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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old March 1st, 2020, 19:21   #121
3L3M3NT
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Here's the new turbo setup and manifold.










I was able to find a replacement BHW engine just outside of the Twin Cities and was able to have a friend pick it up and drop it off at my buddies place near Oshkosh. This time I'll be sending the pistons, turbine housing, and manifold out to get ceramic coated to hopefully help manage the heat a bit better.

I'll post another update when the parts are back from ceramic coating and are getting ready for install.

I posted this in the W/M thread, but I figure I might as well post this in my thread and see if people wanna weigh in on installing W/M on my car.

I'm considering adding Water/Meth to my car to keep the EGTs in check. I primarily use the car for HPDE(track days) and would like to keep the EGTs to around 1500F, since they currently push into the 1600+ range on the straightaways. I'm open to other suggestions as well.

Here are some of the options I've found. Ranked in the order of 1st choice to last choice.
https://cppdiesel.com/snow-45006-pow...nol-injection/
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/...tank_black_lid
https://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-...etCurrencyId=2

Thanks for taking the time help me figure out what my best option is.
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Old March 1st, 2020, 20:46   #122
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If you want better control over EGT's, put in bigger nozzles/injectors and dial the fuel delivery back in the tune to an equivalent amount. Basically, anything more than a very light haze of smoke out the back is going to cause broken parts with what you're doing - Keep Air Fuel ratio's in the 18-20:1 range max.

I'd consider this before a water (only water, no meth) injection system and all the extra complexity it adds (and risk if it doesn't work).

Some close up photo's of the piston bowl lips would be interesting to see - Cleaned up with some solvent and paper towel (no media blasting or physical removal). If you can't find any reason for foreign object damage in cylinder 4, maybe a piece of piston broke off?
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Old March 1st, 2020, 21:12   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
If you want better control over EGT's, put in bigger nozzles/injectors and dial the fuel delivery back in the tune to an equivalent amount. Basically, anything more than a very light haze of smoke out the back is going to cause broken parts with what you're doing - Keep Air Fuel ratio's in the 18-20:1 range max.

I'd consider this before a water (only water, no meth) injection system and all the extra complexity it adds (and risk if it doesn't work).

Some close up photo's of the piston bowl lips would be interesting to see - Cleaned up with some solvent and paper towel (no media blasting or physical removal). If you can't find any reason for foreign object damage in cylinder 4, maybe a piece of piston broke off?
The thing is, is that I've got some pretty big injectors in the car right now. I even went from the +80% Firad nozzles to +120% Firad nozzles on a set of PD100 injectors, which is supposed to be good for 330bhp. My car dynoed at 286AWHP and 404 lb-ft of torque, so I should have plenty as far as fueling goes.
I just think the tune needs to be dialed back for what I'm doing and be less concerned about dyno numbers. Like you mentioned, the car needs to be putting out a low haze and not a plume of smoke everytime the car is coming out of a corner or a gear shift is made.

That's probably a good call on not adding a W/M kit(water mostly kit ) Just one more thing to go wrong and add to the complexity of the car.

I'll see if the guy working on my car can get some better/close up pictures of piston 4 to see if there's a chunk of piston missing that went out of the exhaust and into the turbine wheel. It's either that or the possibility that the tip of the injector broke off and caused that damage... I'll see if I can get some better pictures of both piston #4 and the injector from cylinder 4 and post them up.
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Old March 6th, 2020, 18:54   #124
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Random thought while driving down the road today - you'll likely need at least 1 new nozzle. May as well go big
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Old March 21st, 2020, 21:25   #125
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To be honest I don't think that I need to go to a larger size nozzle. The +120% nozzles flow enough for 330bhp and for what I'm looking to do with the car that's more than enough to fuel my car. With the piston failing in cylinder 4 and the turbo getting taken out in the process has me rethinking how much I wanna push this engine setup.

Adam at Pioneering Performance suggested I dial back the fueling after he saw how much soot was built up on the hot side of the turbo and I can understand why after I told him how many hours were on that turbo.

I'd rather start on the lower end of the power spectrum and bring it up little by little until it's making good power, but out of the threshold where it could blow up.
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Old March 26th, 2020, 19:40   #126
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With the engine needing to be rebuilt, I decided it would be a good idea to ceramic coat the pistons this time around. My mechanic sent the pistons to Swain Tech Coatings to have them coat the top of the pistons with their Gold Coat and had their PC-9 coating on the skirt.

The pistons look pretty darn good from the pictures my mechanic sent me yesterday when they arrived at his place.





The coating looks a little bit different in the daylight.


Now we're just waiting on them to coat the turbine housing and exhaust manifold and then ship them out when they're done. Unfortunately it might take a bit longer than it normally would with the coronavirus forcing them to adjust their production schedule. Fingers crossed that they can get them coated in the next couple of weeks.
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Old March 27th, 2020, 06:16   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3L3M3NT View Post
To be honest I don't think that I need to go to a larger size nozzle. The +120% nozzles flow enough for 330bhp and for what I'm looking to do with the car that's more than enough to fuel my car. With the piston failing in cylinder 4 and the turbo getting taken out in the process has me rethinking how much I wanna push this engine setup.

Adam at Pioneering Performance suggested I dial back the fueling after he saw how much soot was built up on the hot side of the turbo and I can understand why after I told him how many hours were on that turbo.

I'd rather start on the lower end of the power spectrum and bring it up little by little until it's making good power, but out of the threshold where it could blow up.

Smoke is power that you can see but not use.
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Old March 31st, 2020, 21:42   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinski4 View Post
Smoke is power that you can see but not use.
If cylinder 4 hadn't failed at the track my plan was to dial back the fueling to clean up the amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust and try and get it closer to a light haze. After this rebuild we'll definitely be dialing the fueling back to increase the longevity of all of the engine parts and turbo.

Then on a side note...my mechanic friend got the turbine housing back from being ceramic coated. It turned out fantastic imo.
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