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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old April 6th, 2015, 22:14   #61
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I don't know why the piston isnt protruding, but I thought I'd mention that the proper way to measure piston protrusion is on the sides of the piston in-line with the wrist pin. Otherwise the piston may rock slightly in its cylinder and throw off your measurements.
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Old April 7th, 2015, 05:59   #62
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Really? It seems to me like that would put the gauge in the valve pockets which are flush with the top of the block or are you referring to the very top of the piston on either side of the wrist pin?
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Old April 7th, 2015, 07:01   #63
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Really? It seems to me like that would put the gauge in the valve pockets which are flush with the top of the block or are you referring to the very top of the piston on either side of the wrist pin?
Ah I didn't even notice that you had oversized valve pockets or something going on there. On the stock ALH pistons its possible to measure where I said.

I suppose for you, measuring as close you can get to the centerline of the wrist pin without falling into the valve pockets would be the most accurate?

The problem with the way you are doing it is that you can take the piston and rock it back and forth a bit in the bore and your numbers will vary by a decent amount. So just whatever you can do to avoid that.


I think here might be your best bet

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Old April 7th, 2015, 11:29   #64
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Ill give it a shot next time I pull the block out, waiting on new rings and a tapered ring compressor to arrive.
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Old April 7th, 2015, 11:32   #65
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Honesty the way you're doing it is probably fine, but I just thought I'd mention it to maybe save you the grief of getting the wrong head gasket.

Very weird that the one piston doesn't protrude.
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Old April 7th, 2015, 12:35   #66
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that crosshatch on the cylinder pic looks awful. I can see the grit still all over the cylinder and the crosshatch is too flat. needs to be peaked more. I would get re honed and scrub the heck out of it with hot soapy water till a white rag can be rubbed in cylinder and come out spotless.
Can you feel the little groove at top of cylinder where you were concerned about it?
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Old April 8th, 2015, 05:40   #67
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Really? Is it that bad? I had the cylinders re-bored to fit the oversize pistons a few years ago when I first bought it. I don't recall being able to feel the scratch but if I'm going to end up re-honing the cylinders I guess it doesn't really matter does it?
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Old April 8th, 2015, 06:01   #68
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Don't forget, you're talking to a bunch of armchair experts

I don't see any issues - the little marks I do see on the cylinder are above any ring lands.

Make sure the piston protrusion is correct. Measure carefully, if that one is still low, pull the rods and compare, pull pistons and compare, swap holes, etc.
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Old April 8th, 2015, 12:07   #69
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Alright will do, thanks.
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Old April 11th, 2015, 04:44   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFettig View Post
Don't forget, you're talking to a bunch of armchair experts

I don't see any issues - the little marks I do see on the cylinder are above any ring lands.

Make sure the piston protrusion is correct. Measure carefully, if that one is still low, pull the rods and compare, pull pistons and compare, swap holes, etc.
I take slight offense to that. Lol. I am a Journeyman Millwright and know a little bit about cylinder crosshatches. Those dont look good. And if you can put a white cloth down the bore and it comes out dirty, dont be surprised when your rings are failing very early in their life. But hey, what do I know.
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Old April 11th, 2015, 14:39   #71
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After getting two new ring sets shipped from Rock Auto (79 + .5mm) and a tapered ring compressor we are back on track. Turns out this guy forgot to put a rod bearing into the number 2 the piston now protrudes just fine. Got my measurements with the engine level and they were vastly different than the ones I got with the engine just hanging out on the stand. Pictures!

Block girdle on, measurements taken.


Should I be greasing the rod bearing surface since it's not a place oil will go? Oil will stay on the other side of the bearing where the crank journal is so it would make sense to lube the concave side.


So pretty


Here are the numbers for the pistons. I measured on either side of the pin.


So it would seem that I need a two hole gasket, but I'm pretty sure I'm going with a 3 due to the oversized cam and better safe than sorry.
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Old April 11th, 2015, 18:59   #72
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I lubed all bearings on both sides when assembling them, fwiw.

When you measure the piston protrusion on the front and back, you rock the piston. See the point where the valve pockets are cut through? Measure your clearances on those 4 points to get your piston projection/protrusion. Having a 0.1mm delta on a single piston seems a bit high. If memory serves, I have 0.028" on one, 0.033" on 2 pistons and 0.038" projection on another, am, which equates to ~0.75mm, ~0.83mm, and ~0.97mm projections.
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Old April 12th, 2015, 09:58   #73
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Rock the piston as in turn the crank CW then CCW then CW then CCW and measure every time? That's what I was doing if that's what you are referring to.
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Old April 12th, 2015, 13:18   #74
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The piston has a little bit of play on the pivot of the wrist pin so it can be slightly rotated/rocked/tilted, without moving the crank, towards the front of the engine and to the back of the engine. Hope that explains it better
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Old April 13th, 2015, 05:50   #75
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It does, measure, push toward back (toward cyl 4), measure again, pull forward (toward cyl 1), repeat for all 4 areas (either side of the wrist pin and either end of the wrist pin).
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