble starting.
VW Dealer/Service Center cost to replace it $200.
Auto Zone has an H6-DLG battery with 72 reserve minutes for $150
Walmart has an H6-3 battery, unknown the reserve minutes for $107.83

Are there other specifications I should be considering beyond H6 size and 72 ah?

Thanks!
Yes your battery is bad. H6 top post is correct.

WALMART YES but get the EverStart Maxx $117 (Walmart #: 001072418), 730 AMP Battery with 5 Yr warranty.

The cheaper $107 one is 2 year warranty and 615 AMP... Get the more expensive one, $10 is worth it, even if you are returning car. The more expensive battery has more reserve power, will start car better, and it may save you some day if say you leave lights on.

ALL automotive batteries are made in the same few factories. In fact the battery Wal-Mart has is likely made in the same factory as the Autozone battery. Same battery except for label.
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Last edited by gmcjetpilot; February 16th, 2017 at 18:25.
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Old February 16th, 2017, 18:55   #4
dubStrom
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Default buy a tool or throw money at it

This brings up the old question of whether a strategic investment in a long term valuable tool, or a disposable part replacement makes more sense.
As a rule, I have ALWAYS opted for the tool. In the end, I have the tool and most often, solved the problem.
Look up a floating charger ($40). All you are required is that the car start up upon delivery to the dealership. I had my charger on the car 2 days before the turn in day. Guess what...... it started.
I did not buy a battery to give to VW (maybe headed for the crusher, new battery and my money!!). AND, I have the charger (I did already, LONG ago so I own the charger(s). But you see what I am saying.
Your choice. Buy a new battery, or buy a tool. I know exactly what I would do...
I have battery acid and topped of the battery in a '03 Jetta wagon that was "dead". No really. DEAD. A week on the floating charger, and the battery is popping amperage. No reason to buy a battery. Yay. Workin' live with amperage!!
And don't forget. All you need is for the engine to start. Follow the first link, below. See the orange extension cord in the last photo in post #14?
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Last edited by dubStrom; March 2nd, 2017 at 20:20.
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Old February 17th, 2017, 07:39   #5
DanB36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubStrom View Post
All you need is for the engine to start.
...every day, for the next year and a half. That's a long time to keep going with a dead battery, even if you do plug it into a charger every night.
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Old February 23rd, 2017, 08:50   #6
EcoJettaCT
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Smile Thanks for your responses!

Thank you for the follow up information. It's great to get some different points of view.

Our car is running just fine right now and we haven't needed a jump. What I realized was that my husband was sitting in the car (while it was off) listening to the radio while waiting to pick up the kids. He won't be doing that any more.

I think we can eek out more life out of this battery and when it seems necessary we will decide on buying a replacement or using the floating charger.

TDIClub people are the best!
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Old February 24th, 2017, 10:08   #7
kooyajerms
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buy one of these portable jump starters. you can take it with you when you dump the wagon ;(

https://www.amazon.com/Beatit-14000m.../dp/B01DGJHV8K

Beatit 600peak cranking amps is good for our diesels, use it for charging your phones in your bag too its so small. Actually tried a couple other popular models, but they were not up to snuff on the diesel starter (Anker Ultra Compact, Winplus from Costco).

I was having issues with the battery for months, and got one of these. worked a couple times but a dead battery doesn't like being jumped. Didn't like being trickle charged at home either.

So we bought the Superstart Extreme Group 48 from O'reilly's. $150 and got them to reduce it to $130 (shop price) But you won't want one of those if you are going to turn it in.
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Old February 24th, 2017, 12:34   #8
EcoJettaCT
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Thank you, BeatIt is a neat product!
Great to have options!
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Old March 2nd, 2017, 20:23   #9
dubStrom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanB36 View Post
...every day, for the next year and a half. That's a long time to keep going with a dead battery, even if you do plug it into a charger every night.
I agree. If you are keeping a car, and it won't hold a charge for more than a day or two, get a new battery. But if you are turning the car in for buyback, buy the charger, and keep it!
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Old March 3rd, 2017, 11:17   #10
kooyajerms
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I take back my recommendation on the compact jump starter.

If how many CCA's our batteries have is any clue to what kind of jump starter we need, these small units haven't worked out after all. Replaced the old battery with Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 730 CCA/Cranking Amps (CA): 900 CA (not to say we need 800 peak for sure, but more does seem better)

I've tried a a few different models now, and the winplus 350 peak, anker 400 peak beat it 600 peak have all failed. Even though recommendation on the last unit was for a 3.0L diesel. This is on a new battery that was drained due to the radio. Battery was showing 11.9 volts at the time of jump start attempt.

If the sellers showed more info regarding starting current, I think that's the number they can at least hold for some longer cranking. The peaks I'm sure are all lies.


