Found a really nice TDI..should I buy it?

I found a 2000 VW TDI in mint shape with all service records. 220K on it, all the maintenance is up to date. The only problem is that it's an automatic. Is this a major worry for this year/this many kms?? Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks!

Jerry, has the transmission been replaced recently? If not, deduct $5,500.00 for upcoming repairs.

Welcome aboard!

No, the transmission hasn't been replaced. :-( Dammit!! So..I should disqualify the car? I need it to last the year without having to pay for any major repairs, so I can pay off the loan in a year. Should I exclude ALL automatics in my search? Or simply exclude ALL Jettas at 220-330k that haven't had the tranny replaced?

Yup. On the upside, a manual can be had for about the same price and probably won't give you grief.

jerrydgallant said:

No, the transmission hasn't been replaced. :-( Dammit!! So..I should disqualify the car? I need it to last the year without having to pay for any major repairs, so I can pay off the loan in a year. Should I exclude ALL automatics in my search? Or simply exclude ALL Jettas at 220-330k that haven't had the tranny replaced?

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I would exclude any small VW, pre-2004, fitted with one of thost nasty gearboxes. And they've been known to be nasty for many, many years

.....that would mean that I shouldn't even be looking at diesel VW's then? 2004 prices me out......

Not if you want/need an auto. You don't want to play that game.

If you can deal with the 5-speed, You can easily go early 2000s and be confident. I'd prefer somewhere before the timing belt was due, where you could factor it into the cost and get it done yourself and know it's done right.

My 2003 had 195k and it looked/drove like it had 75k. Really.

Ok. To be clear: If I find a manual 5-speed TDI with 270K that has had all regular maintenance it's a fairly safe bet?

dieseldorf said:

I would exclude any small VW, pre-2004, fitted with one of thost nasty gearboxes. And they've been known to be nasty for many, many years

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dieseldorf's post is a bit confusing. He's saying don't buy a pre-2004 automatic.

Pre-2004 with a manual transmission = GOOD. In fact, people prefer the ALH motor in the 1999.5-2003 Jettas/Golfs/Beetles.

The 2004+ automatic transmissions are good, but the 2004+ cars come with the PD motor, which is known for camshaft issues.

A 1999.5-2003 A4 with a stick is ideal. 270k km still has a good amount of life left in it, if the maintenance schedule has been followed. My Golf has 450k km on it, and it still runs like a champ.

yup millage is not a factor just make sure it has 3 pedals

Ok,

So it's between a 2000 VW TDI automatic (all records) with 220000 kms on it or a 1998 VW TDI manual 5 speed with 287000 kms on it. All service records are available for both cars. The 2000 is $4200 and the 1998 is $2500. From what I've read, I'm leanig towards the '98. Thoughts?

You definately dont want an automatic tranny unless you're wallet is too heavy.

jerrydgallant said:

Ok,

So it's between a 2000 VW TDI automatic (all records) with 220000 kms on it or a 1998 VW TDI manual 5 speed with 287000 kms on it. All service records are available for both cars. The 2000 is $4200 and the 1998 is $2500. From what I've read, I'm leanig towards the '98. Thoughts?

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cant go wrong with the 98 as you can see in my sig

Jerry ..... these guys know what they are talking about. If those are your only 2 choices definitly take the 5 speed 98. If you get that auto box .... don't say we never warned you my friend.

Stay far away from the automatic, or set aside $1300 for a manual conversion if you're good with cars.

Do the new model TDI also have problems or is it to early to tell?
Wondering what I can expect from my 2010 6 speed automatic.

goleafs, Sorry to burst your bubble, but almost all new cars will have some little bugs here and there. Recalls, when they occur, often occur late. You're under "warranty" now, so you can let the dealer work on your car, but you should be careful to do some reading on here to make sure that the dealer is doing the right thing. Jiffy lubes and dealers alike will accidentally use the wrong oil, and put cars back together in a hurry to get to the next car in a hurry. Most people around here will tell you that you should probably own a few essential tools that allow you to inspect the work the dealer or quick-oil-change place just finished. This may seem paranoid, but... the very least you need to do is make sure you know the right questions to ask the dealer to keep him or her on their toes.

