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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old February 9th, 2012, 14:14   #226
Truckeratlarge
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I had been using LUCAS in my Passat since 2001. My fuel pump didn't start leaking until Thanksgiving Day 2010. I can't believe this additive is suspect if I got away with using it faithfully for 9 years.

How faithfully, you ask... Every month I would get home from driving my rig, and I would pump fuel into the gallon jugs I couldn't empty into my rig. With a nice swish around of the jug, I could be sure to get nearly all of the additive into my car, as I didn't want to waste it all over the fuel tank of the truck trying to tip the bottle upside down. With a million miles on the truck (still running strong after a rebuild at 385k due to a bad head), and a couple of hundred thousand on the car (before it's pump failed), I think we should consider other areas to blame for these seals failing.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 09:49   #227
nh nam vet
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First of all, I have to say THANK YOU to both club members and vendors runonbeer (Robby Plenge, www.runonbeer.com) and dieselgeek (Jim Royston, www.dieselgeek.com) for producing and making available on YouTube the seven videos on how to replace the 3 prone to leak seals on the Bosch diesel injection pump. I probably wouldn’t have attempted this seal replacement without these instructional videos.
With 262,000 miles on my 1997 Passat, my TDI developed a head pump seal leak, splattering destruction on two 3 way hoses and one water pump to radiator hose. Repeating their demonstration, I replaced both my quantity adjuster bottom seal and head pump seal with the seals provided in the Bosch Seal Kit P/N: 2 467 010 003-002. I’m thinking: Problem Solved.
Much to my surprise after a couple of weeks of routine driving, that familiar diesel smell returns along with, you guessed it, a head pump seal leak! I was careful when removing the original seal with a pick to not score or scratch the head seal groove; therefore, I was certain that I did not create a seal failure scenario. Now I am thinking that maybe, just maybe, I should have installed the runonbeer/dieselgeek recommended more impervious to failure Viton seal instead of the Bosch (green) seal. So I ordered a pair of the Viton head seals from dieselgeek and repeated the whole process a SECOND TIME. I’m thinking: I sure hope this works.
About two weeks of driving later…. don’t say it!!! Yes, it’s sad, but true: drip, drip, drip. OK, now I’m frustrated, but I will solve this problem. I grab my budget metal rule and cheapo, but accurate Brookstone plastic caliper. I had replaced the injection pump top cover a couple of years ago, when it started leaking and had bought the Bosch Seal kit then, so I had both an original Bosch O ring and the second Viton O ring seal to compare measurements. Both O rings measured almost exactly the same actual inside diameter (I.D.) of 60.0 mm. The green Bosch O ring thickness (actual cross section) looked like 2.5 mm thick. The Viton seal was skinnier; it looked like 2.3 mm thick. Unfortunately, I didn’t have access to a micrometer.
I surfed to www.marcorubber.com and found that O-Rings have a Standard AS568 for sizing. Using their Sizing Chart, I concluded that the AS568-142 is the correct/actual size O ring (59.99 mm I.D. with 2.36 mm thickness). I searched the sizing charts and found that the next thicker (fatter) O ring was the AS568-229: still 59.92 mm I.D. but now with a 3.53 mm thickness. I bought both the Buna and Viton types (AS568-229) and installed the Buna. I coated this O ring with Vaseline and slowly and evenly tightened the four head pump screws to return the pump head into the pump body without stripping threads.
So far, so good: no leaks. I did have to insert a new M6 x 45mm bolt with Permatex threadlocker Blue on it to replace the lower front pump head bolt that vibrated out. Also, I did have to replace the two copper washers on both sides of the top cover banjo fuel line fitting that were worn out and dripping diesel. One final note, after you have blindly aligned the quantity adjuster (peg into hole) onto the pump body, do not then attach your steel fuel injector lines. After you’ve primed the pump with the MityVac, throw a rag in front of the pump head and then crank the starter. If you did not correctly align the peg into the hole, you won’t get any diesel shooting out onto your rag. Ask me how I know. Then connect up your lines and continue with VAG-COM injector Quantity adjustment.
One more time, Thank You, Thank You: Robby and Jim. EDIT: NO LEAKS 278K!!
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My DD 1997 B4 sedan is @351k. The back-up plan 1997 B4 sedan is @234k. Her 2002 A4 TDI sedan is @334k.

