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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old January 29th, 2016, 22:13   #1
HoneyBadger
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Location: San Jose, CA
Fuel Economy: Always over 40
Default ALH into 95 Ranger 4x4

Figured its about time to start my own thread. I've been nibbling on this project for a little over 2 years now, and am now starting to make some noticeable progress and figured I should start documenting what I've been doing to keep track of everything and to help any one else looking to do one of these swaps.
I want to give a shout out to greekgeeker also because his thread is what got me to actually pull the trigger on doing this project. I plan to follow his lead and put my own twist on the swap. More details later.
Seeing his actual mileage numbers took a lot of my doubts about the benefits of doing this project away. I'm tired of getting 14-17mpg in my ranger. Looking forward to 30+ hopefully 35-40+ !
The base:
1995 Ford Ranger 4x4 5 spd.

The donor:

Pulling the TDI:


Clean block waiting for primer:

Primered:

Painted:


Wiring Harness as I pulled from the donor:


All the gunk that was in the intake:


Reassembled:



I will not be pulling the motor out of the Ranger until May or June after I move. Right now I am just doing a bunch of prep work to get the new motor ready to go in.
Up to this point I've pretty much been doing maintenance to the engine and a little bit of stalling hoping that GreenGeeker was going to get his adapters for sale. Ended up with one from TDconversions, still in the process of getting it installed on the motor.
Things I've done so far:
Painted the block
Cleaned the intake
Timing belt replacement (and all associated parts)
replace broken parts from the accident
Started to remove unnecessary wires from Jetta Harness
Acquired an engine/trans adapter from TDConversions

Planned:
NB Radiator and fans
Similar intercooler as Greengeeker mounted in the same fashion
Use fuel pump from an 87 ranger diesel as a lift pump
Install a second fuel tank and have the lines installed(ready to install) before starting the swap then add the ability to use both once swap is running.
My ranger was offered with the passenger airbag as an option that was not installed, so if it doesn't become a giant PITA I am planning to mount all TDI related fuses and relays in this compartment as its empty real estate and would keep all of these components easy to access and safe from the elements.

I know there is more, but that's all I can remember tonight. Will update as I remember and think of other things.

Last edited by HoneyBadger; January 29th, 2016 at 22:41.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:57   #2
curtis75
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I am doing a similar swap but haven't got around to doing a thread. Mine is a 02 fx4. There are a few things that make a 4x4 swap a little more challenging. The big one is the front diff. The diff is on the drivers side right where the alh ac compressor would sit. It's not a show stopper but be prepared to relocate it if you want to keep ac. I used the ac compressor off a Passat which is on the opposite side.i can see if I can dig up my plans for my adapter plate for you. The only draw back is I rotated the engine to be at 20 degrees like it is in the Jetta and I kept the ranger rad which mean most of my plumbing is on the passenger side so it is pretty tight. I believe greengeekers adapter is straight up and down which might give you some more room.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 12:38   #3
HoneyBadger
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Thanks Curtis,
My truck has the older style twin traction beam front suspension, so I'm wondering if I'll have space for it. My truck did not come from the factory with A/C and I'm not planning to install the necessary parts. If there is room for the compressor I will turn it into an on board air compressor, otherwise I will delete it.
What's stopping you from starting your own thread?
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Old January 30th, 2016, 13:14   #4
curtis75
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I'll put something together when it's done. It's a fairly slow project so updating it regularily wouldn't happen
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Old January 31st, 2016, 12:10   #5
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Very cool honeybadger! I look forward to watchig your progress. I've been keeping an eye out for a 4x4 with a blown motor but still need to finish up the last few power mods on my current truck.

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Old February 2nd, 2016, 06:51   #6
vwztips
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Cool project, subscribed. Hey greenkeeper I have an early 90's Explorer 5 door with a 5 speed manual I will be selling soon. It runs but barely
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Old February 3rd, 2016, 19:47   #7
HoneyBadger
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Adapter plate and motor mounts are installed:


Driver side mount:


Passenger side mount:


Starter on the mounting plate:

I learned something new about starters after a quick email to Randy at TDconversions.
When the starter is engaged it extends out to engage against the flywheel. This was different than I have seen on other starters and threw me for a loop. It's supposed to look like this when installed.
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Old February 4th, 2016, 10:49   #8
Exenos
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I'll be watching this closely, I have a '97 4wd that I'm gathering parts for to do the same swap.
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Old September 30th, 2016, 11:20   #9
HoneyBadger
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Default The engine is out!

