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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old August 27th, 2014, 10:43   #241
Southside tdi
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I recently changed my fuel filter, and the IP on my 1998 jetta TDI started to leak like a stuck pig, I used the link above as a guide to replace the top cover seal and the mid section seals. I got the socket from metal nerd, and the kit for the whole IP on amazon
Bosch 2467010003 kit was about $18.00
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Old August 27th, 2014, 12:13   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moblemaster View Post
CORRECTION
I am in Montgomery,AL and need the pump rebuilt. leaking at the rotor head where the 4 flanged fuel lines come in at.
Anyone or anyplace that can do this in the Montgomery, Birmingham, Atlanta area???
Highly recommend Hutchinson Volkswagen in Birmingham. 205-322-6644. They recently sealed my leaking IP and also performed the Timing Belt kit maintenance.
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Old September 4th, 2014, 13:36   #243
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Default 95 B4V GLS with 1997 TDI transplant -> injeciton pump leak

Just ordered the seal kit and special tool. I have read up on this repair about marking the cover and then using vag-com to ensure it all goes back together properly. Any other comments.

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Old September 18th, 2014, 09:06   #244
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Well crap. I took the pump apart and put new top and bottom seals on. Marked the covers so that I could at least try to get them back to the right spot. It turns over and sputters, like its trying to start, but won't run.
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95 TDI Passat VW Wagon
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Old September 18th, 2014, 11:02   #245
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Try measuring iq while cranking the engine. Adjust the iq per the hammer mod instructions.

Tony
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Old November 17th, 2014, 09:11   #246
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPk94mQyack

Worked for me. running 75%WVO/25% ULSD. leaked. 75% bio-diesel stopped the leak
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Old November 28th, 2014, 08:51   #247
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Can we get a sticky for people who do IP seals and trusted shops that do rebuilds?
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Old May 19th, 2015, 14:39   #248
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Default I may give this rebuild service a try

My IP is leaking from the top end somewhere, per Tomas Sport Tuning in Berkeley, so just replacing the bottom seal isn't an option. I'll try the "Healing with Biodiesel" as described in the YouTube video posted by BioDiesel' above, as recently I've been running straight ULSD instead of getting a biodiesel mix.

If that doesn't work, the local shop has had enough bad experiences with independent rebuilds that they now only buy rebuilt IPs from the dealer. But I'm unwilling to spend that amount of money when there are experienced mechanics out there. I've contacted "dieseldrive" (who posted the below on this thread) on eBay and we'll see what the turnaround time is.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldrive View Post
Click http://www.ebay.com/itm/251430794858...84.m1555.l2649 for top quality reseal service for your TDI injjection pump by a true professional. Full disclosure - I am the the person who is offering the service, and have been a factory trained Diesel Fuel Injection technician since 1982, but the reason I am posting this info here is due to reading all of the stories of pumps being resealed and then having Q/A codes and perfromance problems. The service offered here is to replace all of the seals in your pump except for the black box seals on the side of the Q/A, and those rarely leak), including the drive shaft seal, which includes removing and reinstalling the drive hub (on ALH pumps) in the exactly correct position (which is insures static timing is back to original specifications). You will NOT have to perform any Q/A corrections with the VAGCOM. This can only be done by installing the Q/A housing back in the exact same position as it was before it was removed to replace the seal beneath it; I use a jig and depth micrometer that enables me to install the housing within .0005" inches of original (half a thousandth of an inch) which will result in proper performance without having to "fudge" your ECU into thinking the Q/A is back to spec (which can't always be done). Contrary to popular belief, the Q/A housing position is part of the pumps calibration by Bosch when it was built new, and once that setting is lost, it is very difficult to get it back to original with having a Bosch Diesel shop recailbrate the pump. The service has been offered on Ebay since 2007 with hundreds of satisfied customers (100% satisfaction). Check it out, and drop me a note if you have questions.
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Last edited by Thorne; May 19th, 2015 at 15:43.
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Old August 30th, 2015, 03:06   #249
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I never thought that I would be back on this thread, but my newly acquired (second) green B4 started dripping diesel at the head pump seal. I tackled this job in 2012 for my daily driver B4 in a previous post here. I prepped myself by reviewing the seven YouTube videos that Robby Plenge and Jim Royston thankfully put together.

