How-To: Flakey Turn Signal Clicking Fix.

Where do you use the WD40 to get it in the right direction of the mechanism? Do you just find an opening and spray? Last question, how long did your car smell like WD40 after the fix?

I would highly suggest to use CRC contact cleaner instead of WD-40 as it is really a better product for this application. Some users who have used WD-40 have reported some smoking steering column issues. Make sure the car is OFF and keep it turned OFF until the CRC dries. I let it alone on my car for 2 hours. Turn the turn signal to a left turn and spray in the upper are where the stalk goes into the column. Then do the same for a right turn. Do not overspray.

I did this fix about a month back and all is superb to this day.

I am a little frustrated with this problem. I bought a German car because it was supposed to be better than the rest. I have an old Corolla that's about 15 years old with around 165k and the turn signals have given me no problems just like the rest of the car. Changing this is not just a snap in or R&R a clam shell on the steering column. I'd like to see something that really ends the problem (apparently other mfgrs. have solved the issue). I seem to remember somewhere talk about a MkV or maybe later redesign that precludes dust and contamination from entering the switch and contacts. Is this the problem? Would enclosing the switch or contacts somehow help? Or is it the material the contacts are made of will over time begin to flake from arcing? If not, either way maybe there is a more permanent fix so we can do the job ONCE? Or at least maybe a "clam shell mod" so it can be replaced easier? I suppose the air bag would complicate that idea?

I have a
2002 Jetta with 360 KM and had the problem at 180 KM (bought it 6.5 years ago)
2003 Jetta with 270 KM and no problem with signal switch to-date((bought it 1.5 years ago.

Just replace the the signal switch or fix it as per this post and you are good to go "forever". It is a used car after all.

Both my TDI's have been almost trouble free. 2002 I had the turbo oil line and alternator replaced. 2003 just had the glow plugs replaced . German cars are great but not trouble free. Of course regular maintenance is important. I'm sure Toyota cars are no different.

TRJ,

Bummer that you are so frustrated by this. I only had to take everything apart once; the problem for me hasn't returned in over five years since performing the maintenance/repair that I demonstrated in this thread.

I brought up the Corolla because it doesn't seem to be a known problem in the design in that car/year model and might be something to compare. My car has just 60k original miles on it and the problem has shown up recently. I just got the car and am looking forward to owning it a long, long time. I am willing to put up with some "problems" for the trade off on other benefits such as the incredible fuel mileage of the Mk4. I know no vehicle is completely trouble free, it's just the second problem I've had in the 3k or so miles I've owned it. I expect my luck to change though. I was hoping to get some response to the questions I posed above from the collective wisdom and experience of the group. Information that might benefit us all if the contamination/contact metal/later model enclosure/"clam shell mod"/etc. issues were considered in the questions. I intend to drive this car until the wheels are about 2 inches in diameter....well, not literally! I find myself concerned about some drunk wiping it out before I can wear it out. They are very hard to find in this kind of condition!

Bump, any Ideas?

My experience

I've taken my stalk apart 4 times now. The first time, there was some debris in the way; I cleaned everything up and it worked fine for about 6 months. After 6 months though, it stopped working again. The 2nd and 3rd time I took it apart, I tried cleaning it and reapplying grease without any luck. The 4th time I realized I may have had some corrosion (the contacts seem to be made of copper). I took some sandpaper to the copper, but was unable to sand off the corrosion in the narrow areas and it still doesn't work; now I'm just going to buy a new stalk (about 70 dollars).

Lesson from this: I think I took too much grease off and didn't reapply enough when I cleaned it, thinking that the grease would trap debris. I believe if I had applied more nothing would have corroded and I would have been fine. The grease is cheap so apply it liberally .

My symptom is only left blinker doesn't work properly- if I hold it down with a little force, it works until I let it go. It doesn't pop back into neutral position, just to the end of the left turn mechanism. Right blinker, cruise control and brights all work without issue.

I don't find the steering wheel stalk too difficult to take apart. The hardest part is getting the cables off I think. My 4th time it took me about a half hour to take off everything.

I have to say thanks, the fix worked for me, seems there is a correct ammount of grease to use, 2001/2 was a bad batch. The difference to the procedure above is that I didn't remove the part from the steering but instead was able to undo the top cover of the stalk by use of a cable tie inserted to each of the two retaining clips - i.e. when the electrical connector block has been removed from the back of the switch then the cable tie can be pushed in from the rear to release in turn each of the two clips which (in addition to the four screws) hold the top of the swicht assembly in place.

