TDI AHU to 93 Eurovan

weekend progress

I've sorted out all the coolant plumbing now. I didn't however tie in the coolant circulator from the 2.5 setup. I can still tie it in later, but I haven't figured out the electrics of it yet, so I'm trying to keep it simple for the moment. Feel free to chime in on whether it with will be detrimental to leave out. I'd like to swap out a poly hose splicer I ended up using for a metal/brass one though. I'm finding that I'm not very good at stopping to take too many pictures now that I'm as far as I am into this.

One thing that I didn't notice from other build threads I've read is integrating the AC compressor into the existing system. The EV AC compressor doesn't mount properly on the bracker (could be modified), but then doesn't align properly as well to the ribbed belt. I thought about trying to change the clutch pulleys until someone advised me to just enlarge the AHU AC compressor to fit the EV AC piping. I didn't take measurements but it was about 2mm additional that I had to open the holes. You just need to remove the end cap on the compressor and drill/grind it out.

the rear of the two unmodified compressors.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59Vo][/URL]

Didn't get a shot of it done, but here is the AHU compressor with the EV AC hoses now plugged into it.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/VnLdox][/URL]

Finished up the engine side of the fuel delivery. After all that time keeping the original short supply lines on the engine, I finally removed them for some shorter hoses to mate up to where I located the fuel filter. It physically fits well in the location, and was able to put together a mount from the EV fuel filter mount to get it to stay in place. I'm using the Jetta fuel lines from the donor car and they are really long. Enough that it can reach to this spot.

Here's the where I put the fuel filter sans the remaining fuel lines.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59LL][/URL]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59Lq][/URL]

I went ahead and pulled my wiring through the firewall to get that part going. I've got a few things to tidy up in the engine bay still, but was eager to see what I had after my initial wire work I had done a few months back. I'm definitely not missing any connectors, but I see that there are a few connectors that I probably was afraid to snip out initially. I'll snip those back after the engine is up and running properly.

plenty of room to get the cabling through. I'll end up pulling it back out later to get it properly covered though.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59Ey][/URL]

Just a shot of the cable through to the other side.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk57Mq][/URL]

Here's what I've left myself to sort out before I start the engine:
-exhaust downpipe through where I'll remove or hollow out the cat
-upper coolant hose
-intercooler piping and location (i've got a good idea. Hope it pans out)
-mount EGR and N75 somewhere
-coolant/oil/brake fluid/transmission fluid

What I have to sort out prior to driving. Not including all reassembly of front end or dash.
-Accelerator pedal
-clutch and brake switches
-Align axle to transmission extension

Semi stalled

I put diesel oil into the engine and and attempted to turn over. Nothing. Not getting 12v to the single lead from the wiring harness that plugs onto the started solenoid. Looking at my wiring again, I thought I'd better go back through it, as I left a lot of extra wires in there. So out with the wiring harness to clean it up a bit and figure out why I wasn't getting power there. I didn't really want to pull all the wrap off of the wires the first time. Time to do a cleaner job.

Back to the table
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59FL][/URL]

So far I've initially found that my starter solenoid lead was going through a couple plugs and a relay that were still in the harness. It does eventually end at pin 1 on the F plug that goes into the back of the fuse panel. Which is right except that the opens created by the plugs will not get my starter to turn over. I've pulled the started lead out of the first plug it hits and set it into pin 1 of the F plug now. I won't be able to test it out till I've gotten the rest of the spaghetti cleaned up, but I can clearly see I should have gone through the wiring and traced everything out end to end. Seems like you may end up doing it in the end anyway. So at present I will be setting my cables up to match to the pin out references below.


The wiring guide that I'm referencing:
Interior
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=61313
engine bay
http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=63539

I've sorted out sorted out my two major wiring issues. Starter spins now, but then didn't get an engine start. Also wasn't able to vac fuel into the IP. I was finding that I wasn't getting 12v to Z1 which is is generally where all the 96-99.5 jettas need to have 12v. All I could find were diagrams for 96-97 where the 103 relay was used. I've got the 180 relay. After reading a number of threads about the 180 relay, i see that I needed the bridge in relay position 12. That must affect the fuel shutoff relay in some way also, because as soon as I made a jumper between the the two large spade inserts in position 12, I could vac through the ip and the engine fired right up. Milestone! No pics this time, but I've started to put a lot of the front end back together.

