5x8 Enclosed Cargo Trailer: A Hazard?

Hello,

This folder seemed an appropriate place to discuss this. Mods are welcome to move it if necessary.

Anyway, I've towed my 800-lb 4x6 open trailer on and off for years. I'm considering a 5x8 enclosed cargo trailer. My goal is to have an enclosed place for hauling my tools and wheels to autocross events, a dry shady place to hang out at the events if/when it's blazing hot or raining, and perhaps even a place to do some light camping (that's a stretch). I'm quite certain I would keep total weight down to under 1300-lbs. The trailer would be mostly empty with the exception of wheel storage and a seating area which can turn into a bed. I have my eyes on aluminum trailers, the lightest 5x8 weighing in a under 600-lbs. I'd probably keep my total load to under 1000-lbs with a trailer that light.

I'm only mildly concerned about the weight of the trailer. I'd likely install brakes even if I never exceed 1000-lbs. Lots of folks think I'll damage the tranny with excessive towing. I'm not sure. But my biggest concern is with the sail area presented by an enclosed trailer. My main question: Do any of you who tow 5x8s or larger experience erradic handling in crosswinds or when passed by semi-trucks? Is there something I need to consider I may have overlooked when stepping up to a larger trailer?

Thanks!

Scott

PS: Here's a photo of a trailer I'm considering...

Could you rent one for a weekend just to see what it's like? On the trailer you have now do you use 5th gear or 4th on the highway?

You've got to be kidding? 4th or 5th. LOL!!!!

Buy it, you'll have NO problems. Especially with the mods you have. I pull an enclosed aero motorcycle trailer that many saw the ohio fest at 80-85mph all day long. Never an issue.

check out the trailer in my sig (i built the enclosure, frame is steel, homebuilt trailer i bought). even with the .658 gear i had zero problems in 5th towing it almost 1800 miles from mn to ma. my total weight (car + trailer) weighed at a truck stop was ~5500lbs. didn't have any issues, aside from a wheel falling off, lol.. but that was the fault of loose lug nuts. although i also am tuned and have a 17/22 turbo... not sure how it would do stock, but i see you have rc6, shouldn't be a problem

Jason,

How heavy is/was your load? And renting a test trailer is exactly what I have in mind. I rent a room in DC and commute home to SE VA on the weekends. I'm moving back to SE VA full time this JUN. I have a 7-ft fouton and a few hundred pounds of clothes, electronics, and stuff to move. I don't NEED the enclosed trailer for this move and hadn't planned on using one. But I WILL rent a U-Haul 5x8 to move my stuff and see what I think. I'll stick to the highways instead of the interstate, though.

I think I was still stock the last time I pulled a U-Haul 5x8. The car handled okay, but would not exceed 65-mph. And braking was a bit numb. I practice safe following distances. But I'll still be inclined to add electric brakes for additional safety.

Scott

PS: I use 4th on climbs with the trailer below 70-mph. My clutch is starting to slip below 2300-rpm.

Would a V-front be better?????

Mine is Aero so that helps. Flat fronts just limit the speed a lot.

Trailer is 750, Bike is 625, gear 100-200.

mctdi said:

Would a V-front be better?????

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Probably not. Airflow is highly disturbed. A tailcone would be more effective.

I would be worried about the strain put on the clutch if you have a manual

You won't hurt a thing. You should see the double axle trailer I have pulled with the Jetta...Loaded!

You shouldn't have any issues at all. I like your thinking on the trailer brakes, the VW brakes are intended only for the car and are marginal with a trailer in tow.

Load the trailer properly and observe the tongue weight, I always lean towards the heavy side to insure maximum stability and weight on the cars rear wheels.

I have had no issues hauling 2500# from Chicago to Oregon at 75mph speeds.

For extended towing make sure your timing is advanced to reduce the EGT's as much as possible.

DB

jyd83 said:

I would be worried about the strain put on the clutch if you have a manual

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LMAO! so, then, is an 01M the solution here? DSG?

Drivbiwire said:

For extended towing make sure your timing is advanced to reduce the EGT's as much as possible.

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that is excellent advice!

Last night I watched a man drive an RV towing a Ford Explorer towing a tandem trailer of personal watercraft. Seeing that set-up swing at 60mph down the center of six lanes in downtown Atlanta gets me thinking about tongue weight.

Does maximizing tongue weight minimize that sort of pendulum effect or only change the natural frequency? Thoughts?

Tounge weight is a function of trailer length, tow vehicle capacity, hitch design and combined trailer/load weight. Too much weight on the tounge can excede hitch capacity, rear axle loading and unload the front wheels of the tow vehicle enough to cause steering and braking problems. Optimal load distrubution is somewhere around 10-15% of the gross load on the hitch, depending on the vehicle towing guide and hitch type. Adjust your loading so that you don't bottom out the rear suspension too easily, or see obvious camber changes in the front wheels.