So thats - airbag removed (battery disconnected etc. of course. steering wheel off, clock spring assembly off (take care three delicate clips) then connector blocks off the back of the indicator stalk switch, screws off the lid (x4) and cable tie in to release each of two clips, lid off cleaning cloth in, then reverse whole procedure, finally remembering to use a code scanner to clear any airbag codes if you were unwise enough to power up while the airbag was not yet on (to test the switch for example)

So very happy to lose the damned clicking, everyone happy, champaign all round

Fix_Until_Broke said:

First - Thanks to the OP for creating this How To, it was very helpful
Couple things that I took pictures of to help out the next person who does this. It took me 20 minutes to get the cover off - hopefully these pictures will help.

After that it went pretty easy and straight forward. I also took a picture of the little white piece that fell out so you know how to put it back together again.

Here are the headlight contacts - the 3 long brass fingers

Here's where you clean them - looking down from the top in the blurry circle

Click to expand...

Those who want to clean the switch without removing it from the steering column may like my pics; using a cable tie to pop the latches on the switch cover

Switch fix is great, one additional suggestion

Thanks to Varkias and Tommytix for this great information! I was able to successfully fix my phantom clicking turn signal switch at no cost.

I removed the airbag, steering wheel, and switch assembly, so I could tinker with the switch inside the house where I can see everything better. All the advice and pictures were great, and I wouldn't have been able to get the switch apart without the tip about using the tie straps to free the snaps.

I did end up doing it twice, due to one mis-assembly issue that might help somebody else. The first time around as I was re-installing the battery ground I noticed a bit of a spark, and then realized that my high beams were on continuously, even with key off. Then I noticed that the flash to pass feature on the turn signal switch wouldn't work, although the low and high beam positions felt right. So I took it all apart again (in about 1/4 the time since now I knew how to get every electrical connection apart). Should have taken a picture, but realized that there is a little tang on the stalk (inboard side) that is supposed to nest in a slot between two white plastic surfaces. When I dropped my stalk on the pivot the first time I had it on top of one plastic piece instead of between them, so it jammed it into high beam position. Hopefully this garbled explanation will be more clear to somebody when they're looking at the actual parts!

Now I need to go look for how to donate to TDIclub.com, as this probably saved me about $200 in parts and labor!

I've been living with the clicking relay for a while now. 2 days ago the low beams (both right and left lights) quit working. I note in post #130 above the contacts for the hi/low beams are part of the mechanism. I hosed it down as best I could from the outside with contact cleaner but the low beams still don't work. I did notice the blinker relay didn't seem to be clicking as it has but it didn't do it all the time anyway and I just sprayed it.

Questions:
-Have these contacts given any problems to anyone? I would appreciate hearing your experience and fix.
-Is there another relay, ground, issue, etc. that I should check before pulling the steering apart to replace the unit? I'd just like to do it once and be sure I get the real problem the first time.

Some have suggested the Mk V multi-function switch is better shielded and fixes these problems. Can this unit be adapted to the mark IV? I suppose that would be difficult though.
Thanks!

trj said:

I've been living with the clicking relay for a while now. 2 days ago the low beams (both right and left lights) quit working. I note in post #130 above the contacts for the hi/low beams are part of the mechanism. I hosed it down as best I could from the outside with contact cleaner but the low beams still don't work. I did notice the blinker relay didn't seem to be clicking as it has but it didn't do it all the time anyway and I just sprayed it.

Click to expand...

I had a problem with the low-beams going out back in January 2012. Took it to a dealership -- one of the few times in recent years -- and it cost me $226 in parts and labor to replace the multi switch. It took less than an hour and I was surprised that they never bothered to disconnect the battery.

Anyway, turn signal clicking is an annoyance and might be fixed with cleaning or lubricating the mechanism. But if the low beams go out, I don't think you can avoid replacing the switch.

I pulled the switch and cleaned the contacts when my low beams started going out, but a year later it started acting up again. I gave in and ordered a new switch from idParts and installed it myself in less than an hour, the switch was ~$80 - no problems since then.

Thanks for the information from both of you. Guess I will be replacing the multi switch.

It looks like the speed control for the wipers is not working correctly either. The intermittent adjustment makes no difference in any of the 3 speed positions. If it works in the 3 constant speeds I wouldn't think it would be the shaft freezing problem in the linkage. I will be replacing that stalk too unless there is something else you think I need to check first?

I would like to get parts that avoid or have corrected the o.e. parts problems with the mark IV. Do you know if there are such parts? If so would you ID them so I can get them?

I read that there are no relay(s) for some of the things powered through the multi switch and that may be the reason the multi switches have problems (too high current over time). If you know that to be true could you let me know what has no relay? I tried to read the electrical schematics but couldn't seem to find relays which leads me to believe that may be the fix? Will adding relays be a problem with the computer?