What I have to sort out prior to driving. Not including all reassembly of front end or dash.
-Accelerator pedal
-clutch and brake switches
-Align axle to transmission extension
-coolant/brake fluid/transmission fluid
-exhaust downpipe through where I'll remove or hollow out the cat
-intercooler piping and location. (need to figure out a good spot)

Some progress. I've resolved aligning my axles to the transmission by just bolting up the one side, then turning the engine by hand to counter rotate the other side to line up with the axle. Worked out good. Now I'll be able to just drive back off the ramps when I'm done with the exhaust.

Speaking of the exhaust. Here is what I've mocked up with pvc to get from the turbo exhaust outlet to the next flange prior to the cat, which i've cleaned out.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/WpDQFV][/URL]

I bought this stainless flange on ebay. Sanded the pipe a little and it snugs on real tight to get it where it should be for the finished product.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59t1][/URL]

My plan A was going to a muffler shop to see if they could put my mockup together. Shouldn't have bothered, they wouldn't touch it since the van never came with the diesel originally. Plan B seems to be fine. I ordered some stainless pipe from Summit Racing. This 2.25" J and 45 elbow ran $100 total shipped. Arrived in two days on their free shipping. I'm going to have some left over pieces, but it was more cost efficient to buy it like this. I think I should only need about 3 cuts. we'll see depending on if the 90 and 45 bends on the J pipe are close enough to what I've put together. There will be some running around to get this together. Friend about 30 mins away to tack it together, run it back and check if its all good, run over to another place to have another person do the final stainless welds.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/WpDQBg][/URL]

I've settled on my pedal setup and just need to get the pedal pieces welded together. I've moved the factory style bracket back a little to get more usability with the stock adjustment on the donor pedal head that connects to the pot.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/VnLdkM][/URL]

Gas pedal just hits the carpet at full extension on the pot. I think I'll add some sort of bumper on the carpet under the pedal later. Hose clamps temporarily holding the pedal parts together before getting them welded up.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59q5][/URL]

tried to keep as much metal as i could for mating the two pedal pieces. I did straiten the EV pedal to vertical before putting these together. In its stock shape, it is angled slightly to the right. I could raise the donor part of the pedal a little, but it seems to be good as is as well.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59pd][/URL]

What I have to sort out prior to driving. Not including all reassembly of front end or dash.
-clutch and brake switches
-coolant/brake fluid/transmission fluid
-exhaust downpipe
-intercooler piping and location. (need to figure out a good spot)

I've cut my downpipe to match. I've found someone to do the 3 stainless welds. I cut the 180 with a 1mm cutting disc on an angle grinder. Easy, but not a totally clean cut. Cut the straight parts of the pipe with a 3mm cutting disc on a chop saw. I thought it might flow lava. What a fat cut, but a whole lot cleaner if you don't mind losing a bit of material.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59jU][/URL]

What I have to sort out prior to driving. Not including all reassembly of the dash. ( front end is back on)
-clutch and brake switches ~eventually
-coolant/brake fluid/transmission fluid
-exhaust downpipe to be welded
-intercooler piping and location. (need to figure out a good spot)

I had gotten my downpipe tacked together by an old friend and it fitted up perfectly except for the bottom 90. It actually needed to be about 80 degrees. I removed the tacks and shaved off the 10 degrees. Here, he is finishing up the welds. Not the most pro, but you can't be free, and it's good and strong.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59hQ][/URL]

I've set up the intercooler above the engine. I just cut up the Jetta plastic intercooler pipes to make the right bends and coupled them together. This should get me running while I figure out other solutions.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk595q][/URL]


I've fitted up the lower engine cover. I made some spacers to account for the lower hanging AC and power steering pump. It's a 2 1/2" gap that needs to be made up. I made some spacers and used some longer bolts to thread through the pan, through the spacers and up into the frame rail. I put a nut in the middle to keep from losing the bolts if they work themselves out. I'm still contemplating if I can cut and adjust the AC side of the cover to just be lower in order to be able to bolt up the pan like normal.