Last edited by nh nam vet; August 4th, 2013 at 23:54. Reason: Clarification
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Old April 8th, 2013, 10:15   #228
cattlerepairman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nh nam vet View Post
First of all, I have to say THANK YOU to both club members and vendors runonbeer (Robby Plenge, www.runonbeer.com) and dieselgeek (Jim Royston, www.dieselgeek.com) for producing and making available on YouTube the seven videos on how to replace the 3 prone to leak seals on the Bosch diesel injection pump. I probably wouldnít have attempted this seal replacement without these instructional videos.
With 262,000 miles on my 1997 Passat, my TDI developed a head pump seal leak, splattering destruction on two 3 way hoses and one water pump to radiator hose. Repeating their demonstration, I replaced both my quantity adjuster bottom seal and head pump seal with the seals provided in the Bosch Seal Kit P/N: 2 467 010 003-002. Iím thinking: Problem Solved.
Much to my surprise after a couple of weeks of routine driving, that familiar diesel smell returns along with, you guessed it, a head pump seal leak! I was careful when removing the original seal with a pick to not score or scratch the head seal groove; therefore, I was certain that I did not create a seal failure scenario. Now I am thinking that maybe, just maybe, I should have installed the runonbeer/dieselgeek recommended more impervious to failure Viton seal instead of the Bosch (green) seal. So I ordered a pair of the Viton head seals from dieselgeek and repeated the whole process a SECOND TIME. Iím thinking: I sure hope this works.
About two weeks of driving laterÖ. donít say it!!! Yes, itís sad, but true: drip, drip, drip. OK, now Iím frustrated, but I will solve this problem. I grab my budget metal rule and cheapo, but accurate Brookstone plastic caliper. I had replaced the injection pump top cover a couple of years ago, when it started leaking and had bought the Bosch Seal kit then, so I had both an original Bosch O ring and the second Viton O ring seal to compare measurements. Both O rings measured almost exactly the same actual inside diameter (I.D.) of 60.0 mm. The green Bosch O ring thickness (actual cross section) looked like 2.5 mm thick. The Viton seal was skinnier; it looked like 2.3 mm thick. Unfortunately, I didnít have access to a micrometer.
I surfed to www.marcorubber.com and found that O-Rings have a Standard AS568 for sizing. Using their Sizing Chart, I concluded that the AS568-142 is the correct/actual size O ring (59.99 mm I.D. with 2.36 mm thickness). I searched the sizing charts and found that the next thicker (fatter) O ring was the AS568-229: still 59.92 mm I.D. but now with a 3.53 mm thickness. I bought both the Buna and Viton types and installed the Buna. I coated this O ring with Vaseline and slowly and evenly tightened the four head pump screws to return the pump head into the pump body without stripping threads.
So far, so good: no leaks. I did have to insert a new M6 x 45mm bolt with Permatex threadlocker Blue on it to replace the lower front pump head bolt that vibrated out. Also, I did have to replace the two copper washers on both sides of the top cover banjo fuel line fitting that were worn out and dripping diesel. One final note, after you have blindly aligned the quantity adjuster (peg into hole) onto the pump body, do not then attach your steel fuel injector lines. After youíve primed the pump with the MityVac, throw a rag in front of the pump head and then crank the starter. If you did not correctly align the peg into the hole, you wonít get any diesel shooting out onto your rag. Ask me how I know. Then connect up your lines and continue with VAG-COM injector Quantity adjustment.
One more time, Thank You, Thank You: Robby and Jim.
I wish I had seen this thread sooner - I just went through the equally frustrating experience. I ordered both thicknesses in Viton from the web site you mentioned. Many thanks for your research!
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Old January 12th, 2014, 09:57   #229
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Hello,

I did the whole thing as dieselgeek video shows. It was awesome to be able to place my lil iPod in top of the cam streaming the videos while I worked. How generous are these guys!

All in order, aligned the QA with jbweld and after priming everything, the at fires up and stalls after 2 seconds.

My plan was to do this job and after done take it to a shop near by to bring the QA to 3-5mg using the vag com and hammer mod. Cheap service.

But can't do if car isn't moving.

Advice please.





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Old January 12th, 2014, 20:41   #230
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I got it to move, QA needed like 3mm towards the driver side.

My two cents, get 2@ 45mm M6-1.00 Allen screws. Those shallow T30s suck!!




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Old January 14th, 2014, 18:36   #231
kmunigle
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Default leaky pump

Help I have the same leaky black box on the pump. Info please. No more Lucas for me either. Some one put a pic up on previous page.

Last edited by kmunigle; January 14th, 2014 at 18:50.
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Old January 15th, 2014, 22:59   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmunigle View Post
Help I have the same leaky black box on the pump. Info please. No more Lucas for me either. Some one put a pic up on previous page.
Hey, there is tons of info here, just take your time and search and research.

As stated before, changing those 3 seals is the way to go.

I used the JB weld technique to line up the quantity adjuster.

I recommend you to get 2 45mm m6-1.00 Allen screws to replace the shallow head T30s and one 55mm to use as a safety stop.

Also, remove the skid plate before hand in case you drop something and place an old bed sheet under the engine to find whatever you drop.

