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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old June 23rd, 2016, 08:52   #106
BluGraphTDI
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I had the Bank 1 temperature sensor go bad about 1.5 months ago now. My car was at 61,000mi so out of any warranty coverage. As people mentioned here, I was not ready to dish out $600 on a sensor that went bad on me before (in conjunction with some other boost sensors) right before the buyback.

I talked with the dealership I bought the car through and have had some warranty work done at and explained the situation. They ended up submitting the work through the good-will channels (warranty-like coverage past warranty timeframe) and I ended up paying $125 for all parts/labor for VW to replace the sensor for me. I happily obliged as the cost for the sensor and tool alone was at least $150 plus the 12-pack of beer required to finely thread the thing back together. I also used my VW gift card to pay.

Looking forward to June 28th! I want a new car already...
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Old July 4th, 2016, 14:18   #107
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Just wanted to say thanks for the detailed info! I had this same code after doing my DPF delete. The Malone Tuning reseller (fixmyvw.com) said one of the EGT sensors would be deleted by the tune, but I wasn't sure which one.

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Old July 9th, 2016, 15:20   #108
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Talk about timing: we had just made up our minds to return the car -2012 TDI JSW, 61,000 miles- during the (still to be approved) buyback later this year, to replace it with a fixed 2015 TDI, and now this!
Dealer quoted $889, doesn't want to cover even part of it, neither does VW CARE.

I have the part in hand (two-day USPS shipping from ECStuning, ordered Thursday evening, arrived Saturday morning), but the tool is still on its way. I assume there is no way to do it without the special cutaway socket (I can barely get my hand past the DPF heatshield and touch the elbow of the sensor tubing)? Are there any parts stores that carry this tool?

I'm now about 100 miles after the last DPF burnoff (regeneration), and don't want to drive the car, since I need it to last at least until late fall/winter (if the buyback happens, and another affordable TDI GSW is available), or even longer.

Second, less important question: I saw at least one other post where the pre turbo sensor went right after a fuel filter change. I just finished my 60k mile service. Coincidence? Just mileage related (sensor designed to last 60k miles)? Or could there be some causal relation?

Blugraphtdi, were you able to sort the goodwill repair coverage out with the dealer beforehand, or did you pay for the repair first yourself? My dealer seemingly changes their service advisors on a monthly basis, so even though I visit there quite often, it's hard to build up a relationship.
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Last edited by Diesl; July 9th, 2016 at 15:26.
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Old July 16th, 2016, 12:47   #109
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Just a quick update, in case anybody else uses this thread for research on the pre-turbo sensor replacement: Thanks to the info here it took me only a bit over an hour to swap the sensor. The special snap-on tool (which actually is from german manufacturer Eszet, and fits on a 3/8” ratchet) arrived after four days; once again USPS proved faster than UPS.

Tools used: standard (cheap) 3/8” ratchet, short extension, special Eszet socket. Fitting my wrist between firewall and DPF heat shield was the hardest part. My left arm is pretty scratched up.
For threading in the nut of the new sensor I used the right hand, which in retrospect seemed a better match. With either hand I could just barely touch the nut with the tips of two fingers. To loosen the old sensor, the short 3/8” wrench was just barely long enough to provide enough lever arm. The special socket and the short (3”) extension barely allowed my knuckles to clear the DPF. The special socket allows more than 180 degrees rotation, which is nice. For the insertion the sensor wire has to go behind (towards the motor side) of some pipe, so if doing the whole job from above the sensor has to 'dive in' with the wire and the elbow part first before searching for the port in the exhaust manifold. I did that part without the tool, and then used the special socket to start the threads. Tightening the nut was unproblematic, and I think I got close enough to the 45 Nm just by feel. (Does anybody fit a torque wrench in there?)

I was not able to retrace the original wire routing from above, so the wires for the new sensor double back upwards along the elbow of the sensor, and then loop into a flexible heat shield (the one with the two snaps that shields the wires for two sensors which run between the turbo and the DPF), before joining the original wire route at the metal clip on the turbo heat shield.

Figuring out how to fit wrench, extension and tool behind the DPF to actually access the sensor took the longest (and that's why I'm writing this post). I used the wrench with the handle mostly pointing horizontally to the left, barely clearing the DPF, pulling up to loosen the old sensor nut, and pushing down to tighten the new one.

I was not able to get WD40 onto the old nut, but it proved not to be necessary.

To summarize: I'd recommend ordering the tool and giving it a shot, even if you feel some slight (or major) trepidations about your ability to swap the sensor yourself. As long as your wrist fits behind the DPF you should be good to go.
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Last edited by Diesl; July 16th, 2016 at 14:38.
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Old July 19th, 2016, 16:31   #110
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I have the same code regarding G235 as so many have mentioned before. However, as far as I've read, everybodies car still ran. It just had a flashing glowplug light. Well, my car wont run. So I'm curious/nervous as to what the deal is.

