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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old December 15th, 2015, 17:25   #1
Redman84
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Default Clean or replace turbo?

I'm near 265k on original turbo. Throwing the stupid intermittent over boost code. Have all new vac lines and the VNT actuator tested ok w mity vac. Still need to check the n75 w VCDS but if that tests out well should I even bother with cleaning it or just get a new one?
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Old December 15th, 2015, 17:28   #2
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If your oil consumption is normal/not increasing and after a inspection of the turbo shaft play determines its present state, then decide.
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Old December 15th, 2015, 18:02   #3
Redman84
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Is there enough room to check shaft play w it still in the car?
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Old December 15th, 2015, 19:00   #4
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Default Shaft play

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redman84 View Post
Is there enough room to check shaft play w it still in the car?
Yep! Just remove the hose on the suction side of the Turbo and stick your finger in there and feel the end of the shaft .... jiggle it up and down. There will be some up and down (side-ways) movement. There should be virtually zero in and out movement. You will find some oil inside there too. What counts is how much oil you have to add during the 10,000 mile change interval.

The clamp on the hose is in a tight place, but it can be removed!

The Turbo on my 2000 Jetta has 354k miles on it and has never been off or cleaned..... works great! I have to add about 1/2 quart of oil by the end of the oil change interval.
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Old December 15th, 2015, 19:01   #5
Jake_S
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Yup. Remove the outlet pipe, and check for excessive axial (in and out) movement of the turbine.

Jake
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Old December 15th, 2015, 19:44   #6
[486]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake_S View Post
Yup. Remove the outlet pipe, and check for excessive axial (in and out) movement of the turbine.

Jake
in not out
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Old December 15th, 2015, 20:08   #7
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If you can push the shaft in, you should be able to pull it out. Thus, you are looking for the amount of "in and out" movement. ...... which should be virtually zero!
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Old December 15th, 2015, 20:11   #8
[486]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
If you can push the shaft in, you should be able to pull it out. Thus, you are looking for the amount of "in and out" movement. ...... which should be virtually zero!
if you can get your fingers on the compressor wheel through the compressor outlet you've got better fingers than me (winky emoticon)
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Old December 16th, 2015, 04:26   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [486] View Post
if you can get your fingers on the compressor wheel through the compressor outlet you've got better fingers than me (winky emoticon)

Fingers on the "compressor wheel" isn't necessary, and, no doubt impossible as per the circumstances being discussed in this Thread.

Through the Compressor "inlet," push on the end of the shaft, then pull out on it, either with your fingers or needle nose pliers.








Back to the OPs original question, the issue may be something besides a "dirty" Turbo as you've already suggested. I'd eliminate those things before attempting to "clean" the Turbo.

There are two options to clean the Turbo, do the chemical clean (huge long Thread on the pros and cons) or remove the Turbo and disassemble on a work bench. Complete disassembly is not recommended (taking out the Turbine Shaft), as you run the risk of getting the assembly out of balance.

Check out my photo gallery for Turbo pics relating to cleaning.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showgallery.php?cat=5302
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Last edited by AndyBees; December 16th, 2015 at 04:30.
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Old December 16th, 2015, 06:35   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
There are two options to clean the Turbo, do the chemical clean (huge long Thread on the pros and cons) or remove the Turbo and disassemble on a work bench.
I just cleaned a VNT-15 turbo on the bench last week...and I was surprised at how well it worked. I have to admit...I didn't read the huge long thread, so I don't know what the "cons" are, and maybe I don't want to know.

Although the VNT actuator was rusted out, it still held vacuum, but the VNT lever stopped at about 2/3 travel.

I put the nozzle and straw from a can of Brake cleaner on a can of oven cleaner so that I could reach as far as possible in behind the exhaust turbine wheel. I had a couple cleaning sessions over a couple evenings, and would work the VNT lever with my fingers while the turbo soaked. I even filled the CHRA oil cavity with fresh engine oil so that nothing would get in there while cleaning.

The VNT now has full travel and the operation is smooth.

I would definitely clean and inspect an old turbo before buying a new one...they are expensive after all.
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Old December 16th, 2015, 10:23   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBees View Post
Fingers on the "compressor wheel" isn't necessary, and, no doubt impossible as per the circumstances being discussed in this Thread.
well that's what I get for trying to be jokingly pedantic
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Old December 16th, 2015, 10:26   #12
BobnOH
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For the cost of a proper replacement, definitely consider taking it to the bench and cleaning it.
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Old December 16th, 2015, 11:47   #13
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Lots of good replies. Thank you all. My oil consumption has gotten up to +- 1 qt over 10k miles with no appreciable leaks(small occasional drip originating at valve cover). I'll test the N75 hopefully this evening and also try and check the shaft play too.
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Old December 16th, 2015, 12:02   #14
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cleaning the turbo isnt too bad, i would try that. I was able to get mine spotless inside with oven cleaner. They work effortlessly when properly cleaned.
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Old December 16th, 2015, 14:33   #15
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I used 'dry moly' (molybdenum disulphide) spray on mine when I put it back together. ZEP makes it, it's like graphite lube but fancy and space age. There was some rust in there, so I figured either that or rustoleum barbecue grill paint.
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