90A alternator => 120A alternator direct swap?

d2305

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14 Ram EcoDiesel
Make sure the wire connectors are the same. The 120a are on the 5 speed and the 90a are on the slush box. The pulleys are the same.
 

NB_TDi

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d2305 said:
Make sure the wire connectors are the same. The 120a are on the 5 speed and the 90a are on the slush box. The pulleys are the same.
I was told my mogolf that it's a random mix actually. I thought the same as you, but it's untrue.
 

TDIJetta99

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I have never once seen a 90A on a 5-speed ALH... I have seen a few 120A on slushbox cars though.. I've also seen quite a number of slushbox 90A alternators with solid pulleys...
 

TDIJetta99

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The solid pulley I'm referring to is a standard one piece pulley... non-clutching.. I might have one at the shop actually.. If I do I'll shoot a picture of the unit and post it here...
 

kbrenny

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Jul 9, 2008
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my 2001 golf (which was auto but is now manual) had a 90 amp with a solid pulley. I replaced it with a 120 amp wich came with a clutch pulley. I got mine from autozone and the first one charged great at 14.2 volts with very little drop under full load - 13.8 v. The problem with it was it had a 1.5 amp current draw on the battery when the car was turned off so after 12 - 24 hours of the car being parked the battery wouold be dead. Autozones tester only tested it to see if it was charging and they gave me a really hard time until I explained to the manager and offered to bring my amp meter and a battery to proove it to her. She finally gave in and let me exchange the alternator. I now show only 40 ma draw when the car is parked and everything is off. 20 ma is from the kenwood aftermarket stereo, the other 20 ma is from the ecu / instrument cluster circuits. This is well within the 10 to 60 ma which is cosidered acceptable.
 

TDIJetta99

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kbrenny said:
my 2001 golf (which was auto but is now manual) had a 90 amp with a solid pulley. I replaced it with a 120 amp wich came with a clutch pulley. I got mine from autozone and the first one charged great at 14.2 volts with very little drop under full load - 13.8 v. The problem with it was it had a 1.5 amp current draw on the battery when the car was turned off so after 12 - 24 hours of the car being parked the battery wouold be dead. Autozones tester only tested it to see if it was charging and they gave me a really hard time until I explained to the manager and offered to bring my amp meter and a battery to proove it to her. She finally gave in and let me exchange the alternator. I now show only 40 ma draw when the car is parked and everything is off. 20 ma is from the kenwood aftermarket stereo, the other 20 ma is from the ecu / instrument cluster circuits. This is well within the 10 to 60 ma which is cosidered acceptable.
I've actually had several bosch alternators do just that, 1-2amps while everything off.. Some from Autozone and some were OE, ahile one or two here and there from NAPA..
 

AndyBees

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I put a 90A on my 2000 ALH just to make sure it was a good ALt (good deal on the internet). Bolted right up and the connections worked fine too! Also, the shaft will accept either pulley. I made sure of that!
 

TDIJetta99

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heyman421 said:
An alternator's supposed to have a diode between the voltage regulator and the rectifier, to prevent reverse-travel of electricity. Sounds like it wasn't in working in your cases, or was mismatched to the application.
It's usually a diode failure.. A few of them were original units on the cars it was happening on.. I guess it's one of the things they don't always check when they rebuild them..
 
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