Finally have an update to add! Just had to graduate college and move before I could start. The engine has been removed from the truck and I am finally starting the actual swap.

I purchased an auto coolant outlet and modified it so that it would work with the set up. Here's the difference between an manual and auto coolant outlet.
Manual vs. Auto outlet
an M12 bolt I shortened to fit nicely to block off the outlet to the oil cooler. I will provide a new passage for it else where.
shortened bolt
Installed. I'll put up a better picture later.
Coolant outlet
I plan to modify the air box so that it mounts nicely. I have access to a CNC Plasma so I'm going to cut out some thin sheet steel and mate it to the air box. I'll post more pictures as I get into it.

I appologize for the blurry pictures, but hopefully they still get the point across. I'll try to get better ones before I install everything.
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Old October 20th, 2016, 17:41   #10
HoneyBadger
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Default engine in the engine bay

Well I finally got a chance to set the engine in the truck. I wish I had better news for anyone else with a 93 -97 Ranger. The engine cross member is more in the way than it appears to be for the newer rangers. And the steering box is more in the way than a rack would be.

I tried to trim the bracket just a bit to make it fit, but it wasn't nearly enough.

The engine still needs to go back 2-3 inches to mate up to the transmission.
And when you look at it from a different angle you can tell that I'm not going to be able to keep the entire boss that holds the A/C compressor and idler pulley.

Time to look for other solutions. If anyone has any ideas I'd be interested in hearing them. Right now I'm considering cutting the bracket at the moment to be able to fit the engine. But I'm not sure if I'll be able to make this work as a permanent solution. Will keep you guys updated on what I come up with .
On top of the bracket not fitting, even with the extra spacing from the TDconversions adapter plate, the vacuum pump hits the firewall. So i'll need to make some more space for the engine there as well.
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Old October 20th, 2016, 18:18   #11
HoneyBadger
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Default Airbox and Radiator

The reason I set the engine in the engine bay was to see how much room I had to mount the radiator and figure out what I want to do with the air box. Turns out I have a ton of space to work with.

The engine still needs to be pushed back another 4 inches or so to mate with the transmission. So I have around 16 inches (minus where the accessory belt will be) to work with to mount a radiator and run intake and coolant piping. At least this part shouldn't be that hard to make work.

Radiator mocked up/set in place.

I'm going to attach the radiator mounts to some sheet metal in the truck that lines up just about right. I just need to extend it up for the top radiator mount. The bolts for the drivers side will be blocked by the radiator when its installed. It'll need to be slid into the mounts once they are installed.

the passenger side will need to be built up a little bit as well. just on the other side so that the bolts will be accessible and easy to get to.
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Old October 21st, 2016, 09:04   #12
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I would cut down the crossmember and reenforce what's left to clear the oil pan
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Old October 21st, 2016, 17:04   #13
Exenos
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The interference issues are because of the thiner frame rail spacing of a ranger when compared to most trucks. I'm running into issues with the waterpump on my ahu interfering with the motor mount because of it.

Last edited by Exenos; October 21st, 2016 at 19:35.
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Old October 21st, 2016, 20:28   #14
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[QUOTE=HoneyBadger;5150716]
I purchased an auto coolant outlet and modified it so that it would work with the set up. Here's the difference between an manual and auto coolant outlet.


I sell quite a few of these.

http://gastodiesel.tdconversions.com/accessories/

Makes a nice clean install.
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Old October 21st, 2016, 20:40   #15
ronnierider
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After swapping into my 87 4Runner, my advice is to move it forward. Less fab and more access to the rear of your diesel. Trust me, easiest part of the swap was dropping iff the driveshafts and saying change these by 3 inches. $150 boom bolt them up and go. Saved so many other clearance issues etc.
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