2006 Jetta - Stutter/shudder on Acceleration

Afternoon folks!

I've got a problem that I would like some help diagnosis.

My '06 Jetta (218k miles) is experiencing a stutter/shudder issue when I accelerate.

I've changed the air and fuel filters and the MAF, but to no avail. I took it to a local mechanic who said that it was likely the intake is clogged.

I had it in with him to replace the blend door servo motor, and it was getting hot for the summer. In the process, he asked if I wanted to change the cabin filter while he was in the general area. I agreed to that because it had been a while. When he pulled out the filter it was BLACK with soot.

He said the EGR cooler was 'cracked' and was exhausting soot into the fresh air intake.

He said the repair on the EGR cooler, parts included would be $1200. Cleaning the intake he said would be about $600. I am not much of a mechanic, I can do simple stuff (MAF).

I would prefer not to drop a TON of money on it, but I'm curious if you guys think that either of these could resolve my problem? If so I don't mind spending the coin to get it fixed. I just don't want to be out $1800 and still have the issue.

Thanks!
Eric

1. Get a new mechanic. At the price quoted this guy must think highly of himself.

2. EGR does, indeed, inject exhaust gasses into the intake. It's supposed to. What it's not supposed to do is leak exhaust into the cabin intake.

3. EGRs do tend to develop a leak around the flap bushing. Lots of fixes out there and even a replacement doesn't cost all that much.

4. BRM intakes should not require cleaning as long as you've only used ULSD fuel.

Shuddering? Engine or DMF and clutch? And a badly leaking EGR cooler will also be a prime suspect.

nord said:

1. Get a new mechanic. At the price quoted this guy must think highly of himself.

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Yeah I contacted A5INKY and he said he could help me out when he get's back from vacation.

I keep the AC on recirculate to keep the soot out of the cabin. I'm guessing it doesn't hurt to keep driving it, correct? I will get it fixed, just want to make sure I can drive it until then.

2. EGR does, indeed, inject exhaust gasses into the intake. It's supposed to. What it's not supposed to do is leak exhaust into the cabin intake.

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I think he was saying that it was getting soot through the fresh air intake from the leak inside the engine compartment.

3. EGRs do tend to develop a leak around the flap bushing. Lots of fixes out there and even a replacement doesn't cost all that much.

4. BRM intakes should not require cleaning as long as you've only used ULSD fuel.

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Probably 99% of the time it is ULSD. I occassionally, like once every 2-3 months may fill up w/ bio. Unfortunately(fortunately) for me there aren't many bio places near me, and the Kroger where we do our grocery shopping has diesel, and w/ the Kroger card savings on fuel, it's hard to pass up.

Shuddering? Engine or DMF and clutch? And a badly leaking EGR cooler will also be a prime suspect.

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It feels like the engine. In fact, my first guess was fuel filter because I've felt that before and changing the filter fixed it. Not this time though. And the engine does it when I'm sitting in park or neutral, just revving the engine.

I have read in either here or on myturobodiesel that someon had good luck with repairing the crAcked egr coole pipe with a patch consisting of aluminum foil and gasket cement used for attaching rope gasket to the doors of wood stoves. Low cost fix,even if temporary...

Ahh... And that someone would be me! Now at 40k and still holding strong.

As to continuing to drive a vehicle with that bad a leak? Probably not a good plan for a lot of reasons both mechanical and healthwise.

Now I could be way wrong, and if your EGR cooler is in fact broken then that would explain a lot, but it pains me to see people replace parts unnecessarily when it sounds like another VNT actuator adjustment candidate.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=357644
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=280804

I know that's going to seem like a lot of reading but believe me, I've seen people throw thousands of dollars at their BRM motors (MAF, EGR, N75, ASV and ultimately a turbo, which will fix the problem since it comes with a new actuator and said adjustment screw) when literally 1 turn of the set screw is all it took to cure ALL of the symptoms.