Several questions but there may be merit to these ideas so if you wouldn't mind I and others might benefit from your knowledge.

Thanks!

When taking the stalk apart it's a good idea to check that circuit ribbon thingy that's connected to the cruise control buttons. It rubs against a plastic piece that secures it in place. This causes its surface to wear down over time, leaving the circuit exposed, which in turn gets worn down until it breaks.

Thanks Snakeye, I'll check it.
Bump on the other questions?

OK, I just installed a new multi function switch and the low beams still don't work. Any ideas?

EZ_Fix

Varkias said:

Random turn signal clicking after making turns or driving down the road. No lights flashing, just clicking.

Click to expand...

I had this problem two years ago. Here is what I did:

1) Purchased a can of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner.
2) Removed the key from the ignition (no power to the turn signal relay or vehicle to avoid shorting the circuit)
3) Placed turn signal lever in left turn position
4) Inserted the red plastic "straw" from QD Electronic cleaner in the gap created by having the turn signal in the left-turn position and sprayed
5) Move the turn signal to every position and spray in the gap
6) Rotate the turn signal to every position for about 30 seconds after all spraying is complete and then repeat once more for fun!
7) Let the car sit overnight

I took extra precaution (perhaps too much) to ensure there was no electronic power present while the QD cleaner was doing it's work. I think it may have dried in about an hour but I didn't want to risk it so I let the car sit overnight. This fix worked for me and the problem has not come back after two years!!!

When this problem can't be resolved by an electronic cleaner, I will be back on this thread and following the great instructions that Varkias posted!

I wound up replacing the turn signal (multi-function) switch with one from a mfgr called Airtex (part # 1S3759). When I received it, it had VW/Audi identification on it and the company said they just buy them from VW and repackage. I have heard the 2001-2002 models had a problem with a bad batch of these switches so maybe they have corrected the problem though no one I have talked to at several suppliers including VW dealers have been able to verify that. This new part does have a slightly different letter suffix at the end. Airtex told me they are now made in Hungary.
The headlight low beams were BOTH burned out at the same time. I couldn't believe they both would do that even after reading in this forum it has happened to several posters.
My biggest problem was getting the airbag to release. I finally had to cut holes in the foam rubber and go straight in with a screw driver to get the spring wires to release. I modified that area with some plastic snap caps to make it easier if I ever have to go in there again. There are several youtube videos showing how the springs work on the conical studs. They helped a lot. Thanks for the responses to my inquiries here. Not a bad job once you understand things.

I did this about a month ago, and it fixed the clicky-clicky problem. I also had trouble releasing the airbag from the steering wheel; I think the trick is to get a tool with just the right size -- long and thick enough, but not too long and thick. I also consulted YouTube and saw a couple of different tools, including a thin screwdriver that had been bent into an L shape, which looked easiest. You can get a pack of assorted screwdrivers from Harbor Freight (Item #68868, $8 on perpetual sale) that probably has one the size you need, or for the price, you could sacrifice one and bend it. I ended up using a small Craftsman center punch I had in my toolbox.

Another head-scratcher for me was how to undo the wires that attach the airbag to the steering wheel. Having never done it before, and being especially careful & nervous with them, I didn't know the trick: The connectors that attach to the airbag have yellow plastic pieces that lock the connectors on. Pop the yellow parts up (away from the airbag), and the connectors loosen and can be removed.

The zip-tie trick to unclip the switch housing is perfect. I would add--first clip about an inch off the end of the zip ties to get rid of the tapered end. This allows the zip tie thickness to go all the way into the groove and depress the snap tabs completely.

I had an extra switch I bought used from eBay, and I noticed that one of the copper contacts inside was worn much more than the other (on both my switch and the eBay one). So I took the relatively unworn contact from the eBay one and swapped it into my switch for the worn one. If I didn't have that option, I probably would have switched the two contacts.

Flaky Flasher, Additional Info

This article is great and once done, the clicking was fixed. The grease was like slimy dirt. Excellent job by the author and I am very grateful to him or her.

I'd like to mention something with which I had trouble; I am not sure if any others were as obtuse.

When removing the cover to the turn signal guts, there is a photo with 6 green arrows; 4 pointing to Torx screws, and 2 pointing to tabs. I had trouble getting the tabs to release. At first it was because I was incorrectly trying to release them from the front of the assembly, not the rear as instructed.

However, once I figured out my error I could not see which way the tabs were to be released. Here is what I did...

