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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old February 4th, 2018, 06:16   #16
TDITim83
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I am needing to look into running a 2.5" pipe for exhaust.....first were do i get a 2.5" flange for coming off the turbo? Second, how do I get a Cat the will work for my car? Or should I gut the cat? I am wanting the car to stay quiet and still have plenty of air flow, I will get rid of stock silencer and exhaust. Would like to replace it with something that you can hear a small growl maybe. Though I do not want it loud and absolutely hate a droning noise
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Old February 4th, 2018, 07:07   #17
john.jackson9213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDITim83 View Post
I am needing to look into running a 2.5" pipe for exhaust.....first were do i get a 2.5" flange for coming off the turbo? Second, how do I get a Cat the will work for my car? Or should I gut the cat? I am wanting the car to stay quiet and still have plenty of air flow, I will get rid of stock silencer and exhaust. Would like to replace it with something that you can hear a small growl maybe. Though I do not want it loud and absolutely hate a droning noise
You are running the stock turbo at stock boost with stock factory tune???

Based on my 11 years playing with the B4V: A 2.5 inch down pipe will do nothing for you at all. The stock turbo does not need a 2.5 inch down pipe. Even with bigger nozzles and a tune up to 18-20 psi of boost. Been there, done that on the dyno.

The stock turbo simply is very small and can not flow enough air to get more than a 40 to 45% increase in power over stock.

Changing your complete exhaust to bigger pipes can/will introduce "unpleasant" sounds to your cabin. No fun to ride from L.A. to Las Vegas in a car with that system.
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Old February 5th, 2018, 15:06   #18
TDITim83
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First of all....Thanks for the very good info on exhaust pipe john. I will probably just gut my cat and run a good flowing muffler out the back.

Second....Abacus....thanks a bunch man, I got the new Tensioner in and its installed correctly. I have not clue why I did it that way, my manual says differently. Life Saver

Back to my issue at hand....
I unhooked my exhaust and I feel not difference in power. Note....when in neutral and I tap the accelerator the RPM jumps up faster than with exhaust attached. So I do feel I have restriction. Though getting up to speed is about the same.

I am gonna run VAGCOM soon, what specs or readings should I look for that could be an issue. Assuming I throw no codes. If i have done an EGR delete, and haven't adjusted anything in VAGCOM would that be a possible issue for power?

Please read what I've done to the car so far, and ask further questions on parts if need be. I really want this car running awesome. No problem with idle and timing. But after acceleration it just kinda goes slow up to speed. I know the difference, I've driven two stock B4V's in the past year
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Old February 6th, 2018, 08:27   #19
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Is there a way to tell if I'm getting enough fuel via VAG?
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Old February 8th, 2018, 08:07   #20
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Default Update on findings.....

After replacing my timing belt tensioner I have ran VAGCOM.....timing is to advanced to plot. So I will resolve that. I also adjusted my settings to from 250 to 375 on the air intake side for the EGR setting.
I am wondering whats going on with my injectors....any input...or could they be off because of the advanced

Injection Quantity 6.4 mg/str
Mod. Piston Displ. 1.620v
MAF (Specified) 375.7 mg/str (originally was 250 I just changed)
MAF (actual) 455.5 mg/str
Intake Air Temp 42.3 C
Inj qty 0.0 mg/str
Inj qty 28.4 mg/str
Inj qty 28.2 mg/str
Injection Quantity CC Active 0.0 mg/str
Barometric Pressure 1031.7 mbar
Manifold 1040.4 mbar

I also threw some codes:

2 faults found
00550 - Start of Injection Regulation
17-00 - Control Difference
01242 - Output Stages in Control Module
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

Last edited by TDITim83; February 8th, 2018 at 08:17.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 06:19   #21
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I think you might have better power if you adjusted the Injection Quantity to 3 or 4 Mg/str. 6 might be enough to make less power.
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Old February 9th, 2018, 13:37   #22
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you have some injector info there. although its been a few weeks since ive had the VCDS screen up. the one reading you give there, inj qty 0.0mg/str. and you have 3 other inj qty readings there. do you have an inj timing reading. although you set the mechanical timing, then the injection (electronic) timing and the timing (and injection)becomes a standard, changing due to advancement across rpms. inj qty X.xmg/str as well changes with rpm, also load, depending on ecm and sensor readings.
did you clear the codes?
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Old February 11th, 2018, 14:39   #23
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Default Resistor installed

I installed the resistor.....my check engine line went off. Also No power change.
How do I change the settings for Fuel Injectors.....what controls that
Im hearing my lifters taping. So I'm wondering if I have bad lifter springs. Any input?????
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Old February 11th, 2018, 17:24   #24
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I heard when you clear codes form Auto Scan it doesn't actually clear them? Where do I go to clear the codes properly if this is the case?
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Old February 15th, 2018, 13:03   #25
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I have tried another BK ECU and no change, I even tried mine in the other car. My ECU is fine. I changed the Turbo Boost EGR Valve, still low power. Vacuum lines are good. It idles so nice, but makes a valve ticking noise. Also revs like normal until you take off in gear and is just low powered. I am wondering if I have Valve Lash or worn guides.....anyone have any input
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