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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old October 4th, 2016, 14:15   #31
Nozzleman
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You might also pick up a Haynes manual. It has a great PCM wiring diagram and I found it much more useful than the Bentley.
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Old October 4th, 2016, 19:23   #32
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Nozzel is that a chevy NV3500 your using? I dont remember ford ever using them. I have talked to Hansenwerks and I will be using his cruise box for sure as the dodge uses a similar resistor setup as a ranger.
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Old October 7th, 2016, 19:03   #33
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I am running a NV3550 out of a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I chose that because it allows me to start with a bigger clutch than the Ford 3.0 or 4.0 adapters allow.

I am starting with a Malone 4 tune and might go up from there.
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Old October 15th, 2016, 21:34   #34
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Well I finally had a full day off and proceeded to get some things organized and pull the 4.7 out. I have some more dodge stuff to fix as I found a good chunk of cancer on the rad support. It bolts in so a trip to the junk yard should fix that. Next up is bolt up my adapter and see if it all fits correctly.




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Old November 5th, 2016, 18:24   #35
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I found a deal on a new radiator support so I got that installed.


I also put the front pumpkin back in to check my clearance. I will also have to fabricate a bracket for it as the rear attach point was bolted to the stock v8 block.



Plenty of clearance for the starter. Ill have even more once I get it running and upgrade the turbo and probably use a BEW manifold.



4L jeep flywheel and clutch fit fine. Its a about a 1/2 inch smaller than the stock 4.7 clutch.



The NV3500 has a window on it that makes it easy to inspect when its bolted up. Pilot bearing is riding perfectly.


Bolted up looks like I am capturing 5 bolts on the trans. only 2 just under the dowels. This is the first run on this adapter if i am not mistaken. 5 should be enough but I we may have to make an adjustment since my front pumpkin will probably need a bracket made that is going to bolt to the bottom of the adapter. I wont know till I swing it in the truck to make motor mounts.



My 2 year old son helping me torque down the pressure plate.
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Old November 8th, 2016, 16:08   #36
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as for the cam/crank sensor debacle-

when I did the 4bt durango swap I simply used a relay to jump the crank sender signal to the ecu cam wire only while key was at start. That was enough to get the ecu going 95%+ of the time. Rarley the tach would be dead , A quick off and restart would get it going.

For me, as long as the tach worked, the Cruise worked.
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Old November 9th, 2016, 18:02   #37
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Yea I read that crank signal trick on a 4btswaps thread. I might try that to see if it will work with TDI. Yes cruise would be super simple with a Manual pump setup.
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Old November 16th, 2016, 19:58   #38
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Got a few hours to work on the truck today and got half of one thing done. There is no way the stock driverside mount will work so I tacked a rod in place to hold up the diff will I worked on the rear diff bracket.





After stabbing the motor I had to cut the bracket and will weld it after I build the motor mounts.



There is just over a 1/4 inch of room from the vac pump to the firewall. The insulation is touching.



My AC compressor delima is fixable as I will have to fab a mount up high it seems and maybe add an idler pulley. Unless there is a bracket that puts the accessory's in a different configuration? I will have to search around to see if there is. A quick search didn't show anything.

Last edited by Motohead1; November 17th, 2016 at 17:59. Reason: Hilariously large anoying pics
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Old November 16th, 2016, 20:31   #39
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Woah. Can you resize those pics please? Instead of copying the full size link, grab the medium size one.
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Old November 16th, 2016, 21:24   #40
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Do yourself a favour and move the whole engine/trans forward at least an inch. You'll thank yourself if you ever have to remove the vacuum pump. I have 1/2" on my setup and it takes me over an hour to remove it every time - and I've had it out at least 5 times now.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 18:16   #41
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I must have been tired when I posted those pics. Fixed now.

Here is a shot showing the pumpkin to trans mount before cutting. I moved the trans fwd about 2 inches.


Reddok I did slide it fwd about 3/4 inch today before I tacked up the pass side motor mount and trans to pumpkin mount. Basically slide it as far forward as the stock trans mount would allow. No reason I couldn't since I had to cut the pumpkin mount anyway. No pics today as I was in hurry to beat the cold.
Do these Vac pumps tent to go bad alot?


So next up is build the driver side mount. Its going to be a little more complicated. Not sure if I can cut the stock dodge mount and build off of it yet.
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Old November 19th, 2016, 19:02   #42
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Here is the pass side mount completed.


Pumpkin aft brace completed


Installed

Pan clearance lots of room.


Pass side mount installed.


Cutting the divers side stock mount will actually work if you dont mind pulling the motor to change a bad alternator. Since I do mind I am waiting for a ford f150 hyd mount to show up so I can finish fabing the driverside.
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Old November 19th, 2016, 19:06   #43
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I went ahead and built a bolt in bracket for the go pedal.




This pic makes it look alot lower but its actually in the same spot as the stock pedal was.
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Old November 24th, 2016, 18:00   #44
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One of the stranger looking mounts I have made but it works and gives me lots of room.




The only major fabrication left is the AC compressor mounting. Not sure what route I will go.


Is there a factory setup that put the AC on the right hand side of the ALH block?
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Old November 24th, 2016, 18:18   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motohead1 View Post
Do these Vac pumps tent to go bad alot?
No, they rarely fail. You do need to remove them to do the timing belt however.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motohead1 View Post
Is there a factory setup that put the AC on the right hand side of the ALH block?
The BHW (B5 Passat) mounts the compressor on the right hand side of the block.
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