There is a rim that goes around the back of the entire assembly; this creates the space inside this outer 'casing' in which all the terminals sit. At each slot for these two tabs there is a 1/8" slot in the outer casing and this slot passes through the channel in which the tabs live all the way to the front of the assembly. This is where the author instructs us to slide in the thin bladed screwdriver to release the tabs. However, the slot was too narrow in both dimensions in order for me to get any type of screwdriver in there. Plus, I could not tell if I was supposed to pry the tabs away from the outer casing and toward the center, or the other way around.

Plan B:
I always borrow lots of wooden coffee stirrers at that famous coffee shop for mixing epoxy and other tasks. These stirrers are about 1/16" thick and over 1/8" wide. So I planed (yes, with a small block plane) the width down to 1/8" and was able to slide the stirrer all the way into the slot (going toward the front of the assembly). This released the tab AWAY from the outer casing and the cover came right off.

I have a couple of photos that I can edit with arrows if anyone is interested. That is, if there is anyone who is less intelligent like me.

Thanks again to the original author.
Regards,
Lawrie (they spelled my name wrong when they reset my user account)
ASE Master Registered Audi Tech
Registered VW Tech
Ex-Editor of Bentley Manuals
Ex-Consultant on Audi Helpline
Ex-Warranty Analyst for VW.
Disabled and retired, but having fun with my VW when I can.

Lawrie said:

I always borrow lots of wooden coffee stirrers at that famous coffee shop for mixing epoxy and other tasks. These stirrers are about 1/16" thick and over 1/8" wide. So I planed (yes, with a small block plane) the width down to 1/8" and was able to slide the stirrer all the way into the slot (going toward the front of the assembly). This released the tab AWAY from the outer casing and the cover came right off.

Click to expand...

Yes, this is another way to skin the cat. Essentially, this is the same as the zip-tie trick.

Attempt one failed badly. High beams permanently on and no way to turn off unless you disconnect the battery. I broke a tiny little piece on the signal canceling switch and I'm pretty damn sure I put the "other" white piece as I found it (took a picture before). The clicking sound still came on intermittently but not as bad as before. Could be a problem with the relay now as all connections and brass inside the switch has been cleaned and lubed with the proper sprays.

Wish me luck on the second try. Here we go !!

UPDATE: man is it ever easier to take apart everything the second time lol

So I should have taken the OP instruction on paying attention to those white pieces when opening up the mechanism. It's super easy to break the signal canceling plastic piece - there's a little white knob on it that broke off which was very important for that function - I'll have to live without it. And the other white piece (the larger one) controls the high beams which you should pay close attention to when taking apart.

Everything works great now! No more clicking sound! I did find an oem signal and wiper assembly on ebay for 42 bucks just in case I really messed things up. Not bad price.

Thanks to the OP for the post!!

Oh and one more tip from a newbie would be to test that everything works BEFORE putting it all back together. Would have saved me loads of time because of that dummy move.

Thanks to everyone who has posted useful info in this thread! I had this "clicking" problem and tried the simple fix of blasting Deoxit into the switch. Having pictures of the insides helped me know where to spray!

Seems to have fixed it (for a few days, so far) without the major disassembly project.

I recently repeated this process for a bad wiper fluid switch.

Again, clean and grease was all it took.

Crumby thing that happened though was somewhere along the line my battery completely died- permenently. Of course I thought it was a switch, so in the mean time I managed to wrestle a spare one out at the wreckers.

So if anyone needs a spare switch... (Or more specifically both switches, turning and wipers)

John Kuhn said:

I did end up doing it twice, due to one mis-assembly issue that might help somebody else. The first time around as I was re-installing the battery ground I noticed a bit of a spark, and then realized that my high beams were on continuously, even with key off. Then I noticed that the flash to pass feature on the turn signal switch wouldn't work, although the low and high beam positions felt right. So I took it all apart again (in about 1/4 the time since now I knew how to get every electrical connection apart). Should have taken a picture, but realized that there is a little tang on the stalk (inboard side) that is supposed to nest in a slot between two white plastic surfaces. When I dropped my stalk on the pivot the first time I had it on top of one plastic piece instead of between them, so it jammed it into high beam position. Hopefully this garbled explanation will be more clear to somebody when they're looking at the actual parts!

Click to expand...

Thanks to the OP and to you. I did the operation today and I hope it's fixed, I also had my high beams stuck on and it was this post that helped me troubleshoot it, thanks!

I hope is ok to bring this old thread back. I was wondering if you had to remove the airbag to apply WD40?

TornadoRed said:

I never responded in this thread, though I'm sure I did elsewhere.

Squirting some WD40 in the general direction of the turn signal mechanism apparently removed whatever was causing the constant clicking noises.

Eight months and about 35k miles later, the problem has not returned. Thank you, WD40.

Click to expand...