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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old July 17th, 2011, 19:18   #1
GardRail
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Default Timing belt fun

Managed to get to the point in the timingbelt how-to where the valve cover is to be removed and discovered that the previous owner may have cranked down two of the bolts way too **** tight. What would be the best tool to try and remove stripped out alan bolts? Would an Irwin bolt-out be more reliable than beating the thing with a cold chisel?

I've removed the intake again to give myself a bit more room...
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Old July 17th, 2011, 21:00   #2
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I bought these sockets
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...1&blockType=L1
I found the one socket in the set that was a little too small to go over the outside of the head of the valve cover bolts, put an extension on it, and beat it onto the outside of the bolt. The bolt head was soft enough that it actually formed little grooves in it and the socket could grab the head. It may work with a standard 12 pt. socket as well. You'll have to order some new bolts. I always order a bunch just in case I screw one up or if nothing else you'll have some for next time. Every time I take off that valve cover, I put in new bolts. They're 85. Order 10 or so.
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=936
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Old July 18th, 2011, 02:24   #3
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Boltouts work great. You might have to remove the intake to gain access to the back ones if they are (and they usually are) the ones in question.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 02:45   #4
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Yup, Craftsman or Irwin bolt-outs are where it's at. Added a set to my TB tools based on the last one I had to do. Pick the one that fits snugly, tap it on with a ball-peen hammer and insert a 3/8" socket & extension to easily remove the bolt. And put a tiny, tiny bit of anti-seize on the new bolts when you put them in.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 03:47   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scurvy View Post
Yup, Craftsman or Irwin bolt-outs are where it's at. Added a set to my TB tools based on the last one I had to do. Pick the one that fits snugly, tap it on with a ball-peen hammer and insert a 3/8" socket & extension to easily remove the bolt. And put a tiny, tiny bit of anti-seize on the new bolts when you put them in.


That was exactly what i was going to ask - which brands / type. I'm going to see if I cant run out to Sears to get a set of bolt-outs. I've seen anti-seize used on here from time to time - what brand does everyone typically use?
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Old July 18th, 2011, 04:34   #6
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I've used Permatex regular, nuclear-grade nickel-based & marine-grade copper anti-seize. All of them have worked well, and should, as this isn't a terribly demanding application. Just be sure you only put the tiniest, thinnest dab on the bolts, roll in into the threads with your finger and be certain your hex socket is firmly seated in the head before tightening.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 06:31   #7
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Torque spec is 7 ft.lbs. (~84in.lbs)

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Old July 18th, 2011, 06:42   #8
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Before you even try to remove them you give them a love tap with a hammer. Breaks them free and they come right out.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 09:01   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonTDI View Post
Before you even try to remove them you give them a love tap with a hammer. Breaks them free and they come right out.
Good advice on the love tap - also works to make sure your hex drive socket is seated well in the head. Sometimes it also helps to tighten the bolt slightly first before removing it.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 09:30   #10
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awesome advice!

I def plan on torqing the bolts down to 7ftlbs when I complete the job - I'm wondering if someone followed the gudntight method with a longer ratchet.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 09:45   #11
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The bolt out set is a really good idea. The other place you will need it is when you go to remove the harmonic balancer. I've only done 8 TB replacements, but I have not done one yet that didn't need the bolt outs on 1 or 2 of the 4 in the balancer.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 09:53   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Hound View Post
The bolt out set is a really good idea. The other place you will need it is when you go to remove the harmonic balancer. I've only done 8 TB replacements, but I have not done one yet that didn't need the bolt outs on 1 or 2 of the 4 in the balancer.
I look forward to having all sorts of foul language emenating from the garage. I probably should wait until the kids go to sleep before I start in on the balancer.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 11:46   #13
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I just got back from Sears and bought the cheapest set of bolt-outs I could find. The valve cover bolt took a #4, and after tapping it on with a hammer, the bolts came out like someone lit a fire under their asses!

Bolt-outs are right up there with helicoils in my book. whoever came up with the design for both of them should be nominated for some sorta award!
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Old July 18th, 2011, 18:18   #14
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Huh.....The HB bolts. Only need the bolt out on one out of 20 cars...MAC allens help. Quality ones. Also use a LONG thin rachet that has some flex. It snaps them loose.
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Old July 19th, 2011, 05:02   #15
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I use an impact. Rarely do I round them out.
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