Between quick oil-changes and dealerships, I have had $11.00 bolts stripped, special automotive screws replaced with wood screws, oil caps left sitting on the engine, a wheel that came loose and was held on by no more than 2 lugs, a cracked injector in a 240D from overheating when a "radiator flush" gone wrong, and an unnecessary "fuel cleaning" that destroyed 13B rotary engine. These are just the first things that come to my mind. If you like your wallet, start taking an interest in your car now. Money spent on tools and manuals will be much less than money spent on major repairs from being poorly educated about your vehicle.

Stick shifts are preferable to autos on any car.

Though the DSG is looking very interesting.....

LRTDI said:

Stick shifts are preferable to autos on any car.

Though the DSG is looking very interesting.....

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The DSG has always been great, IMO. I will preach and preach about how I prefer a manual transmission, but I love driving DSG too. The downside is that it will eventually need servicing and that service will be a whole ton more expensive. The manual transmission usually needs no more than a few oil changes during it's life of 500K+ miles.

manual_tranny said:

The manual transmission usually needs no more than a few oil changes during it's life of 500K+ miles.

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Dual mass flywheels are a problem, though. You may need to do a clutch/flywheel change at some point, not for the clutch, but for the dual mass flywheel.

Or, if you're like me, you upgrade nozzles and chip, and find that your clutch is slipping and have to spend $800 to replace them. But realistically, the DMF probably would have gone at some point, and now I don't have to worry with a solid flywheel.

However, that's not an argument for manual transmissions being a poor choice. I hear that DMF's have gone out on the DSG transmissions, too, and there is no other option but to replace it with another DMF.

frugality said:

Dual mass flywheels are a problem, though. You may need to do a clutch/flywheel change at some point, not for the clutch, but for the dual mass flywheel.

Or, if you're like me, you upgrade nozzles and chip, and find that your clutch is slipping and have to spend $800 to replace them. But realistically, the DMF probably would have gone at some point, and now I don't have to worry with a solid flywheel.

However, that's not an argument for manual transmissions being a poor choice. I hear that DMF's have gone out on the DSG transmissions, too, and there is no other option but to replace it with another DMF.

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I do not expect my DMF to go out with the stock 90hp, my ginger left foot, and fairly talented engine rpm matching, if I do say so myself. You said it... you upgraded your nozzles and chip without upgrading your clutch.

BTW, there are some on the forums who believe that DMF will help certain parts of the drive-train last longer than others. I do not want to comment on that subject yet.

Accidentally stumbled upon this right after posting:

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/246360/1655737.aspx

"I have a sachs smf on my allard spec bora tdi and my god its a pain in the arse,lol the noise is a joke. i,m ashamed to lift my clutch pedal up at meets etc, it sounds like the relese bearing but louder. BUT i do have to run it as i,m pushing a proven 230bhp threw my box. But just try and drive someones be4 u buy as its horride.

Oh yea i,ve also got problems with my gearbox now, and apparentley the garage that i use www.autobarn.co.uk said the flywheel has caused the box to shoot it self."

Now, unfortunately the only current prudent and obvious solutions to this problem is to get a beefier 6-speed transmission from a VR-6. High HP cars need clutches that are rated to higher HP levels, but don't forget also new gearboxes, (once pushed too far...?)

manual_tranny said:

I do not expect my DMF to go out with the stock 90hp, my ginger left foot, and fairly talented engine rpm matching, if I do say so myself. You said it... you upgraded your nozzles and chip without upgrading your clutch.

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1) Yes, I found that I had the crappy Sachs clutch that doesn't hold much torque and not the nice Luk clutch that does, but that has nothing to do with the DMF.

2) Even when Marty (jetAAH) replaced my clutch/flywheel, he said there was already a fair amount of play. This was after ~180k of 90hp and good rev-matching.