I put the dash back on. That really does take some time getting all the bits and pieces back in there. Before I put the dash on, I tied a wire into the line that provides the glow plug light signal. I haven't worked a light into it yet, but I did test to see if it would light, and it did. Pin 8 on U1 if I remember right. My lead is long enough to easily access. As far as wiring goes, I still have a glow plug circuit fault code as well. I haven't been trying to hard on that at the moment, since the van has still been starting so easily, but I would like to resolve before I take a trip in any near freezing temps. To go with the other wiring items, I've still not tied in my cruise control, brake signal, and clutch signal wires.


What I have to sort out prior to driving.
-clutch and brake switches ~eventually
-coolant/brake fluid/transmission fluid
-exhaust downpipe to be welded (tomorrow!)

Bolted up my downpipe, double checked my axle bolts, and made sure all the fluids were at acceptable levels. I went for a ride and it was a bit of a mixed experience. Dogging a lot at first until good and hot. After that it a lot more responsive, but still a little hesitant. Idles at ~800 rpm if I recall correctly. My cooling fans didn't turn on either, so something else to figure out what I might have missed electrically. I don't have vagcom, so I'm poking around to find someone to help me out on that to check whats going on in the IP. I do like hearing the turbo wind up though.

To still be sorted
-clutch and brake switches ~eventually
-cooling fans
-glow plug circuit
-little bit of leaking coolant

Congrats on your first drive!

Does the dogginess return if you unplug the coolant temp sensor while hot?

Thanks. I still haven't tried driving it with the temp sensor out after its warm. It seems like its running rich. Do I need to get into the ECU to change that? Once its good and hot, its seems to be running better. It starts right up though.

I must have just had a bubble in the cooling system, because after the engine got hot, the temp needle fell back down after it got up almost to the 3/4 mark.

Last thing is that I probably should have banged the firewall back a little as the clearance is about a millimeter. The inside of the cab is a little noisy. It may be the turbo rumbling against the firewall a little.

To still be sorted
-clutch and brake switches ~eventually
-rich running condition
-turbo contact with firewall?
-cooling fans
-glow plug circuit
-little bit of leaking coolant

Read through some posts about startup smoke and think I've come to a newbie revalation that I need to sort out the glow plug circuit before I try to make any adjustments. When the engine gets up to temperature, it seems to run well. It's just on startup that i'm getting lots of white smoke. I've read through few threads with inoperable glow plugs causing that extra startup fuel to not be burnt/atomized. Once that is sorted, it may be a different story, but I'll at least have ruled that out.

To still be sorted
-glow plug circuit fault
->overfueling - lots of white smoke at startup and little after hot
-turbo contact with firewall?
-little bit of leaking coolant
-cooling fans
-clutch and brake switches ~eventually

The white smoke at start up is normal for a cold outside temp and no cat. I highly recommend getting the vag com cable. The program is free. You'll need it to set the timing . This could explain some ow power.
Following your build as I am seriously looking into building one myself.
Thanks,
Deo

There is someone on the forum who is going to help me out with Vag com. Not sure how soon we'll be able to get together though. Hard to find time to work on this thing right now too with it colder and getting dark so early. Oh to have a garage.

I was able to take a little time and take a look at my glow plug circuit. Tested all the glow plugs and they checked out fine per the glow plugs 101 page on the forum. Tested the glow plug wiring and found that I was only getting just under 11v. It's 48 degrees right now though and I didn't pull the temp sensor on that check. I did find though that the two leads that supply the two separate pairs of glow plugs, was crimped all together.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk57xN][/URL]

I cut that crimp out and put together the leads separately. Checked the wires again and still getting just under 11v from each lead. Checked the battery and getting 12.5v with engine off. I ran my OBD tester again and still getting the p0380 code. I need to find out where that voltage is coming from and why its not 12v.