I got in the garage about 6 AM and had my tools put away about 2 PM, but I did take pictures, notes and had a meal. I also used VCDS for setting the Injection Quantity:


and used the timing graph to advance the timing as it was very retarded before starting the reseal:



I did not use the seal provided in the Bosch Seal Kit, but again tried to use the Vaseline coated AS568-229 3.53 mm fat O-ring, but it just refused to seat in the pump body. I wound up using the smaller AS568-142, which is only 2.36 mm thick.

Here is pump head out with the broken, pick pried leaking O-ring:



I also wanted to show you a sketch showing the front of injection pump head and the various bolts and brackets:




Here it is in PDF if you want a copy:


I did have one challenge that I could not overcome, and really don't know what to do about. The bolt (my arbitrary #14 in the sketch) that goes through the bottom bracket on the pump head and connects though to the engine attached bracket could not be reattached. The cone tapered nut is supposed to mate into the engine bracket but I couldn't get this happen. Here is the nut/bolt:



I tried everything I could think of to get that nut to stay put while starting the bolt but I could not get the nut to stay put. So I have the two front bolts and the one top rear bracket bolt holding my diesel injection pump in position. What do you think? With regards to Meatloaf, is 3 out of 4 not bad??? Jeff
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Old August 30th, 2015, 04:50   #250
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I've run across a few 1Z/AHU's with that bolt missing and it had been missing awhile. That being said, I would definitely reattach it since without it the pump is only secured in one plane. Use a magnet on a flexible arm to put it in position and then you can hold it with one finger while threading in the bolt. It's not nearly as bad as replacing the T-bolt on the timing cover.

Run a tap & die over it to clean up the threads and give it another go. It sounds like it's just binding from time and corrosion/debris. Or you can just get another one, they're around $7 at your local dealer. For the price, I'd just go new. Come to think of it, I have no spares left so I should get some coming.
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Last edited by Abacus; August 30th, 2015 at 04:53.
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Old August 30th, 2015, 07:41   #251
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Thanks again, Abacus for your insight and advice. I will give it another go and I will definitely order new. I guess that I have become too much of a mechanic working on these TDI's that to let it go without that support bolt would bother me. Also, I hate being stranded.

I did remember your recent and excellent posting about the T-bolt on the lower timing cover. I first used a couple zip ties with copper wire and electrical tape to thread the cone nut in from the back but it would not seat. I also tried heat shrink on the cone as well but couldn't get a good fit. I am frustrated, but I won't give up. Thank you.
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Old February 13th, 2016, 23:04   #252
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I just replaced the top seal and the seal below the QA housing. This thread is awesome!

Pretty simple job. I'd say the hardest part was tapping the adjuster housing with the bolts just snug to get the inj. qty back to where it was before. Its tricky as the value changes as you loosen and tighten the bolts. I was able to get it within about .3 of where it was before (4.5). Figured that was close enough.

Don't know if it entirely fixed my leaks, I'll check again once the engine is cold and after cleaning the entire pump up.
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Old March 1st, 2016, 13:23   #253
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Just my $.02 on the seal change:

I didn't have the proper barring tool for the job, so I got my pump on cam by rolling the car backwards in 5th gear. Also, my pump seems much different from the one in the Diesel Geek videos - once I was ready to pull my head seal out all the internals seemed quite loose, and rattled a bit whenever I put any pressure on the head. I was concerned about the washer falling out which was mentioned, but never had any trouble.

In case you haven't watched the vids, just go ahead and buy a T30 Craftsman bit and appropriate ratchet. I didn't, and had to scramble for one in the middle of the job.

Also, I'd recommend replacing the three copper O-rings at the return line banjo bolt if you have them in your kit. Just takes (two, preferably) 17mm wrenches.

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Old September 3rd, 2016, 12:10   #254
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I read all the threads and if I understood, changing the top cover seal need no hammer mode,
no VAG-COM... just replace the seal, fasten the cover back, crank the engine and you are good to go, right?
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Old September 5th, 2016, 01:13   #255
Andreas1989
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I replaced the upper and lower IQ Housing seal yesterday on my Golf MK3 1995 1Z(Germany Imported Engine).
All went smooth fired up almost instantly afterwards and the leak was fixed, engine runs smother as well no more heavy vibration and much more balanced power.
Putted the IQ at 3.4-3.2 was about 4-3.8 and it has much more power now and no black smoke still.
Will try to adjust it a touch lower on software adaption and see how it goes.

I used this kit for the job was cheap and genuine Bosch set:http://www.ebay.com/itm/262273105472...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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