I tow both tounge pull and gooseneck trailers with my truck. I shoot for 15% on the tounge and 15-20% on the goose. This also makes the assumption that I'm towing mainly on hard surfaced roads. When I go out into loose dirt or mud, then I change the distrubution a bit.

Above all, one you get it loaded, take a trip around the block and verify that you have good control and you are comfortable with the basic handling. If something doesn't feel or act right, it's a lot easier to correct it at home than out on the road somewhere. After you've been on the road for a little bit....a few miles or so, take the time to stop and check that your cargo is still secure. Unless your load is chocked, blocked, screwed and bolted to the trailer, it will shift some amount. Better to find that movement early and adjust your tie-downs than having it come loose later. Even though I've hauled stuff on trailers for more than 35 years, I had part of a load come loose this last weekend due to a big bump poping a couple of straps when the trailer flexed. Better to have overkill on tie-downs rather than loosing part of a load.

Craig C.

I was thinking of getting a 5x8 trailer too but I was hesitating since it's so big I would have the tendency to over fill it and go way over on the limitation of my golf. But I did allot of researching on the prices and different models and I found one that was very well built and at a dissent price but what was the most iterating is that it came with the brakes. I came to the conclusion after months of searching that it is very rare for a trailer to come stock from the factory with brake (for a dissent price) any way this was the trailer I was looking at at good price 3800$CND with brakes and a one piece roof

I'm thinking of getting a trailer hitch with the intent of a small utility trailer and possible a jet ski. It sounds like no problem to tow a utility trailer but how about getting in and out of a boat ramp? I worrie about not getting enough traction and spinning. Also what type of trailer hitch to get for my 2000 Golf? I wouldn't want one that couldn't handle enough tongue weight.

Louis,

The trailer in your photo is a 6x13. There does not appear to be any specs listed. I'd be concerned with dry weight alone. I wouldn't be surprised if that trailer weighs over 1000-lbs empty. I'm not saying you shouldn't get it.... just that you need to find empty weight since added weight may accumulate quickly.

BTW, I found out the trailer in the photo I posted is a 5x10 which weighs about 560-lbs empty! And the rear door can be had with a LIFT door... instant SHADE. HERE'S A LINK. The biggest reason overloading is not a concern for me is because I hope to use this as a mobile lounge of sorts and perhaps for occasional light camping. I'd also use it for the occasional move of items too large to fit in the car. But, for the most part, my cargo will consist mostly of AIR. The interior is stripped; so that'll be the first place I add weight. Foam insulation weight next to nothing. I'll panel the inside with 1/8" veneer or something light.

Thanks for the input, everyone!

Scott

I towed a 5x8 trailer with my Golf from Ithica, NY to the Gulf Coast of Ms. highway the whole way, going about 70mph the whole way. no sweat. the braking is a bit unnerving. just do it.

How is your hitch mounted in the A3?I'm not sure,but don't the A4 platforms have a little more beef for the hitch mounting?I would be concerned w/ the A3 style towing an enclosed trailer on an interstate w/tractor trailers more than likely zipping by you.

Stealth TDI said:

Louis,

The trailer in your photo is a 6x13. There does not appear to be any specs listed. I'd be concerned with dry weight alone. I wouldn't be surprised if that trailer weighs over 1000-lbs empty. I'm not saying you shouldn't get it.... just that you need to find empty weight since added weight may accumulate quickly.

BTW, I found out the trailer in the photo I posted is a 5x10 which weighs about 560-lbs empty! And the rear door can be had with a LIFT door... instant SHADE. HERE'S A LINK. The biggest reason overloading is not a concern for me is because I hope to use this as a mobile lounge of sorts and perhaps for occasional light camping. I'd also use it for the occasional move of items too large to fit in the car. But, for the most part, my cargo will consist mostly of AIR. The interior is stripped; so that'll be the first place I add weight. Foam insulation weight next to nothing. I'll panel the inside with 1/8" veneer or something light.

Thanks for the input, everyone!

Scott

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Yeah I was looking at the 5x8 size one I just couldn't find the image online so I put the bigger version. And about the weight of the trailer the dealer never called me back so i have no clue how much it was I gust found it really nice it all ready had the brakes. I finally decided to rent a truck to move instead of buying a trailer so I guess it a good thing he never called me back.

IF I missed it Make sure you use the right gages and your car should be ready to go. I used a 86 Jetta GLI gasser stock with only the higher 5th gear in it to pull a small Chevy full of house hold gear from Wheaton IL. to Hagerstown MD with out a problem and I had to go through the Mountains of PA. Only problem was making sure I was not taking off on a hill , I had so much weight getting it moving was a problem which you will not have with the Diesel.