Other than that, the van started up just fine and idles smoothly. Again, when I get on the gas, it sputters after 2000rpm and I get billows of white smoke. At least until the engine is hot. Really need to get the ECU on Vag Com.

To still be sorted
-glow plug circuit fault
-overfueling - lots of white smoke at startup and little after hot
-turbo contact with firewall?
-little bit of leaking coolant
-cooling fans (maybe haven't gotten it hot enough yet)
-clutch and brake switches ~eventually

The joined glow plug leads is common. It prevents a mil or check engine light if 2 glow plugs are different resistance. I wire mine the same way. Make sure the connection is proper and heat Shriners or glue and heated etc.

I've crimped them with wire contacting wire, with heatshrink around them. I still get the same signal across all the leads. Makes me think they did that to try and get rid of the glow plug circuit fault, but it didn't change anything. I am still getting only 10.9v on each lead, with the battery being at 12.5v. I'm still not sure where that comes from. Relay 180?

As a whole, everything seems to be working fine less the overfueling, of which I still need to get my pump timing looked at and adjusted through Vag com. I'm set up to meet someone tomorrow to do that. I've got to drive about 20 miles though for the meetup so I thought I'd do another test drive. Starts up just fine. Smokes pretty well until the engine is good and hot. Lacking power a bit too. Ran it on the freeway and nothing fell off. That's my main concern, that I haven't fastened something well enough. Drove around for about 20 minutes and everything seems fine. A lot of rattling inside the van. Almost seems quieter outside the van. I need to sound deaden a few things for sure. Got back home with engine good and hot and don't see any white smoke on idle, but do see some light smoke when giving it a little gas.

I did figure out my coolant leak though. Luckily it was just an error of mine instead of a failed part. I had forgotten to move the pinch hose clamps into the right position for the piping that heads back to the rear heater. I kept seeing water dripping down from mostly the back side of the transmission and was worried that some of the hard piping may have cracked or something. Shouldn't leak anymore now. The cooling fans still haven't come on yet. Although I don't know if the engine will get hot enough anyway. The temp was sitting at the last mark (3/4 mark?) while it was hot and not wavering too much.

Just a short note on my cost expectation. When is it not more that you expect. I'm still doing pretty well. So far my costs vs selling of excess parts puts me at $2671. I'm hoping to knock that down at least another $500 with the excess parts I have left to sell. I bought an already pulled engine with most of the necessary parts. I could see how you could do pretty well if you bought a whole donor car. Unfortunately, I just don't have the space to accommodate a parts car. I was looking at around $2000, but I'll easily accept under $3000.

To still be sorted
-glow plug circuit fault
-overfueling - lots of white smoke at startup and little after hot
-turbo contact with firewall?
-cooling fans (maybe haven't gotten it hot enough yet)
-clutch and brake switches ~eventually

A small followup on my attempt at adjustment with VCDS. I didn't study up on how to use the software and the fellow who was kind enough to meet up with me hadn't used it much for making adjustments. He'll help me out again if I know what adjustments to make. I did see on the timing graph that I was jogging between slightly advanced and the next advanced indicator. We tried to retard it a little to see if it would change anything and didn't seem to see any effect. Need to read more posts about the whole thing. I was able to make it 20 miles down to the freeway without much issue other than lack of power on acceleration. With my stock gearbox, those first 4 gears seem short. 5th gear is fine for now though.

Took care of a couple items on my list.

I adjusted the front engine mounts. There is a lot of room for adjustment on the passenger side mount. The bracket is more of a slot than just a large hole, so I was able to pull the engine forward on that side a good 5mm. The drivers side is more of just an oversized hole and could pull that side forward only a few mm. That pulled the turbo just enough off the firewall to bring down the noise inside. Now to quiet down my noisy door panels.