I have a set of extension magnets and pick up tools, they were crucial to get stuff I dropped.

I think you need:

- a 12point 22mm to turn crank the engine
- T30 quality socket, maybe an angled wrench. maybe T25 for a bracket screw.
- 17mm open wrench for the injector hard lines.
- metalnerd special triangular socket
- I used my braker bar
- set of screw drivers.
- I think I used 10,13mm for various bolts and nuts.
- 8mm and 24mm (maybe 23mm) open wrenches for shut off solenoid.
- set of dental pics.
-Duck tape to cover head while replacing its seal.
- a bit of grease or petroleum jelly.
- blue tape to protect the injectors and head lines.
- a couple of cans of brake fluid
- many, many rags.
- mity vac or similar vac pump to get the fuel inside the ip and prime the ip.
- beer and women to celebrate afterwards.


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Old January 28th, 2014, 11:05   #233
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Is there any kind of seal or fitting for the bit between the high pressure fuel line and the pump head? I see fuel coming out in that area. Either from that fitting (into the head), or coming past the head seal into the bolt hole. I have a seal kit coming for the head/body, but in event that is not the source of the leak, any advice?
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Old January 31st, 2014, 21:07   #234
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After a little work, it turned out that neither the head/body seal or the fittings into the head. I pulled the fittings (part #58 in the diagram http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Manual_Pump_Parts.pdf) and changed the washers (#54). Turns out the leak was coming from the end cap (130). Cringe as you may, a set of curved jaw channel locks worked great to get the cap off. Changed the seal (129) and no more leaks. I was fortunate to have a spare pump sitting on the bench, so I had nothing to loose removing the cap. If the tool was available on the market, or you are mechanically skilled enough to craft one, it would save your struggle with pliers. But the seal can be changed on the car.
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Old February 21st, 2014, 18:33   #235
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[QUOTE=98tdicolo;3653369]I hope you are wrong. Here is a pic of the module. Can it be sealed and is a socket available. It is different than the top socket. I know Bosch must have them. Thanks.
This This "box" cannot be removed from the QA housing. It is basically an adapter housing that seals the wires into the Q/A housing. The wire leads on the inside of the pump are solid wires that are welded (not soldered) to the stand-off assembly. It is very rare to develop a leak here because there are actually two seals behind the "black box", but if you do, you are out of luck and will need another pump (the seals are not available from Bosch because the Q/A assembly is considered by Bosch to be non-serviceable because the special process used to weld the wires inside cannot be duplicated in the field.
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Old February 21st, 2014, 19:00   #236
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Default Injection pump reseal service

Click http://www.ebay.com/itm/251430794858...84.m1555.l2649 for top quality reseal service for your TDI injjection pump by a true professional. Full disclosure - I am the the person who is offering the service, and have been a factory trained Diesel Fuel Injection technician since 1982, but the reason I am posting this info here is due to reading all of the stories of pumps being resealed and then having Q/A codes and perfromance problems. The service offered here is to replace all of the seals in your pump except for the black box seals on the side of the Q/A, and those rarely leak), including the drive shaft seal, which includes removing and reinstalling the drive hub (on ALH pumps) in the exactly correct position (which is insures static timing is back to original specifications). You will NOT have to perform any Q/A corrections with the VAGCOM. This can only be done by installing the Q/A housing back in the exact same position as it was before it was removed to replace the seal beneath it; I use a jig and depth micrometer that enables me to install the housing within .0005" inches of original (half a thousandth of an inch) which will result in proper performance without having to "fudge" your ECU into thinking the Q/A is back to spec (which can't always be done). Contrary to popular belief, the Q/A housing position is part of the pumps calibration by Bosch when it was built new, and once that setting is lost, it is very difficult to get it back to original with having a Bosch Diesel shop recailbrate the pump. The service has been offered on Ebay since 2007 with hundreds of satisfied customers (100% satisfaction). Check it out, and drop me a note if you have questions.

Last edited by dieseldrive; June 14th, 2014 at 07:03.
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Old March 1st, 2014, 01:25   #237
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i changed the head seal,cut off solenid seal and now it doesnt drip fuel but it does look wet still.
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Old July 25th, 2014, 19:05   #238
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Just did my 3 seals a couple of days ago. Wasn't bad except had one bolt that I couldn't see where it went without a mirror. Also primed the pump at first, it would start then die. I then took a mental break and after 2 hours it dawned on me. I went outside at about midnight, primed the injection pump like the diesel geeks did in the video and it fired right up.

No more leaking all over everything plus I got rid of a couple dead spots in the lower rpm range
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Old August 14th, 2014, 13:18   #239
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So you can remove part 130 from the head without messing anything up?
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Old August 17th, 2014, 16:43   #240
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the video is in youtube bro, just take the time to check it out. super clear!
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