Hello,

tdidieselbobny said:

How is your hitch mounted in the A3?I'm not sure,but don't the A4 platforms have a little more beef for the hitch mounting?I would be concerned w/ the A3 style towing an enclosed trailer on an interstate w/tractor trailers more than likely zipping by you.

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My hitch is secured through the trunk by six bolts:



I've never had any troubles with this in over ten years. The pressure wave of a passing semi should be no more dangerous to an A3's hitch than that of an A4. But the prospect of the pressure wave fishtailing the trailer is not fun to consider. I'm hoping the addition of brakes, overkill on a lightweight trailer, will add a margin of safety.

Scott

I love the look of your hitch so much cleaner then on the mk4's. I seen on your website the parking jobs you do with you trailer such a good idea only need 1 1/2 spots. You going to be abel to do it with the closed trailer?

I am more concerned w/ the fishtailing of the trailer,not the hitch.Isn't the part where you have hitch mounted just fiberglass?? If it's held for 10 years,must be some strong fiberglass.....I was thinking of adding a hitch to my A3,but going through trunk didn't appear to be too sturdy.I think some people have a metal plate for some more strength.

I'm pretty certain the entire A3 body is steel. The underbody is undercoated from the factory. The interior of the trunk is sound-deadened.

I pull a Scamp camper with my Jetta (224xxx miles) Scamp calls it 13ft but that includes the tounge the body actually is about 6.5ft wide about 10ft long and about 7.5ft high and weighs around 1500lbs on the scale. I did put a new axle with brakes on it before i towed it.My engine is stone stock with the exception of a larger oil cooler that i put on at DBWs reccomendation.I do have EGT,oil temp and pressure guages & manifold pressure too.It tows very well but the wind drag limits it to about 60-65mph in 5th,iguess it would go faster in 4th but have never tried it.The surprising thing to me is that with about 175lbs on the tounge weight it is not bothered by passing semis or side winds at all.I live in Florida and so far have not towed it out of state so cant say how well it would do in hilly terrain.On one of the camper forums i saw a picture of a TDI Beetle towing the same model Scamp parked for a photo by a sign that said contential divide and gave the elevation so i guess if he can we can! Don

Before leaning toward the sub-600 pound all alluminum trailers, I was looking at trailers similar to Carry-On. Sticking only with 5x8s, here are some differences between the all-aluminum trailer I posted above and a "regular" trailer I kind of like:

......................Worthington ................... Homesteader
..................... All Aluminum ..................... Challenger
....................................................Steel Frame, Aluminum
.....................................................Walls, Galvalume Roof

Floor ................ 5/8" Ply ......................... 3/4" Ply
Wheels ............ 13" Steel ....................... 15" Steel
Walls/Ceiling ........ None .......................... 3/8" Ply
Fenders ............. Plastic ........................ Aluminum
Weight .............~500-lbs .......................~840-lbs
Base Price .......... $3300 ........................... $1800

The Worthington will likely gain around 100-150 lbs just by adding 1/8" plywood walls and ceiling. So I have to wonder if losing 200 lbs is worth the extra $1500. I'm leaning toward NOT, especially since some of you are towing more than I ever will. BTW, the Challenger may actually lose weight by replacing the 3/8" walls with 1/8"; and swapping in 13" alloy wheels.

Here's a photo of the Homesteader Challenger with optional side door, front diamond plating, and flow-through vents:



Scott

Louis,

Louis_TDI said:

I love the look of your hitch so much cleaner then on the mk4's. I seen on your website the parking jobs you do with you trailer such a good idea only need 1 1/2 spots. You going to be abel to do it with the closed trailer?

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I can do it so long as the tongue is long enough. It'll just take a bit of practice since I won't be able to see the far side of the trailer. The "V" shaped tongue will make it impossible to achieve a 90-degree angle between the car and trailer. BTW, most of my park jobs only use one space since I try to target end spots with buffers. Check out this one:



That's a 4x6. Doing this with a 5x8 will be tougher. But I'll try it in an empty lot someday.

Scott

Stealth TDI said:

The Worthington will likely gain around 100-150 lbs just by adding 1/8" plywood walls and ceiling. So I have to wonder if losing 200 lbs is worth the extra $1500. I'm leaning toward NOT, especially since some of you are towing more than I ever will. BTW, the Challenger may actually lose weight by replacing the 3/8" walls with 1/8"; and swapping in 13" alloy wheels.


Scott

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I know you would only be towing your tiers and little things but if ever you need to town some thing a bit more odd that can't be secured in the trailer like a load of fire wood or some thing like that the thicker floor and side walls are nice. Only thing I find you was to watch out for with the trailers like the Worthington is looking at it before you buy I have seen some trailers one the same type with the side plywood so warped it was coming out by a good 6".

The WHOLE back end is steel.

There are different hitches for the A3 B4. The one I had had an additional steel bar inside that ran the length of the trunk to distribute the bolt load.

I've considered having a plate made to disperse some of the weight between the two connecting points.