I've tied in the clutch and brake wires. Need to confirm on Vagcom though whether its done right. I went for a drive and there isn't a change as far as i can tell. I did read through a number of threads and see the info now on the Ross tech site to adjust the IQ. It's likely just me, but I had a difficult time finding it.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html

I need to add an item to the list now, although its working as is. The high pressure power steering line is a bit short for the reach to the AHU power steering pump. I works, but there is a lot of stress on where the tubing goes into the metal banjo fitting that connects to the pump. I'm trying out an extension that I'm putting together with a short 10an hydrolic hose and a few fittings. The power steering pump end will be just a 16mm to 10an adapter to connect to the hose. The existing hose banjo will couple with a new 16mm banjo using a dual banjo bolt. The problem is finding a 16mm x 1.5 cap to seal off the end of the dual banjo. I've ordered a tap, and my old (in age) friend is going to help me with tapping (something) into a cap to seal it off.

I tested the wiring for the cooling fans at the thermostatic switch on the radiator. If I bridge the power to each of the two connections, the fan work. So either my temp switch is either not working or I'm just not achieving the engine temps that the 5cyl would get to, to kick the fans on. I do have the jetta temp switch. I still need to check and see if they have the same dimensions, but it wouldn't hurt to switch them when I dump my distilled water i've been using for they cooling system while I work out the bugs.

To still be sorted
-glow plug circuit fault
-overfueling - lots of white smoke at startup and little after hot
-power steering hose extension
-cooling fans (maybe haven't gotten it hot enough yet)

After reading your thread earlier I went ahead and bought some material to use as sound-proofing while I had the dash out. I tried three different materials with differing success. First is a product called Quick Roof available at Home Depot— it turns out it's all white and fairly heavy, but not the foil-backed stuff I was looking for. Then I got the foil stuff by the same name off Amazon and a small roll of Dynamat to compare. The foil-backed Quick Roof was very heavy where the Dynamat was very thin (I could easily tear it by hand). The White Quick Roof seemed very sticky, the foil-backed Quick Roof not terribly so (I wouldn't use it alone on doors), and the Dynamat tape pretty much like any foil-backed tape. So I used a few layers of each, especially covering the easily-accessible passenger's side firewall and footwell.

We'll see how it affects things, but I have reasonably high hopes at this point. It was very cheap and almost certainly won't hurt anything.

You did say the dash removal was the most comfortable part of the swap for you!

I'll just be doing the doors once I pick up some sound deadening material. Maybe later pulling the seats to do the foot wells. I'll give the quick roof a try.

Success! I'm up and driving normally now. I started checking to see if I had a leak in the turbo piping. Pulled off ducting next to the EGR and saw there was a lot of black soot. EGR stuck open? Made a block off plate and installed in between the last flange before the EGR. Started the van up and had no heavy white smoke and can drive the van right away. Lots of power right away. Now I can work on the little things.

To still be sorted
-glow plug circuit fault
-power steering hose extension
-cooling fans (new temp sensor on radiator?)
-after run circulation pump

Awesome! How's the drivability compared to the five-cylinder?

I just got my power-steering line extended yesterday. They charged $65 but it looks like a good job. If they put a swivel joint on it you can tuck it inward (toward the driver's side) and not have the line hang down too far. Photos at the bottom of this page: http://andrewclink.com/projects/thebus/engine-bay-hookups

Did you leave the power steering pressure switch disconnected? I'm guessing it's for the gasser computer but the TDI doesn't need it?

Definitely some more low end power. The gearing isn't real great till 4th and my taller 5th also. I did figure out that I had just set up the vacuum lines incorrectly to the EGR. I ended up buying some block off plates and pulling out the EGR system for the time being though.

$65 is a great price I think for the power steering line to be extended. It's costing me $80 about to piece an extension together with a dual banjo at the end of the stock banjo. Yours is much much better. I did leave the power steering pressure switch not connected. I haven't really looked yet at what the purpose was for.

Josh_WA said:

To still be sorted
-glow plug circuit fault
-cooling fans (new temp sensor on radiator?)
-after run circulation pump

Click to expand...

