Is there a MAP Sensor replacement "How to"? and other questions

tenban

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Location
Winston Salem, NC
TDI
2001 Jetta
I have been searching for a "How to" to replace the MAP Sensor...can anyone out there provide a link or explain how to do it...not even sure where it is. My 01 Jetta seems to be in limp mode...I am changing (after reading the Diagnosing and Fixing Limp Mode Thread) all vacuum lines, the N75, the MAF, and the MAR connector (since the red plastic inside of the MAF connector has crumbled into a 100 pieces...if anyone knows how to change the MAF connector that info would be useful as well. Hopefully replacing all of these things will bring my Jetta's power back to life...if these replacements don't fix the problem then I guess it is off to the mechanic.

Thanks for any help provided!
 

jasonTDI

TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Apr 26, 2001
Location
Oregon, WI
TDI
20' RAM 3500 CCLB dually HO/Aisan. 2019 Cherokee 2.0T
Is the actuator on the turbo functioning? I'd bet money on that first.

You don't say where you are at so I'll guess somewhere with winter? Is there a belly pan? Without one the actuator and a lot of parts get blasted.
 

Corsair

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2003
Location
Weedsport, New York
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS TDI 5M
What is meant by "seems to be in limp mode" ?
Please offer some background info and description of what you're experiencing. People on this forum often go to great lengths to help, once they know...
 

tenban

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Location
Winston Salem, NC
TDI
2001 Jetta
More info...hope this provides enough

Thanks Corsair...you are right I did not provide enough info in this post...I started a thread earlier, but not sure I worded it correctly did not get much feedback so maybe this will be better.:)

First off, I appreciate any and all help...tdiclub is where I turn to when I have issues and have had nothing but good luck...so many people taking their time to help!:)

I have lost all pulling power...with it floored it will barely move...first thought was the MAF unplugged it and it runs a little better...good enough to go get the codes pulled...the codes below are with the MAF unplugged! I purchased a new MAF at Advance Auto...it looked different than the one I had...connected it and it ran much worse so I returned it and bought some MAF Sensor Cleaner...took apart my MAF sprayed it down with cleaner and it seemed better but still lagged very badly...unplugged it again and the car pulled much better but no where near normal. Could it still be a bad MAF. Also need to tell you that the MAF wiring harnesses red clip supports inside of the connector has crumbled into many pieces...could this cause a problem still seems to plug in ok but not sure if the red plastic thing has a specific purpose...also notice the turbo is not coming on...if the MAF is bad does it stop the turbo from working properly?

When I crank the car you cannot tell anything is wrong it sits at idle perfectly...then if you rev the engine it starts a kind of jump/sputtering at around 2000 rpm...like I said it runs better if the MAF is unplugged and much worse with it plugged in and I can tell that the turbo is not engaging either way.

As I said I have ordered new vacuum hose to replace all of it, a new MAF, a new MAF Connector, and a new N75. Wondering if I should also replace the MAP Sensor and actuator but don't know how to check either?

P1619 Manufacturer Control Auxiliary Input Output
P0245 Turbo Sup Wastegate Solenoid A Low
P1441 Manufacturer Control Auxiliary Emissions Control
P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction
P0102 MAF Curcuit Low Input
 
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