Ive decided to test the harness side of where the sensor connects to just to rule out any harness issues.

Does anybody know what the Volts and Ohms specs are?
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Old July 20th, 2016, 09:50   #111
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What does your car say, besides the flashing glow plug light? How many miles were you able to drive after it first appeared, before the car refused to start (if that is what it does)?

I forgot to say that my sensor failed about 70 miles after the last DPF regeneration, and I only drove another 45 miles before the repair. Given that my car seems to build up 17 grams of soot in 160 to 220 miles, I figured I had only between 400 and 600 miles before clogging the DPF to 45 gram and the point where it would have to come out (for cleaning or replacement).
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Old July 20th, 2016, 14:42   #112
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My car was down for 9 or 10 months due to a cracked head. Replaced that, did ARP head studs and a CR170 turbo while I was in there.

All of the emission stuff is deleted.

She finally started after I cranked it for 10 seconds, where as before I only did 2 or 3 seconds at a time. Im guessing there was just some air caught in the fuel system somewhere, dispite my 20 some odd, 1 min, purge cycles.

However, now it throws me in limp mode everytime I floor it. It'll roll coal like an ALH for about 5 - 6 seconds then limp mode. If I turn the car off and back on, it'll do the same thing.
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Old July 20th, 2016, 15:55   #113
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.....
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Old July 28th, 2016, 14:11   #114
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I had been running the Stage 3.5++ tune for about 25,000 miles with the sensors swapped. I started to feel uneasy about bypassing the EGT limiter so I swapped the sensors back...low and behold my EGT 1 was toast. Just installed a new one about two hours ago and swapped the plugs back to the normal position. All is well again, except now the car pulls fuel back a little sooner because of hitting the EGT limiter at high rpms. The job took me about 20 minutes doing it from the bottom, but I don't have a DPF or EGR canister to contend with. Car has 177,000 miles on it, and I'm wondering if the EGT sensor went because of age, or the added heat of bypassing the limiter with the swap. I may never know...
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Old July 28th, 2016, 14:14   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YukonLT View Post
I had been running the Stage 3.5++ tune for about 25,000 miles with the sensors swapped. I started to feel uneasy about bypassing the EGT limiter so I swapped the sensors back...low and behold my EGT 1 was toast. Just installed a new one about two hours ago and swapped the plugs back to the normal position. All is well again, except now the car pulls fuel back a little sooner because of hitting the EGT limiter at high rpms. The job took me about 20 minutes doing it from the bottom, but I don't have a DPF or EGR canister to contend with. Car has 177,000 miles on it, and I'm wondering if the EGT sensor went because of age, or the added heat of bypassing the limiter with the swap. I may never know...
Probably just age... the ceramic just gets brittle and I can confirm, my 190k mile car dropped the same plug as well. It's nice that it's an easy fix for "some". I'd hate to have to contend with parts blocking my reach.
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Old October 4th, 2016, 17:34   #116
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In case anyone is interested.

Mine broke at 80400km and I did not had time to fix it right away. (and no way I am going to pay 600$ to have the dealer fix it).

I used a 500ohm resistor that I place at the tip of the cable. It reads 630C now. The car can do its regen cycles and I even got rid of the check engine light.

I will fix it when I got time, in the mean time, I just have to be carefull about EGT in regen cycles... meaning not florring it for long period of time.
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Old October 4th, 2016, 19:30   #117
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Got the CEL. Thanks to this thread, narrowed it down to the black plug sensor and was able to change in under an hour!

Thanks for the info!
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Old February 13th, 2017, 18:45   #118
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I felt the need to respond on this thread, it seems to be a sensor failure that many will still experience. This is my second time on this one. The only repair I let the dealer do was the first EGT sensor because I was in a bind, this was a kick in the nuts. When it happened again a couple of weeks ago, I ordered the tool and the sensor from IDparts while monitoring the sensor as it began to fail.

As always 2microns writes are always helpful and thorough. My experience was almost identical Robertsparker. I had my wife guiding me from the top as i raised the sensor up from the bottom, then we switched and I put it in the hole and she was under the car guiding me as I blindly put it in the hole. The best of all, she short has small hands so I asked her to climb on the engine bay and with her small hands she could reach it fully and thread the nut into the hole with ease, stepping back it looked sexy. I wish i thought of it sooner, it would have saved some time.