I have a 1Z converted T4 (eurovan?)

whats the gp light issue?

on mine the engine runs cooler than the previous 1900cc diesel so the rad fans dont seem necessary, also a 'hotter' thermostat than fitted to the car engine was needed as the heater was not hot I used the van (96'??) thermostat with the 1Z engine (I also have a B4 Passat tdi dash cluster so MFA working & the oil-temp can show upto 96' when driving, this matches the temp gauge reading in the cluster)
as to the 'after-run' coolant pump, it is plumbed-in but not connected at the fusebox, iirc it was fed from the 'second' coolant temp sensor on the engine as it's thermo-switch & the tdi has not got this fitted
sorta summint like that anyway
Rich.

Thanks for the info Rich. I've got my after run pump plumbed in as well, but just don't have a thermo switch plumbed in to activate it.

I'm still getting a GP fault code, but I've checked and checked and seem to be getting good working conditions on the circuit. Was below 30 degrees and was able to start the van turned over about 5 times. But it started.

As for cooling. It's going to be cold enough out that I'm going to put those off till warmer weather. I'm happy with the way the van is running. Just have got to do some work on quieting the inside. Added some tasks now that I'm not concerned about drivability.

Had a success today in getting my fuel type changed to diesel. This will likely just apply to WA residents. I just had to bring in my title and ask to have the fuel type changed. Cost $10. My license tabs were due also, so that is the total seen. You could probably just bring in your registration to do it also since they do not issue you a new title with that change. So the PWR is listed as D now instead of G.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk599U][/URL]

To still be sorted
- turbo air intake contact with the firewall causing extra interior vibrations
-sound deadening doors/footwells
-glow plug circuit fault
-cooling fans (new temp sensor on radiator?)
-after run circulation pump

Check the glowplugs, I've heard a few times of a dead plug causing a fault-code due to different voltage / resistance 'felt' by ecu......

I have no idea if this is true but the way electronics have taken over the engine control I would not be surprised

Rich.

You're using a Jetta (AHU) harness, right? My brother had that same fault on his car, but alas, he sold it before we could figure it out.

Where did you measure 11v? Do you have a wiring diagram? If this is right at the glow plug I suppose it could be voltage drop over the harness, which the ECU may interpret as out-of-bounds.

I suspect component differences within the "relay". It's actually a controller with a PCB inside in addition to the actual relay mechanism.

Hey, if all else fails you could swap a few wires and plug in a relay 12 from a Passat!

It's been a while since your last post. How is everything going?

I've sorted out a few issues and have been driving full stock power for a month or so.

Ironically, while I messing around with the vacuum hoses, i noticed i had a couple connected incorrectly, which leads me to believe that was the reason for the problems i had initially related to the EGR. I ended up removing the EGR system all together. I may put it back later to see if it was working properly after I've gotten a good amount of miles in.

I'm still yet to get an initial fuel mileage result. On the next fill up, I'll have that though.

-sound deadening doors/footwells
I did the doors. Doors are great now, but now the rest of the van needs sound deadening love. Still real rumbly inside. I should have just kept my stock transmission mount. The new one I bought had a firmer rubber isolater, which may not be absorbing vibes as well. Can't find the old one now though. Probably foolishly threw it away.

-glow plug circuit fault
still there

-cooling fans (new temp sensor on radiator?)
replaced the sensor, but no change. The engine just doesn't get hot enough.

-after run circulation pump
cracked and leaked, so took it out. engine hasn't had issues with getting over hot.

Josh_WA said:

I should have just kept my stock transmission mount. The new one I bought had a firmer rubber isolater, which may not be absorbing vibes as well.

Click to expand...

Yep nothing beats the stock tranny mount,a friend put an empi mount on his Baja bug and quickly replaced it with a stock one.

Finished sound deadening the rear wheel wells. Helps a lot. Also, loosened the front engine and transmission mount maybe just 1/8. Drove around the block, then tightened back up. They were in a different spot, so I know some stress was relieved. The stick shift is not visibly shaking as much at least. Next would be to add the flex piece to my custom down pipe. I should have done that from the start. Every little bit should help.