So the coles notes are:
There is an adjustment screw that hold the VNT vanes in a slightly open position when the turbo is not under any boost, after years of constant hitting up against the stop it eventually dents in a bit and allows the vanes to close more than they should. So basically turning the screw in (righty tighy; clockwise) compensates for the wear on the stop and brings it back to where it should be.
adjustment procedure below:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=280804&page=5

325isbimmer said:

Now I could be way wrong, and if your EGR cooler is in fact broken then that would explain a lot, but it pains me to see people replace parts unnecessarily when it sounds like another VNT actuator adjustment candidate.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=357644
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=280804

I know that's going to seem like a lot of reading but believe me, I've seen people throw thousands of dollars at their BRM motors (MAF, EGR, N75, ASV and ultimately a turbo, which will fix the problem since it comes with a new actuator and said adjustment screw) when literally 1 turn of the set screw is all it took to cure ALL of the symptoms.

So the coles notes are:
There is an adjustment screw that hold the VNT vanes in a slightly open position when the turbo is not under any boost, after years of constant hitting up against the stop it eventually dents in a bit and allows the vanes to close more than they should. So basically turning the screw in (righty tighy; clockwise) compensates for the wear on the stop and brings it back to where it should be.
adjustment procedure below:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=280804&page=5

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Yeah I've read both of those threads already. And I'm not ruling anything out, but have a black cabin filter does lend some merit to exhaust escaping somewhere.

I'm half way expecting it to be multiple issues at the same time. The car has been great for a long time. I figure it is about due for me to have to fix/adjust a few things.

I've been in limp mode twice now. Both times happened under hard acceleration, not WOT.

And I'm sure you guys know this already, but it was new me and want to share it for anyone that hasn't experienced limp mode. Cruise control will not engage while in limp mode.

Black cabin air filters are pretty normal. I wouldn't place too much weight on that.

I will second a black filter as normal -- especially if been in there a long time.
If your EGR cooler is leaking, the nearby firewall will be sooty. I'd look there first.

Bugzilla said:

Yeah I've read both of those threads already. And I'm not ruling anything out, but have a black cabin filter does lend some merit to exhaust escaping somewhere.
I'm half way expecting it to be multiple issues at the same time. The car has been great for a long time. I figure it is about due for me to have to fix/adjust a few things.
I've been in limp mode twice now. Both times happened under hard acceleration, not WOT.
And I'm sure you guys know this already, but it was new me and want to share it for anyone that hasn't experienced limp mode. Cruise control will not engage while in limp mode.

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Ya I know what you mean, my car also had multiple little issues that I let go for a while and then they started to cause some driveability symptoms that led others to believe it was major stuff like EGR and Turbos (ended up being cam wear, timing issue and actuator set screw)

I also second the cabin filter question. I know there are a couple of different cabin filters and one is a "charcoal activated" cabin filter which brand new is black in colour.

I've also experienced this overboost symptom, although not under a stock tune, and quickly realized my cruise control would not engage. I learned to master the clutch in, turn ignition off (careful because your steering wheel will lock) and then restart, clutch out and limp mode will reset. Until the next overboost condition that is. I found that even though mine was mainly due to a stage 2 tune that I would overboost mainly when under full load (not WOT) ie. going uphill with a loaded car and then if i quickly got off the gas then I assume the boost sensor would see a spike as the engine was not requesting the fuel (or air) to produce power. I later verified this with VCDS logging.

Hope you figure out your issues soon.

cheers mate.

MyAvocation said:

I will second a black filter as normal -- especially if been in there a long time.
If your EGR cooler is leaking, the nearby firewall will be sooty. I'd look there first.

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Oh it had been in there a WHILE. In fact probably close to 50k miles.

Check your owners manual, but I believe the change interval is 40K. I tend to change mine well beyond that.

My wife's 06 jetta suffered from the same symptoms and it ended up being the fuel filter. We've had the car for 2 years now and should have changed it when I bought it. It was black in color compared to the new beige one. Wife said it drove like a new car.