I will now try another unit at 700/800 peak amps and see how it goes. I don't mind testing these things out as returns aren't a big deal to me. I can't see what gauge the wires are, but I think that's limiting these small guys.
(Don't buy the Noco 1000amp unit btw, trash from reviews Ive seen).

If I had a good multimeter to test true amps, it would be great but I don't.

If I can get it to start the car without a battery, I think I'm good to go ;/

Everyone I know with the jump starters have been using it on gassers.




Quote:
Originally Posted by kooyajerms View Post
buy one of these portable jump starters. you can take it with you when you dump the wagon ;(

https://www.amazon.com/Beatit-14000m.../dp/B01DGJHV8K

Beatit 600peak cranking amps is good for our diesels, use it for charging your phones in your bag too its so small. Actually tried a couple other popular models, but they were not up to snuff on the diesel starter (Anker Ultra Compact, Winplus from Costco).

I was having issues with the battery for months, and got one of these. worked a couple times but a dead battery doesn't like being jumped. Didn't like being trickle charged at home either.

So we bought the Superstart Extreme Group 48 from O'reilly's. $150 and got them to reduce it to $130 (shop price) But you won't want one of those if you are going to turn it in.

Last edited by kooyajerms; March 3rd, 2017 at 11:57. Reason: changed more info
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Old March 8th, 2017, 14:43   #11
robertsparker
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I bought a new Autozone Duralast version 2 years ago. (AGM Version).. It has been working great. I'd hate to stop somewhere while out, and come back to a car and have it go click... If you want to ride the wave to total failure, carry a pair of jumper cables, in the trunk so the car next to you can give you a jump.. On my experinece, my battery failed suddenly and would not take a charge at 4 years of age... If your not into replacing it, I'd recommended getting a charger, and volt meter, and take some occosaonal voltage readings.. (IE reading Before Charge, , Charge it 5 hours, Reading 2, Let it sit 12 hours, Reading 3, Drive a few days, Reading 4... Compare results. Maybe you just drew the battery down by leaving someting on, and it just needs a full cahrge. (A fully charged battery should read about 13.2 volts, turned off after recharging Mine lost a cell, and was at the 11.x range no load, and never could crank on its own, ever after 8 hours on the charger)
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Old March 15th, 2017, 13:24   #12
DSL HED
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I'm keeping my car until the end as well. My battery died on election day (Nov 8th) last year. I got a jump and went down to the dealer and paid $136 for a VW battery. Worth the money IMO since I plan to keep it for another 2 years or so.
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Old March 28th, 2017, 07:53   #13
bobt2382
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I bought this same Duralast battery in Dec 2013 from Autozone ( in California).

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...32332_707129_0

Never really held a full charge the last 18 months. I had it "tested" at the local Autozone ( New Jersey), 7 days after their 36 month free replacement warranty. They recharged it and said it was good-to-go. I have suspected it has a bad cell for quite awhile. Car wouldn't start last evening.

Well, went back to Autozone to have them pro-rate it and buy the same Duracell since the listed specs are ok. Was really surprised to see a "Made in China" sticker on the top of the battery! The salesperson started to remove the sticker and I told her not to remove it as I needed to take pictures of the battery with the sticker. Kind of got the impression that they are "supposed" to remove the stickers before they put them on the shelves.

Guess Johnson Controls has gone the way of cheapest supplier!

Anyway, if you are shopping for a non Chinese manufactured battery, Duralast batteries may not be an option.

My picture posting on this site has been broken for a couple of years. I'll post a link when I get it uploaded to DropBox.
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Old April 1st, 2017, 20:04   #14
MoparGreg
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Eco, I feel your pain.

First, I am not a gearhead, I don't do my own maintenance, and I took our 2010 JSW to the dealer for all maintenance, which was quite expensive. I had the original battery in our JSW when I took the buyback last week. The car was parked since December 2016 and starting it the day before the buyback was problematic.

That being said, you could purchase a "Battery Tender" charger which is supposed to knock the sulfate off the battery plates, but that particular charger is almost as expensive as a new battery. I purchased a Schum.... battery tender and used it a couple of times until I didn't on the JSW. It was a quarter of the cost of a new battery and may get you another 1.5 years on your battery, or not. Since you are keeping your JSW another year and a half, just get the cheapest battery in your area that matches VW specs and hope for the best. It will probably last your ownership, especially if the warranty is for two years, and if it doesn't, you will be able to replace it for free.

Good luck with whatever your decide.

Greg
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Old April 9th, 2017, 08:27   #15
sardawg
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Has anyone had any issues after changing their battery? I installed a new odyssey battery yesterday and now I have ESP, airbag, and ABS codes. Has anyone else experienced this? I tried to clear them through VCDS but they won't clear.
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