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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old March 13th, 2018, 01:36   #31
bwk9087
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Originally Posted by evguy1 View Post
I also knocked the big check ball out of the tank inlet. It may not have been one of my problems but anything that will restrict the diesel and cause it to foam is bad.
I think in the end the 1 1/2" fill and new vent were the solution.
I like your vent fitting, what is it?
The vent fitting is a standard tipover valve, with vent line, bought at most any speed shop, I got it at speedway motors. I will keep the big check ball for now, as I will be offroading on occasion, also, and might need some of these safeties.
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Old March 13th, 2018, 07:39   #32
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I like your gauges. Care to share a little more info on how you built them?
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Old March 13th, 2018, 08:15   #33
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I like your gauges. Care to share a little more info on how you built them?
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...+guages&page=3
this is where I started my guage journey, right from this forum. Each guage is run by a single arduino nano. You don't have to do it this way, I like it for simplicity, if 1 component fails, the others keep working, like a standard guage. The displays I use are a 1.8" tft screen that interfaces to the arduinos. I have had this done for some time, so I don't remember everything I did off the top of my head, except for the egt uses a max6675 interface board, and a k type thermocouple that is 5" long, long enough to get into main exhaust path from egr port. The oil temp is using a standard GM coolant sensor 12146312,and the boost is using mpx5700gp sensor, the oil pressure I am using a generic pressure sensor off ebay, 0-500 psi, I think. I will be using the same gm sensor to control the output to the coolant glow plugs also.
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Old March 13th, 2018, 15:37   #34
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Originally Posted by bwk9087 View Post
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...+guages&page=3
this is where I started my guage journey, right from this forum. Each guage is run by a single arduino nano. You don't have to do it this way, I like it for simplicity, if 1 component fails, the others keep working, like a standard guage. The displays I use are a 1.8" tft screen that interfaces to the arduinos. I have had this done for some time, so I don't remember everything I did off the top of my head, except for the egt uses a max6675 interface board, and a k type thermocouple that is 5" long, long enough to get into main exhaust path from egr port. The oil temp is using a standard GM coolant sensor 12146312,and the boost is using mpx5700gp sensor, the oil pressure I am using a generic pressure sensor off ebay, 0-500 psi, I think. I will be using the same gm sensor to control the output to the coolant glow plugs also.
Awesome! I'll do some reading up on it!
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Old March 14th, 2018, 02:27   #35
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I found the late model JKU airbox has a better outlet angle for the turbo inlet and they are cheap when guys change to CAI. The stock airbox should flow lots for the TDI.

Were you able to keep all of your factory gauges to work? I would be interested in how you did that? I been looking at a JKU or a FJ40 conversion. I prefer the JKU for moving the family around.

Also if you turned up the BEW to 200hp range, how well it move with 35's or 37's with proper gearing.

Chris
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Old March 15th, 2018, 11:08   #36
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I don't want to hijack this cool build thread.
Mine is here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...&highlight=JKU
On all the swaps I do I leave the original ECU in place to run the dash and other systems like ABS. So many systems are all interconnected on modern vehicles. If you remove one part of the system then often the other parts stop working as well.
I installed the oil pressure and water temp senders from the Jeep into the TDI and it all works. The tach also requires a cam sensor input but most often you can just take the crank sensor output, run it through a Digital Dakota box and its close enough to fire up the tach. It does not use the cam sensor to run the tach so it does not have to be accurate. I think it just uses the cam signal to confirm the engine is running??
I don't have the tach working on my JKU swap yet as I have not had the Jeep back long enough from my kid to install the DD box. ;>)
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Old March 15th, 2018, 11:44   #37
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I don't want to hijack this cool build thread.
Mine is here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...&highlight=JKU
On all the swaps I do I leave the original ECU in place to run the dash and other systems like ABS. So many systems are all interconnected on modern vehicles. If you remove one part of the system then often the other parts stop working as well.
I installed the oil pressure and water temp senders from the Jeep into the TDI and it all works. The tach also requires a cam sensor input but most often you can just take the crank sensor output, run it through a Digital Dakota box and its close enough to fire up the tach. It does not use the cam sensor to run the tach so it does not have to be accurate. I think it just uses the cam signal to confirm the engine is running??
I don't have the tach working on my JKU swap yet as I have not had the Jeep back long enough from my kid to install the DD box. ;>)
This is the way I am going also, so I should be able to report on this soon. I mounted the actual cam sensor, it was easy enough. We will see. I don't know if I consider it hijacking, when I am gaining knowledge from you, that helps me out!
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Old March 16th, 2018, 08:44   #38
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I'm interested if that does it. I'm just assuming that's the only thing stopping my tach from working at this point.
I did something similar on a Ranger swap when I needed a crank signal to shift the automatic. I did not have the original crank sprocket and made one out of a chain sprocket with the correct number of teeth and just milled the tops of the teeth flat and removed two teeth for the TDC signal.
Its bolted to the PS pump pulley.
Yes there is actually quite a bit of room between the crank pulley and the sensor. ;>)
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Old March 16th, 2018, 08:48   #39
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Originally Posted by evguy1 View Post
I'm interested if that does it. I'm just assuming that's the only thing stopping my tach from working at this point.
I did something similar on a Ranger swap when I needed a crank signal to shift the automatic. I did not have the original crank sprocket and made one out of a chain sprocket with the correct number of teeth and just milled the tops of the teeth flat and removed two teeth for the TDC signal.
Its bolted to the PS pump pulley.
Yes there is actually quite a bit of room between the crank pulley and the sensor. ;>)

Nice, that is what I have for a backup, a tone ring from a camaro, I think it is, that I removed two teeth, and welded up two teeth to replicate the jeep ring.
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Old March 16th, 2018, 14:05   #40
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Question: Why run a hall sensor like this for the tachometer signal? On the BEW/BHW T94/28 is the tachometer signal output.
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Old March 26th, 2018, 05:41   #41
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got some things done, going good so far.
got coolant lines run, added coolant glow plugs inline with a coolant sensor for Arduino control. Factory jeep coolant sensor is on other hose.

downpipe and exhaust is all done.

map sensor bung welded on intercooler pipe.

Intercooler mounted, it is a 20 x 7 x 2.5 universal.
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Old March 26th, 2018, 05:42   #42
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front end back on

intake and intercooler piping done. Had to go back to fishbowl, since jeep overflow was in way of intercooler piping. N75 is on, and all vacuum plumbed.

was able to keep factory air filter setup, tight fit under it for the one intercooler pipe, but was able to maintain the 2.5" piping.

that is is for now.
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Old March 26th, 2018, 17:21   #43
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Lookin good. Where exactly is that map sensor in the intercooler piping? Interested to see how you like the GTB1756VK.
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Old March 27th, 2018, 07:34   #44
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Lookin good. Where exactly is that map sensor in the intercooler piping? Interested to see how you like the GTB1756VK.
on the right (driver side) coming out of the intercooler. I don't have a pic of that yet.
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Old March 27th, 2018, 16:07   #45
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Default 2 small coolant hoses on back of head

I thought I had the coolant hoses figured out, but, I missed one, I took the small one to the top of the fishbowl, where does the one just below it go? the small one seems to be 1/4, and the other 5/16. I was going by this schematic.
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