I do want to add some things to this that I have not seen mentioned. What was helpful to me and my wife when I got her involved was to use a mirror on the firewall to see what you are doing or to locate the hole. A small mechanics mirror can be set on the fire wire without being in the way helping aid the sensor into the hole, showing my wife where the sensor was, and even when I initially had to find it. Someone in this thread said it is rewarding at the end, it sure was. Thanks everyone that contributed.
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Last edited by paperthin; February 13th, 2017 at 19:38. Reason: spelling
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Old March 22nd, 2017, 20:03   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2micron View Post
Hello all, Here is a simple guide to help replace your G235 Temp sensor, Bank one. It is a 2-3 hour job at home, on ramps and you will need the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) mentioned above.
I recieved a flashing Glow Plug and a P0544 code.
VCDS will tell you G235 and which Bank is faulty.
The Part number for my VIN was 03L-906-088L.
This is the sensor with the Black Connector, which is easy to locate the connector portion. Your G235 Connector is the black one, below the Orange Connector.

.
The threaded portion of the sensor is just below the Turbo, threaded into the Exhaust Manifold. Not a very friendly location!! (Item#37)

.
I didn't have time to wait for the special tool, (VW #T40055 or Snap On #FRXM-17) so I simply modified a 17mm deep 3/8" drive impact socket. You can do this with an angle grinder and cut off disc.
.
Here's the new sensor and it works best with a flex head ratchet and 6" extension.
The easiest access is from above, once you locate it!!! You still have to remove the belly pan and access the bottom to route the wires properly.
.Here are some basic steps:
- safely raise car and remove belly pan.
- locate the black connector and simply pull it out of its steel attacment firewall clip. Typical VW connector, squeeze the tab inwards with your thumb, while compressing the two connectors together. This easily releases the connection. Do not use screwdrivers to pry or lift tabs!!
- gently unfasten the loom and unclip the plastic and steel holders.
- pay attention to the routing from under the car!!
I removed this cover (17mm wrench) to help see the wire routing:
.
- fully seat the socket and remove sensor from above.
- coat the threads of the new sensor with high temp thread anti-seize. Do not get any on the sensor tip. Avoid touching the tip, similar to the cautions you use with headlight bulbs!!
.
I struggled to get the sensor in from the top. I made up this Push Stick from a coat hanger to guide and insert the sensor from the bottom:
.
Make it about 12" long!
.
Up she goes!!

.
- Tighten the sensor from above, ensuring the angled tube is not touching the oil line. Official Torque is 45 Nm or 33 foot pounds.
**you have to re-index the socket every 1/3 turn, so the angled tube doesn't contact the socket body!!!**
- carefully re-route the wire, replace the zip tie and clips.
- insert the connectors and test pull apart to make sure they are locked.
Make sure the wire can not contact the EGR filter or DPF.
- reinstall the plastic driveshaft shield and belly pan..
Avoid prolonging changing this sensor. While it is faulty, no regens will happen. I left mine for about 250 miles, to be rewarded with a DPF light. Thankfully, after about 50 miles, the DPF light went out!!
Here is more information and a great site!!:
http://volkswagen.workshop-manuals.c...ex.php?id=5185 .
Hope this helps,
Please feel free to add any more tips!
All the best,
Andrew
Thank you for this post, I have in skinny arms and longer fingers so I was able to use the tool I ordered from snapon and get the sensor out from the top on my 2010 Jetta Sedan TDI. I cut the wire at a few places to remove it easily. I put the new sensor from the top and tightened from top and had to get under the car to route the wire and zip tie it from the bottom like it was done originally. I used the tool and small extension and the regular 3/8 ratchet for the job. Took 2.5hrs in total. Cleared the error, set the car to perform DPF regen while driving and went for 20 min ride on the highway. The DPF light went out once regen was done and the g235 error never came back. I didn't have to open any cover at the bottom and didn't have to use hanger wire (skinny arms and long fingers)

I am returning my TDI next month once the diesel suit is settled so bought used sensor from eBay for $50 USD and the tool was $35 US including shipping from snapon US. They sell VW tools directly to consumers. VW stealer quoted me $800 to fix it ($500 for parts for sensor and some clip that connects DpF to turbo + 2.5hr labour)

Last edited by digitalextremes; March 22nd, 2017 at 20:11.
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Old July 21st, 2017, 20:58   #120
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Quick follow up to this post. I changed mine tonight without any special tools. You can remove the EGR filter to make this job easy. From underneath remove the EGR filter band clamp, and 2 bolts going into EGR. Be careful not to loose the small thin gasket on at the v-band clamp end. There is a 13mm nut to remove from the top that supports this ugly thing. This will let you easily access the G235 sensor from the bottom. Took me about an hour start to finish. My car would not manually start a regen, but I took it for a highway drive and it went automatically.
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